There is a donate button on the front-page i.e. volvo300mania.com but not one on the forum itself. I did donate something before I was made redundant, arf!! It doesn't automatically mean that you come-up as "V3M-Donor" on the forum, though!! I think that goes back to when there was a whip-round to s...

If the cold-start injector had jammed open, the mixture may be too rich to start from hot ;-?

Not an injection person, sorry!

When you do the swap you will be able to check the strut cups. Chances are one or both will need repairing - Dai does this too. My preference is for originality, rather than lowering, etc, but that's partly because mine are driven along a boggy track, or at least they were before we had to stay at h...

Hello, great looking car. I have just got new springs and damper inserts from Ebay and local spares shops but I am sure Dai at classicswede can advise.

Well, try as I might I couldn't find any fine-tipped tweezers either at home or in the shops and with everything going a bit pandemic, none of this is going to get any easier. I could swear I had a spare set of watch-makers tweezers, but I must have left them at work when I was made redundant, arf! ...

Well, tried to remove the brass screw and found it wouldn't come out and neither could I get the engine to do one of its blow-backs through the carb which usually pop the screw out. All a bit stuck on that one. Efforts to remove one of the old rubber O-rings from a spare pin also failed with the rub...

The brass screw had blown-out again, but it was easy to find. The idling seems pretty-good today. Current thinking is that the rubber O-ring on it is too big to let it screw in properly so the plan is try one of the old ones, if it can be teased-off without breaking.

Had it running perfectly again today (900 rpm) but soon as I try to drive it, it stalls as soon as my foot comes off the accelerator pedal. Wonder if something mechanical is sticking.

Yo! Found it under the steering rack on the plastic under-engine shield. Re-adjusted everything and had it running great but overdid it and lost everything, so back to a car that won't idle at all. Will try again soon.

I realised that I should have followed the other tuning advice on the MAC-page so I set the screw tab-stop and the plastic nut adjustment. The car then seemed to idle more smoothly, but after adjusting the slow-running and the CO, it would not tick-over at less than 1100 rpm. After leaving it idling...

Adjusted the float height to 34mm (+/- not much) and it made no difference at all.





Help needed! No idea what's wrong still. The rubber O-ring on the brass screw is a bit big which makes it difficult to adjust the CO.

Duhhhh, should've adjusted the float height.



Real numpty here.



viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15141&p=190946&hili ... nt#p190946

Epic work. If the bearing works, I'm sure its still awesome.

After all, a good old one is better than a cr*p new one.

;-0

New Malden today.

Great project!!

For info, I had a look at ways to automatically un-blur the images in your browser and posted about it here:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17735&p=194821#p194821

They do seem to work for the most commonly-used browsers.