can anyone understand this thread?

Various, various and more various!
340customizer
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Post by 340customizer » 26 Jan 2005 03:28 pm

No problem! :D

I just had a sm58 moment.
I have my car parkt in a garage a few km´s away.
So its isn´t efected to much in this extra "salty" winter condision.
Its been there for some 2 weeks and it needs a bit off tapping with the trottle to start.
After a couple off taps the pedal sundely dropt to the ground.
I broke the cable sm49 .

O well i just install a new one next friday. sm63

The biggest prob. i have now is that this Gr.N camshaft ist doing its work werry well for my Volvo.
Its a bit sad but after the Dyno run i've concluded that iam even better off with the std. camshaft.
The reason is mianly that the TRQ isnt enoug on the freeway.
Thats 106 nm with 4400 rpm.
Compare that to the std. 110 nm at 2500 rpm and you'll see my prob.

First i did'nt have any problems because i was still driving with cvt.
And with 4500 rpm at 120 km/u i had no probs.
But now with the 5 speed my rpm at 120 km/u has gone to 3200 rpm.
With leaves my ith a measely 96 nm trq.
Causing me to put the pedal to the metal to keep driving at that speed.
On the other hand driving at 140 km/u is much better.
But i don't want to sponsor our shitty goverment over here.
And my biggest prob with this camshaft is that my excaust man. ist good enoug.
You can compare it to a marraton runner who can breathe in normaly but has to exhale to a straw.
And a custom exsaust is unbeliefable expencive here in Holland.


So my plan is this.
I have another nice engine in my barn.
Has run only 66.000 km and has a new cill.head.
So i replace my current engine with this std. one.
When i've got my car running agian i take my engine apart agian and replace my Gr.N cam with a std. cam.
And fit an GTT oilsump becoase i don't trust the old one the engine rebuilder has used.
The oilpan seals had to be replaced anyway because those sm2 ^**^(^*&%* guys that have rebuild that engine twice screwd it up agian.

It won't be as special when i'am finisht prob. with factory spec. performance.
But it will be a much better engine for my volvo. 8)


Greets
Andries Hofstra
Killin tupperware cars by the stoplights.

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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 26 Jan 2005 09:02 pm

Oh, you have been unlucky there :(

Torque is indeed needed at 5. gear, might be that 5. gear is unusable at 100kph even with standard camshaft, but maybe enough at 120kph.

My 360 has around 2200rpm at 80kph and 5. gear and it feels bit weak there, even it has over 110nm torque at 2200rpm, I think 'sm14'

I do have little similar experiences from car repair shops, even it costs a lot to repair car still I need to fix it myself because they have made some faults :(

Our speedlimits are mostly 80 and 70kph now at winter, summer time there is also 100kph. Motorways are 100 at winter and 120 at summer, but there is very few of them. At winter 5. gear is rarely needed.

Maybe small turbo to 1,4l engine would make wider torque, but then there is ton of other probelms.
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 26 Jan 2005 09:05 pm

Or just drive in 4th gear? I agree, that does suck a bit :(

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

340customizer
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Post by 340customizer » 27 Jan 2005 12:15 am

Or i could searth on for a companie who could fix my excaust.
Or try to weld myself? sm68
Just have to find anywhone in my town who has a pipe bender.

Iam not shure about some things though.

Is an exsaust man. that go's from 4-2-1 beter for trq or kw's or was it an 4-1 type?
And from what i heard the ideel distance from the outlet-valve to the place where they get togetter is 80 cm's?
And the ideel thinknes off the rest of the exsaust piping 50 mm?
This is what i heard from a guy who is rallying with Daf's.
And isn't it better to modify the outlet port to?


Greets
Andries
Killin tupperware cars by the stoplights.

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 27 Jan 2005 05:36 pm

Now you're into some seriously specialist stuff...I'd get yourself a book!

Welding your own would be fun!

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 27 Jan 2005 05:48 pm

4-1 is better for torque from what I have read, but also primary pipe lenght affects to torque. However I have no first hand knownledge, only what I have been reading and listening from Gurus :)
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huskyracer
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Post by huskyracer » 27 Jan 2005 07:32 pm

Hate to disagree, but I thought that 4into 1 gave best peak power and 4-2-1 gave best torque. on the subject of manifold design, primary pipe length is used to 'tune' shock waves in the pipes to assist in the scavenging of exhaust gasses from the cylinder. This will only work at certain engine speeds over a narrow RPM range. The effects are fairly small too. I think that making your own manifold is a good plan. For good torque, use fairly small diameter primary pipes, keeping the lengths as equal as possible, dont worry about the actual pipe length, it REALY wont have a big effect. Bring cylinders 2&3 and 1&4 together into 2 short collectors and use two fairly long secondary pipes slightly larger in diameter than the primary pipes. bring these together in another collector The rest of the exhaust should be made from approx 70mm tube


Alternatively can you change the cam timing slightly? advancing the cam in relation to the crankshaft by a few degrees should drop peak torque back down the rev range
Hope this helps,
Iain :340:

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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 27 Jan 2005 07:51 pm

YES! Of course...what was wrong with my brain! Get hold of an adjustable cam gear.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 27 Jan 2005 09:24 pm

Oh, sorry, I have perhaps mixed them in my memory :(

How many degrees would be one timing belt teeth? When making more compression ratio it causes camsaft timing to change and some are compensating that with installing timing belt one teeth off from mark.
I don't know why they are not getting adjustable cam gear, that should be much better idea.
Volvo 360GL -88 -under restoration-
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Volvo 240 Diesel -83 -undecided-
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foggyjames
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Post by foggyjames » 27 Jan 2005 10:50 pm

You could go for a whole tooth, but that's probably a little extreme! Judging by the 16v head I have here, 1 tooth is about 10 degrees.

I'm not sure how available adjustable cam gears are for the 1.4, but its worth checking - especially in Renault 5 quarters.

cheers

James
VOC 300-series Register Keeper
'89 740 Turbo Intercooler
'88 360 Turbo Intercooler
'85 360 GLT
'81 343 GLS R-Sport
'79 343 DL
'70 164
...and some modern FWD nonsense to get me to work...

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bodejodel
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Post by bodejodel » 27 Jan 2005 10:59 pm

Just put a :360: 2 litre engine in that car... might be a h*ll of a job to fit it in... but I think you are not afraid of a little work...
Jeroen
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5lab
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Post by 5lab » 27 Jan 2005 11:00 pm

1.4 doesnt have a timing belt. you could probably nick a cam out of a hotter '5 thou.
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bodejodel
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Post by bodejodel » 27 Jan 2005 11:01 pm

1.4 has a timing chain...
Dang it...! you beat me to it...
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SteveP
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Post by SteveP » 27 Jan 2005 11:07 pm

bodejodel wrote:Just put a :360: 2 litre engine in that car... might be a h*ll of a job to fit it in... but I think you are not afraid of a little work...
Might as well stick something hotter if you go to that much trouble :lol:
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bodejodel
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Post by bodejodel » 27 Jan 2005 11:09 pm

ah... yaah... B230Turbo... I might buy me one of those.. I know where to find one with 145.000 km on it... But i am not gonna tell ya where it is! :wink:
Jeroen
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