another econometer question
Ahhh, theres the problem.. you won't have one!!
Can you still get to the GLT? It'll be behind the front bumper, need to take the bumper covers off, then the four bolts, and then bumper off and its in the drivers side foghorn thingy. Else they are very common on 400's. (infact on any with an info center)
As for the econometer, it shouldn't matter whether the econ or re-circ is first, check the re-circ flap moves when the engine is running, and then just systematically go through looking for blockages.
Can you still get to the GLT? It'll be behind the front bumper, need to take the bumper covers off, then the four bolts, and then bumper off and its in the drivers side foghorn thingy. Else they are very common on 400's. (infact on any with an info center)
As for the econometer, it shouldn't matter whether the econ or re-circ is first, check the re-circ flap moves when the engine is running, and then just systematically go through looking for blockages.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
the 360's bonnet won't open and theres a car right against its bumper. so i'll post a demand. does the sensor just connect onto a wire thats already there or would it need a wire run to it?
where the hose ends up in the head theres a metal pipe that points straight up. it looks like something has been snapped off. otherwise if i suck on the hose connected to the meter the needle moves. and the rest of the hose between the carb and head looks alright.
Edit: is it worth replacing the whole hose from the carb to the head? it does look quite bad. the hole mentioned before fits onto the filter i discovered.
where the hose ends up in the head theres a metal pipe that points straight up. it looks like something has been snapped off. otherwise if i suck on the hose connected to the meter the needle moves. and the rest of the hose between the carb and head looks alright.
Edit: is it worth replacing the whole hose from the carb to the head? it does look quite bad. the hole mentioned before fits onto the filter i discovered.
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
The wires to connect to the temp sensor are in different places for different models oddly. A GLT has a taped up roll with the correct plug to fit the sensor rolled up under the air filter box. However I believe 340's need two lengths of wire and the correct plug, then this will plug into the mulitplug behind the dash. It may all be rolled up under the dash, but I cannot be sure of that.
Pete
Pete
ok i'll have a look for something there. what colour wires am i looking for?
There are two pictures here http://photobox.tiscali.co.uk/album/1508652 one of what i think the sensor is and one of the hose that runs between the carb and head. can anyone see any problems. i know most of it has tape round it but it seems to come apart in my hands........[/url]
There are two pictures here http://photobox.tiscali.co.uk/album/1508652 one of what i think the sensor is and one of the hose that runs between the carb and head. can anyone see any problems. i know most of it has tape round it but it seems to come apart in my hands........[/url]
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
Indeed, that looks like the VDO sensor you need, which will clip into a hole in the bumper mounting bracket. As for the hose for the econ gauge, my knowledge only really applies to the 2.0 litre at the moment! And looking at the pic, which is a bit small to see, I can't be sure I'm afraid. Someone else will be able to help you hopefully on that one.
Pete
Pete
i cut the gauze off to see if that helped and i can, now, with a few breaths get the needle round almost to its fully extent. however the engine can't seem to match this and the needle sits about 3/4 of the way around (from the white end) and moves too the full red extent when its floored. i was wondering if my 1.4 doesn't produce enough off a vacuum for a gauge i took from a 2 litre?
The temperature sensor links to a brown and a whiet/black stripy wire from under the steering wheel correct? if so does it matter which lugs they connect to on the sensor? and if they are backwards will the readout simply be the reverse?
thanks for the identification too
The temperature sensor links to a brown and a whiet/black stripy wire from under the steering wheel correct? if so does it matter which lugs they connect to on the sensor? and if they are backwards will the readout simply be the reverse?
thanks for the identification too
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
In theory I'd imagine the wires would work either way round, as I don't think the plug was fitted specially one way or anything. Indeed, those should be the wires, it's odd how they differ slightly, I seem to remember GLT's have no stripey wire, it's just black or something!
The gauge normally only ever goes completely to the left hand extent when you suddenly back off, and still in gear let the car slow down, say into a corner or slowing down, then gradulally it will work it's way back to the normal sitting position. The gauges weren't engine specific, (or at least to the best of my knowledge) so it does sound like the pipework connected to the gauge may have a problem.
Pete
The gauge normally only ever goes completely to the left hand extent when you suddenly back off, and still in gear let the car slow down, say into a corner or slowing down, then gradulally it will work it's way back to the normal sitting position. The gauges weren't engine specific, (or at least to the best of my knowledge) so it does sound like the pipework connected to the gauge may have a problem.
Pete
it could be the pipework. the hose from the meter to the t piece is new. i replaced the main hose yesterday but because the re-circ and econ use a smaller hose and there wasn't a proper splicer available i cut the smaller hose at an angle and pushed it into the main hose and bound it with insulating tape.
i did manage to snap off the hose reciever on the head and this is now held on totally with tape but seems to be reasonable tight. i think i'll just take the econometer off, without getting more parts that neither local car supplies stores have its going to be a dead weight, as such or at least having a gauge thats always in the red is a little disconcerting.....
i did manage to snap off the hose reciever on the head and this is now held on totally with tape but seems to be reasonable tight. i think i'll just take the econometer off, without getting more parts that neither local car supplies stores have its going to be a dead weight, as such or at least having a gauge thats always in the red is a little disconcerting.....
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
What about fitting a boost gauge?
It would work only from 0 to -1bar scale but it is often 1/4 of dial anyway and would be ready for turbo install too
If someone is planning to install fuel pressure gauge, then I have good news. Oil pressure gauge works well, also better as no fuel lines to cockpit needed
It would work only from 0 to -1bar scale but it is often 1/4 of dial anyway and would be ready for turbo install too

If someone is planning to install fuel pressure gauge, then I have good news. Oil pressure gauge works well, also better as no fuel lines to cockpit needed

i'm more puzzled now by the ambient temp gauge than the econ which i think is too much hassle. i've traced the wires from the mutli plug to the panel and i've come up with wires 7 and 12 being the ones that supply the signal. these are yellow and brown/black stripy. upon looking under the bonnet for these wires i can only find the yellow one but that goes straight into the fuse box and the browna dn black one is no where to be seen.
there is, just hanging off and requireing a spade connector, a black and white stripy wire that doesn't go any where. but i don't know how it would plug into the two pronged sensor if thats what it does.....
any thoughts?
there is, just hanging off and requireing a spade connector, a black and white stripy wire that doesn't go any where. but i don't know how it would plug into the two pronged sensor if thats what it does.....
any thoughts?
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK
i've got the connect that goes into the sensor and using a multimeter in several 'climates' found the sensor still works (i presume it works on changing resistance). It still has two wires coming out but theres only a single connector going in. the bundle of wires that goes to the lights is severaly taped up so i might cut into that to see whats hidden inside but other wise i really don't know.
i've run a number of tests over the terminals and multi plugs and the black/white wire does run to the temeprature gauge but also half the other wires on the plug.....
i've run a number of tests over the terminals and multi plugs and the black/white wire does run to the temeprature gauge but also half the other wires on the plug.....
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
sorry pete and everyone else, i believe my total inability to count has pissed you all around. my loom never had the wires in the first place and now i've put them in (in a rather shambolic fashion) the gauge happily tells me that its +21 degrees, which a thermometer confirms.
thanks again for you help.
thanks again for you help.
1986 1.4DL - 147,000 - C746 VRT
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 3083
- Joined: 11 Oct 2004 07:12 pm
- Location: Bucks, UK