Silly question but you haven't mentioned it so here goes. Have you checked the wheel bearings? Both front and rear. Hopefully its a front one cos they're easy to change but if its a rear one then its a PITA, When I had a rear wheel bearing go it had a knocking/vibration but only at certain speeds, a...

Its caused by the gearbox linkages and shift forks getting worn and play in the lever, you shovel it left to get reverse so the lights come on fine, then the stick wobbles right so the lights go off again, adjusting the switch position will probably prevent you getting 1st and 2nd gear properly. Its...

Bit late but pics! http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8020/7482398156_fd83edc814.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7246/7482400526_ab8262bbf4.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/7482403448_89efffef2c.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8004/7482405230_914d88c9b5.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8012/74...

I've never been brave/strong enough to just pull the injectors out of the manifold in one go. I've always unclipped them off the fuel rail first and then pulled them out of the manifold individually.

Yeah, the gaskets are exactly the same but the pump itself is different.

Just to clarify, ALL engines in Volvo 300s ARE interference and will break things if the timing belt goes. Genuine Volvo timing belts are available for under 20 quid and last time I checked were actually cheaper than the aftermarket ones from a motor factor. Technique and method for changing for a 3...

Looks good but I believe our Mac has been set up as the supplier for Klokkenholm who actually makes those parts, and he'll be able to supply more reliably and for less money

I have all of those, apart from Crediton, unless that's the Nessy fixing video.

However, if you've got the original WMV or AVI files of Taunton, Stondon and Leuven that would be much better, I've got re-encoded MPGs which aren't as clean.

Sorry, can't do that, they're not mine. They'll only be available at the BKV.

I've trawled through my archives and I've got footage of drifting, some footage from meets and repair trips, santa pod meets etc etc etc, Quite a lot of it is from a few years back so won't be of the highest resolution or quality, digital video having come on leaps and bounds in the last couple of y...

Came across this one a bit late. Nasty damage, but boy you were lucky. I've seen mega damage done by roos, to much bigger cars and trucks with roo bars and everything. You guys in Aus are much more likely to hit roos than us Brits are to hit deer, badgers foxes etc. You do see some carnage and roadk...

There's loads of friction in the clutch area. If its not kept very level you'll never budge it. Much easier to remove the gearbox from the rear of the torque tube first which gives you a lot more space to winkle the prop out of the clutch. Once its out don't press the clutch pedal else you'll lose t...

I hope you found it OK. From what you describe it looks as though you're looking on the wrong side of the engine. All the injection sensors are on the inlet side. They don't have any spade terminals, they're all weatherproof connections (Well slightly more weatherproof than spade terminals anyway :D...

Klokkerholm in Denmark is the company that makes the repair panels for the 300 series apparently, but I've a vague memory of there being a dutch label last time I ordered a panel from Hadrian. Might just be my memory playing tricks on me though. They rather helpfully always used to leave the origina...

Relays are under the steering column in RHD cars, can be a PITA to find which one is not working though, but it might well be just dirty connections to the fusebox right underneath at the firewall.