Various, various and more various!
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griffo20022
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by griffo20022 » 18 Sep 2007 07:42 am
Well got up this morning jumped in the car to head off the work and turned the key, car just kept going over and over and over. Anyway it finally started but had to keep my foot on the accelerator for it to hold the revs until it managed to hold on it's own. Once the car had started and held it's revs without cutting out it ran as if nothing ever happened and I can guess when I finish work later with the weather being a bit warmer it'll start no problem.
Now i'm assuming because it's on the bike carbs and it being cold maybe the carbs need setting up taking into consideration of the winter weather creeping in??
Is there anything else I should check over first before making this assumption??
If it's any relevance the engines a clio 1.8 16v with yamaha R1 bike carbs and R1 fuel pump.
Thanks guys

'90 340 1.4 Vince!
'94 BMW 325i Saloon
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Chris_C
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by Chris_C » 18 Sep 2007 09:23 am
Not having a clue about either clio engines or bike bits, I'm guessing the carbs have an auto choke? Has that been connected up in any way? Carbs need some method of blocking the venturi's when cold, but I've never looked at a multi arrangement on a bike, only ever played with a 100cc 2stroke and a 250
Symptoms sound chokey at least!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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Jason B
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by Jason B » 18 Sep 2007 12:49 pm
yeah, similar problem to mine (without the cool bike carbs

) probably a poorly adjusted choke mechanism. best thing to do is find out how the choke mechanism for those carbs works i.e. auto or manual and go from there
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bogbasic
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by bogbasic » 20 Sep 2007 08:59 pm
How about leaking carb-to-inlet-manifold gaskets? Replacing these can make a huge difference to poor starting and you can use the old ones as templates to cut out your own. Sometimes just tightening the carb bolts makes a difference, too. Cheers, bogbasic.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
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classicswede
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by classicswede » 21 Sep 2007 01:09 pm
Do you even have a fast idle for starting?
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griffo20022
- Posts: 576
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by griffo20022 » 21 Sep 2007 01:47 pm
I'm not too sure yet, I havent really delved into this much atm, I'm gonna get me a choke kit off egay first and fit that and see how it goes, should irradicate the problem

Still got the other little jobs to do first lol, should be fitting the dipstick tube this weekend

Then hopefully mac should be back from a great holiday and get in touch with me about the diff gasket yay lol!
'90 340 1.4 Vince!
'94 BMW 325i Saloon
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foggyjames
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by foggyjames » 22 Sep 2007 04:26 am
Only downdraft carbs usually have a choke flap Chris - all DCOE-type carbs use an enrichment valve...I'm pretty sure the 240's Pierburg (i.e. SU-style) carb was the same, and I'm betting the bike carbs will do, too.
I suspect something has gone wrong. The car would always have been tricky to start if it didn't have cold-start enrichment. Temperature doesn't make that much difference. I think the cold start enrichment system - whatever that might consist of - is favourite.
cheers
James