actually, a few pics of top bottom and sides of the unit would suffice
There was a post about standard fit radios a week or so back that may shed a litle light, but I cant find it - I also cant find anything on the cr3001 on google
mine had one of these fitted, theres a special tool (looks like a bit of bent metal) you cant remove it without this ... well its possible but likley you will end up cracking/scratching something......
i have still got the tool (yours for price of a pint)
also have origonal instruction manual for this radio which tells you how to remove/refit dont realy know how to show you the instructions tho ( no scanner )
maybe someone else on here also has it and can scan it to show you?
Is this an OE radio? try pulling the knobs off (titter) as I have heard you can release them with a HU removal key (wire/allen keys/butter knives/etc) from there. Or Just stick your fingers in the tape deck and yank it out.
Still feeling like a little bitch? Try getting a hand up behind it and pushing it out. It will come out with one of these methods. I can't see it putting up much of a fight like a cage around an aftermarket din HU and they aren't bolted in behind the dash like a lot of 90's+ Jap [OMG no mention of JDM y0) stuff. Just have a bit of a look and all shall be revealed.
From memory these decks are also held by a couple of screws either side about 2/3rd of the way back from the front of the unit. They certainly have threaded brackets there for that purpose.
I managed it, I did take the nuts off the knobs
its just held by spring clips, no "security" just pull it out.
Fitted a new (butchered from kenwood stereo) drive belt and all is good, didn't damage anything.
Those radios are NOT meant to be rapaired.. had to cut part of the case away to get at the belts.
Working A1 now!
for future reference the CR 3001 - CR-3001 comes out just by removing the knobs, then the nuts behind them, then just push the easily accessible clips together and pull!
Yes, it is, but the alternative was buying a soldering iron. Only cut through 2 spot welds and 1 screw hole - If and when I get a soldering Iron i'll "weld" it back .
I used a piece of thin steel wire bent into a hook to thread the belt "remotely" through the gap I created between the circuit board and the tape mech - akin to keyhole surgery. pretty proud of it!
its not a precise instrument - though its got fair fidelity and a throbbing 3WRMS or so.. maybe 2 watts at the speakers
just had a thought of modding it with some modern internals, just use the original tape and radio but fit a modern amp from 99p faulty 45w x4 cd off ebay... will have to buy an Iron then.
if there's a way to steal the variable cap from LW and wire in a basic FM receiver.. make the LW button say FM or HF/UHF it could be a worthwhile project. RAD!
Still never managed to find original equipment rear speakers.
Ah, hacking away at the case is permitted if you don't have a soldering iron. Certainly a feature of decks for a long time is bending over case tabs and soldering them to pads on the board.
Don't waste your time modding it. If you like OEM (from an original / asthetic / anti-theft point of view), then get a more upmarket Volvo bit of kit. Usually they have some sort of output socket for a separate amp and another sometimes for an equaliser (which is useful to tap into for a 3.5mm input for a MP3 player or similar)
I would have thought the CR-300x models were 6W a channel?
i'll have to have a look.. for all three reasons - is there a name for this slot type> do any other marques-makes fit/is the slot used in other volvos?
It's V300 from MY 83, and V700. Models to look out for are CR-101 (later called CR-4061) or CR-201 (later called CR-4041)
Here's some 1980s Volvo radio pron.
Just admire the 1980s no-nonsense layout and cutting edge "microprocessor tuning system". It's pretty good for an OEM set (and made by Mitsubishi as were a lot of Volvo radios, bar the odd Alpine and Philips decks)
Later cars would have a DIN slot adapter and a regular DIN E (single DIN) unit (e.g VC-608 or similar)
edit to add: You don't need a soldering iron or a hacksaw to change the belts on those decks either.
Hi all.
Love this radio thing. I have an origional mk1 radio cassette
that i know longer use. The cassette goes in long ways and you tune it
useing the buttons. It is a great piece of kit.
Cheers Mark.