Humph, sometimes I hate fixing cars

Post by **pettaw** » 17 Nov 2005 07:16 pm

Snapped a bolt getting the rusty front crossmember out. Sods law the snapped stud is in the box section of the chassis so no getting anything onto it. I managed to move it with heat and an easy-out but it ain't going nowhere now.

Probably will have to get a welder to cut out the part of the box section where the snapped stud is and weld in a new bit, hopefully without distorting anything.

Humph!:)

Post by **340GLT** » 17 Nov 2005 07:23 pm

Unlucky mate sorry to hear that, If its not protruding could you drill it out?
Cheers Adam

Post by **5lab** » 17 Nov 2005 07:30 pm

i'd either drill it out, or (my favoured method) get a dremel and put a line right thru the middle of the snapped face. voila, you have a screw

Post by **pettaw** » 17 Nov 2005 07:50 pm

I drilled most of it out before getting the easy out on it. Was and still is too far recessed to drill/cut a slot in it, and I don't have a Dremel. The most annoying thing is that the damn thing actually moved so instead of being 3mm recessed into the hole its almost flush, but its not going anywhere now.

Post by **classicswede** » 19 Nov 2005 05:00 pm

The best thing to do is centre punch the rouned off bolt.
Then you will be able to drill a hole through and use a stud extractor to remove it.

Dai

Post by **pettaw** » 20 Nov 2005 08:11 am

That's exactly what I did Dai, unfortunately cos it was Loctited in it moved but only a couple of turns before stopping completely, even with lots and lots of heat.

In the end the guy cut that part of the box section out and welded in a new bit with a new nut. He did a great job though, neat welds and by the time the welds were ground down and I Dinitrol'd it you can't see the join. I zinc primered the piece before he welded it in, maybe because of the cold weather it hadn't dried properly but it did like to catch fire:) Nevermind, I re-primered after welding and sprayed so much Dinitrol into the box section it came out of the drain holes, so hopefully its well enough rust protected.

Any tips on re-aligning the front crossmember? I'm guessing it needs to be right to keep the camber settings correct.

Post by **classicswede** » 20 Nov 2005 01:47 pm

There is not a lot of play in them so just let it find its own location.
It could pay to get the wheel alighnment checked but if its out there's not much you can do. I wish volvo had mede them adjustable like other models.

Dai