Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

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Alanovich
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Joined: 20 Sep 2010 09:33 am
Location: Reading

Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Alanovich » 23 Sep 2010 09:01 pm

As some of you will have seen from my other threads, I became the delighted owner of a spectacular D-reg 360 GLEi SE today, 36k on the clock, one owner from new. It's immaculate.

However, it hasn't been serviced for some time according to the history, and has only covered about 2000 miles since 2002.

So, I want to do a massive service on it before winter (not that I intend to take it out on anything other than dry days) to get it running just right. I'm going to get a garage to do some of it, and I'll do some of it myself. This is the list I've got in mind, broken up between the garage and myself:

GARAGE:

Oil + filter
Fuel filter
Gearbox oil
Brake fluid
Coolant
Cambelt and tensioner
Water pump

:?: QUESTION HERE - how much labour do you think that I will be looking at for that lot? I'll get the parts and fluids myself.

ME:

Air filter
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Contact set
Spark plugs
Ignition leads

Can anyone think of anything else I might have overlooked? I intend to get everything from my local GSF - do they come recommended on price and quality of parts? I'm keen to give this 360 the best quality items (and nearest original spec as possible), so do GSF compare favourably against a main Volvo dealer in terms of price and quality?

One slight concern I have with it I have mentioned in another thread - slightly hesitant/smokey when warm/hot starting. Any thoughts out there on that?

Cheers,
Steve
7.52pm: I'm jealous. I really wish that I was a) a Fulham fan; and b) at Craven Cottage. What a night for them. The players are still on the pitch, loving it.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/football/2010 ... eague-live

MCHUDD
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Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by MCHUDD » 24 Sep 2010 10:27 pm

Hi mate.
I would also cheak all the brakes. You might not need them but for the sake
of a few quid in new shoes,pads and cylinders, you will have peace of mind.
Cheers Mark. sm4

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Hell Driver
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Location: Doncaster UK

Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Hell Driver » 24 Sep 2010 11:29 pm

I would have thought the gearbox and diff oil won't need changing at that mileage, although the oil must be pretty old! I changed them in my 340 because it had done 130,000 miles. Someone else might put me straight on the lifespan of transmission oil though. If so I'd better change my 360's oil cos thats 27 years old now :D
Water pump should be fine.
Cambelt and tensioner is a must as it's at least 8 years old!
All the other things make sense to change or check, although if it ain't broke don't fix it :lol:
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

Ride_on
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Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Ride_on » 25 Sep 2010 02:19 am

I've done alot of miles in 360s, last one 200K on the clock and some more on 940s. I would not change major components like the water pump unless they are faulty. New pattern ones may not last aswell as the original parts, never had one fail. I've never even bothered to change the tensioner.

Ignition parts also last pretty well, usually a good clean sorts them out, I would change the leads before the cap, they get chaffed and squashed by clips which causes leakage. Take out the coil and clean it all round. Use Bosch super 4 plugs and semi-synth oil.

Make sure you have proper coolant additive at a decent strength, renewing is a good idea if in doubt. Otherwise the head will suffer galvanic corrosion near No.4 leading to (usually mild) head gasket failure. It should not lose water atall. Not that big a job to DIY if you need a skim+gasket though.

Brakes, nothing more than a good inspection needed, unless there are problems obviously. Make sure the front calliper pins are sliding nicely and the boots are good. Rear wheel cylinders can leak or get sticky, ok to replace with pattern parts. Use good front pads though, a 360 uses its fronts alot. Brake fluid is worth changing if you like a bit of fast driving in the countryside. Change the flexihoses if in doubt (stiff/old/corroded), you can get a nice Goodridge metal braided set (I have a spare rear one, they gave me 2 for the back).

As to the starting problems, sounds like there is a fault somewhere it should start on the button. I have a full 360 injection kit if you need parts.

I assume this is a saloon, being a GLEi, I do love the saloons, B230FT turboing my GLE Saloon!

...And get it well rust proofed!
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

Alanovich
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Joined: 20 Sep 2010 09:33 am
Location: Reading

Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Alanovich » 25 Sep 2010 12:47 pm

Thanks all, brilliant advice.

Yes, it's a saloon, will post some pictures up early next week when I've taken some good 'uns for the insurance valuation.
7.52pm: I'm jealous. I really wish that I was a) a Fulham fan; and b) at Craven Cottage. What a night for them. The players are still on the pitch, loving it.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/football/2010 ... eague-live

Alanovich
Posts: 153
Joined: 20 Sep 2010 09:33 am
Location: Reading

Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Alanovich » 07 Oct 2010 11:00 am

Well, I'm nearly there with the servicing, and so far so good. I've managed to do the oil, coolant, air filter, spark plugs, ignition leads and distributor cap myself. I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't get the oil filter off, I just couldn't get any purchase on it even with an oil filter wrench, so I got a local garage to do it and fit the new filter for a tenner. Seems to be in a really awkard position, has anyone got any advice for getting these off with the car on axle stands?

The last things to to do are the cambelt and tensioner, fuel filters and brake fluid, and I'm going to get the garage to handle them as I don't yet have the bottle to do those jobs. I don't fancy the brake fluid change in particular, and I also don't like the idea of naffing up the fuel filter changes and getting petrol everywhere. The second filter down by the fuel pump also needs the connector hoses doing as they're getting perished. One thing I got wrong was forgetting to drain the engine block of coolant before refilling, which explained why I couldn't get the full 7 litres in the system! Ho hum, I'll do a full change again this time next year (or in the spring) and it shouldn't cause a problem.

Fitted the car with all new tyres also, just to be on the safe side, as the existing tyres looked to be starting to perish and I couldn't tell how old they were.

Other than that, one of the washer pumps is faulty, so I've routed the good one to the windscreen as I can live without the headlamp washers for the moment, and also the oil light is on the blink. Any good ideas for finding where the fault with that lies, or changing the bulb without too much effort?

Cheers,
Steve (who has now popped his servicing cherry, I think!)
7.52pm: I'm jealous. I really wish that I was a) a Fulham fan; and b) at Craven Cottage. What a night for them. The players are still on the pitch, loving it.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/football/2010 ... eague-live

volvosneverdie
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Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by volvosneverdie » 07 Oct 2010 06:10 pm

Well done dude.
Youve got a lot done yourself!
Image

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Hell Driver
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Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Hell Driver » 07 Oct 2010 07:23 pm

Ride_on wrote: I've never even bothered to change the tensioner.
Yes, if forgot, with such low mileage I'm sure the tensioner will be fine, I just changed the one on my 340 due to the high mileage. I'm glad I ordered the kit with one in cos it showed how much the old one had stiffened up, the new one was much easier to turn. My 360 won't be due for a cambelt change for 3 years and it will probably still have done less than 25,000 miles so I won't be changing the tensioner for some time (if ever!) I'm assuming the 5 year rule applies, not sure what the recommended mileage limit is on these.
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

MCHUDD
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Posts: 2537
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Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by MCHUDD » 08 Oct 2010 10:45 am

Hi mate.
The oil light might be off because whoever took the oil filter off may have knocked the
wire of the oil pressure switch. They are beside each other.
Cheers Mark. sm4

Ride_on
Posts: 2262
Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: Getting my 360 GLEi in tip top running order

Post by Ride_on » 08 Oct 2010 11:41 am

The 1.4 340 tensioner is of course completely different (not sure about the 1.7 but it just isn't Volvo), the 1.4 is a bit of tensioned rubber (oiled+chain etc) B200 tensioner is rotary, fixed (after adjustment) and self lubricating.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

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