Driveline noise

Various, various and more various!
Ride_on
Posts: 2262
Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: Driveline noise

Post by Ride_on » 10 Sep 2010 01:21 am

magnumpi wrote:
I had considered it to be wheel bearings, but when they went on my Beetle they never made any noise, just moved back and forth a bit when i rocked the wheel in my hand.

Would i be able to feel it if the rear bearings have gone, i mean like above, not when driving it?
You may not be able to but obviously easy to check and compare rear wheels. I think from memory my 83 one that failed was noticeably 'grindy' when rotated by hand.

Generally I would describe bearing failure as grindy rather than whiney, it should not be high frequency. You get high frequency whine when flat surfaces get rough and touch each other (like a crank bearing), bearings have balls or rollers, they only grind until they collapse, the surfaces are never stopped with reference to each other like in the crank.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

magnumpi
Posts: 1289
Joined: 05 Feb 2008 11:39 pm
Location: Surrey

Re: Driveline noise

Post by magnumpi » 17 Sep 2010 06:31 pm

I've decided, or finaly accepted that this noise is the front wheel bearings, as it is getting a lot louder now when pushing it into corners suggesting the side load is causing this.

With that in mind i will need new bearings and this is where you lot can come in.

Simple as this really, what bearing manufacturers should i use and who should i avoid, unless they are still Volvo obtainable?

Cheres gents
89 3dr 340DL in Battleship grey with Ultralights and Williams power
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?

Ride_on
Posts: 2262
Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: Driveline noise

Post by Ride_on » 17 Sep 2010 10:29 pm

Try to confirm by hand first, and also check the adjustment, but it is probably gone by now if its grinding on corners.

I heard other recommend Timkins, but as a person who is usually concerned about brand quality, I do not normally worry too much about bearings (and brake disks/drums). These are very basic technology and easy to get right, having said that fakes are much more in the press these days and people continually think up ways of ripping people off, so buy from a known 'retailer' rather than ebay confused 'private' sellers is a basic step you can take.

Its normally just the outer that is gone, but replace the track aswell. A very quick bodge if the track looks ok is the just replace the bearing (15-20 min job), of course you will need a new bearing if that fails later, but I've done it once on a car to get me going quickly, lasted a few years before scrapping anyway.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

User avatar
Chris_C
*** V3M DONOR ***
Posts: 9600
Joined: 18 Jun 2004 11:53 pm
Location: South Coast, UK

Re: Driveline noise

Post by Chris_C » 18 Sep 2010 12:22 am

If you run anything but stock wheels, Timkin. SKF and Fag are good, but Timkin just seem to have a different surface hardening process (well, so says their rep) but they really do last longer on Fake) Mac has posted up the part numbers before, get the inner and outer bearing and the oil seal. New stake nuts are still avail from Volvo for 3 quid each (yes, you do need it)

Plus, every train from the 60's can't be wrong
Image
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

Post Reply