driveshafts

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samueljon
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Joined: 30 Jun 2010 02:07 pm

driveshafts

Post by samueljon » 10 Mar 2011 01:01 pm

has anyone found a crafty way to get the drive shafts off the diff?
or just a case of loads of wd40 and a hammer to scare them out?

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Speedy88
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Location: Bristol

Re: driveshafts

Post by Speedy88 » 10 Mar 2011 01:56 pm

Breaker bar, socket converter and allen key socket end. Never failed me!
'88 340 Williams (Sold)
'85 360 GLS - Drift project (Sold)
'77 Colt Sigma
'96 940 Drift project

samueljon
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Re: driveshafts

Post by samueljon » 10 Mar 2011 01:59 pm

i thought that would be the way! nothing crafty then?

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Speedy88
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Location: Bristol

Re: driveshafts

Post by Speedy88 » 10 Mar 2011 02:13 pm

No, just make sure you hammer in the allen key bit. If it doesn't go deep enough it will round the end of the allen thread off.
'88 340 Williams (Sold)
'85 360 GLS - Drift project (Sold)
'77 Colt Sigma
'96 940 Drift project

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Chris_C
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Re: driveshafts

Post by Chris_C » 10 Mar 2011 06:36 pm

Make sure it's a socket set hex bit, not a hex key too.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

Ride_on
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Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: driveshafts

Post by Ride_on » 10 Mar 2011 07:45 pm

There are 2 type of bolt. hex bolt (newer) and allen key (older). Advice as above to clean out the allen key and use a 1/2" or 3/8" allen key socket converter. Use a 6 sided 3/8" socket for the hex ones. They will be tight.

Do the diff end first and use the breaker bar to jam the wheel studs to the ground. If you have removed the wheel end first put it back on. Then use at least a 3/8" wrench with extension and work in the wheel arch to remove the diff end.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

samueljon
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Re: driveshafts

Post by samueljon » 11 Mar 2011 09:30 am

cheers guys, so the newer ones have been converted to bolts?

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Chris_C
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Re: driveshafts

Post by Chris_C » 11 Mar 2011 01:28 pm

I don't think it's that way round, AFAIK, 360's have bolts, 340's have socket head caps screws.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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L14MNP
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Re: driveshafts

Post by L14MNP » 15 Mar 2011 01:09 am

Bolts ftw. Change to them whilst it's apart IMO. I never need anything more than a 10mm spanner and/or a 10mm socket on 1/4 drive ratchet to undo mine. Then the shaft just drops out of the drive flange.

The one's above sound tight! :lol:
STREETO WITHDRAWL
INTO BURNOUTSsince1982

Ride_on
Posts: 2262
Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: driveshafts

Post by Ride_on » 17 Mar 2011 04:17 pm

Chris_C wrote:I don't think it's that way round, AFAIK, 360's have bolts, 340's have socket head caps screws.

Ah that could be it, havn't worked on 340 CV joints for a while.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

Ride_on
Posts: 2262
Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: driveshafts

Post by Ride_on » 17 Mar 2011 04:22 pm

L14MNP wrote:Bolts ftw. Change to them whilst it's apart IMO. I never need anything more than a 10mm spanner and/or a 10mm socket on 1/4 drive ratchet to undo mine. Then the shaft just drops out of the drive flange.

The one's above sound tight! :lol:
I completely ruined a Teng 1/4" swivel bar on CV bolts (twisted then broke at the square drive), there were really tight! !/2" sockets are too thick to fit with the rubber boot. 3/8" long sockets work the best for me.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

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volvodspec
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Re: driveshafts

Post by volvodspec » 17 Mar 2011 07:03 pm

Ride_on wrote: 3/8" long sockets work the best for me.
+1

samueljon
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Re: driveshafts

Post by samueljon » 21 Mar 2011 01:14 pm

its so annoying! as you said the rubber boot gets in the way! bolts would be so much easier!!

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Chris_C
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Re: driveshafts

Post by Chris_C » 21 Mar 2011 02:53 pm

Jack the car up so the axel drops away, then undo the top bolts whilst someone stands on the brakes. Then rotate the shaft and do the bottom ones when they get to the top.

Just remember the brakes only act on one side of the shaft, so inboard side undone first.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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volvodspec
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Location: Netherlands.
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Re: driveshafts

Post by volvodspec » 21 Mar 2011 06:03 pm

why let someone step on the brakes?

use one hand to block the wheel and the other on the bolts :)

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