You 360 onwers seen this?

Post by **Stavros** » 04 Jul 2007 06:00 pm

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLVO-240-Turbo-M ... dZViewItem

wonder if it clears the engine mount ok? low mount (isnt it?) but higher than standard, and further back, which MAY mean its too close to brake master cyl?

very very cool regardless.

make SURE if you do get it you fit a brace taking the weight of the turbo, everyone buys stainless manifolds, dont brace em, then start winging and crying when they crack in a week...

Post by **SteveP** » 04 Jul 2007 06:11 pm

Thought it was quite interesting too, but it makes the turbo sit quite high.. not sure if it'd clear the bonnet... I've heard of manifolds like this being of dubious quality, discussed on turbobricks - not sure if its the same one though?

Very good point about the bracing!

Post by **volvorsport** » 04 Jul 2007 06:58 pm

yes ,its the same one , i have one with the flange upside down - its not been fully tested , and i rewelded the flange the correct way on .

theres other issues with fitting it - piping ,exhaust, oil lines etc , which all vere away from std .

anyway , ive yet to try it on a 360 .

Post by **Stavros** » 04 Jul 2007 07:01 pm

most of the people bang on about dubious quality either have never seen what they moaning about and just recycling info they heard on the net, or have never had experience a strainless tubular turbo manifold before.

thats not to say these things are an amazing gift from god, but most peoples complaints are that they crack, and i challenge them to show me any similar manifold that doesnt when used hard and not braced etc.

xs-power cheapo stuff or HKS ripoff expensive stuff, stainless manifolds crack incredibly easy unless you know how to deal with em.

and hell, for that sort of price, its hard to justify moaning isnt it? lol.

about it clearing bonnet, well the turbo still sits under the manifold (doesnt it?), and im sure the pipes dont bend up above cam cover height, so im sure thats not a prob, but the distance back im thinking may be a prob on RHD cars.

need to try it on a car to find out really...

Post by **Chris_C** » 04 Jul 2007 07:28 pm

Hmmm... which bit is best for bracing? The end flange on the manifold, or the turbo housing itself?

Post by **Ali** » 05 Jul 2007 11:47 am

Really the fitting isn't a problem as if you've got a 360 turbo then its all custom anyway, only paid £9 for my oil feed lol. I can't see anything stopping you from flipping the manifold upside down though as I reckon your right Stav and it'd hit the brake stuff. Its already fairly tight for room for the downpipe there and the exit on the manifold currently comes out in the centre. If you put it upside down though and the manifold piping cleared the inner wing and engine mount, should bring it out in a fairly nice location.

I'd be tempted to try it but its not really worth it for me as I can't really run anymore boost so pointless changing to a T3 or whatever, might be good for a B230et/ft conversion though and make some mega power

Post by **SteveP** » 05 Jul 2007 02:03 pm

Here's a picture of the manifold installation being mocked up on a 940, you can see my concerns on space for use on a 360...

Post by **Fuse** » 07 Jul 2007 11:13 am

Stavros wrote: about it clearing bonnet, well the turbo still sits under the manifold (doesnt it?), and im sure the pipes dont bend up above cam cover height, so im sure thats not a prob, but the distance back im thinking may be a prob on RHD cars.

Originally, used in 240, those SS-Autochrome/XS-Power manifolds are meant to place the turbo up and front, though you can't use it like that without re-welding the flange because the flange blocks the spark plugs.

http://www.j2mediagroup.com/john/SSautochrome09.jpg
http://www.j2mediagroup.com/john/SSautochrome10.jpg
http://www.j2mediagroup.com/john/SSautochrome11.jpg

If you flip the whole manifold upside down, there's no way it would fit in in 240 like that.

http://www.j2mediagroup.com/john/SSautochrome13.jpg
http://www.j2mediagroup.com/john/SSautochrome14.jpg

Pics taken from this topic http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=43433

Post by **volvorsport** » 07 Jul 2007 12:16 pm

you wont cure the oil feed / return issues for £9 properly - if you want your engine to last and not spew oil everywhere .

i had two manifolds professionally rewelded with the flanges the correct way , and they still warped . it would be best to use a mild steel flange .

i would sell my other one - but im not going to until i sort the flange issue .

that said i am dealing with a company to make them , so if anybody wants to lend me a donor car .

Post by **foggyjames** » 17 Jul 2007 01:19 am

Bump!

They're fairly well known for being pretty terrible. Sure you could fix it yourself (and various people have), or pay someone else to do it, but I'd rather spend the extra money and have something which was screwed together properly in the first place. Most people brace the flanges together, then beef up the welds (welds would be the polite thing to call them), and finally get the flanged machined flat. Probably a cheap way to get a header if you've got mates who are fabricators & machinists! We're just going to get a Proturbo one from Finland.

Ali...Andy will kill me for saying this, but I'm pretty sure you could run more boost if you wanted to

A couple of guys in the states were running 15psi on 10:1 B23s without any grief. Just be careful with the timing. Even taking it up to 10psi would give you a nice additional kick. Low comp would be better, but then 9.2:1 is hardly high.

cheers

James

Post by **Ali** » 17 Jul 2007 06:02 pm

The fact is gets a hammering and i'm worried about blowing it up is just one factor, the other more worrying factor being the clutch lol, although I suppose the extra however much power isn't going to make that much difference when its already taking 60bhp more than it should or something!

Post by **foggyjames** » 17 Jul 2007 07:06 pm

I dunno mate...you can reach that threshold pretty quickly

They're fair points, well made

cheers

James