What is resistance of aux air valve?

Post by **jtbo** » 23 Mar 2006 12:54 pm

I mesured mine and got between 47-48 ohms, Haynes is not telling this information so has anyone measured one?

I know that my aux air valve is not working properly, it is just that testing in different temps will show correct behaviour, but it takes long time to valve to get shut, I'm assuming that heating is not working properly. Resistance would tell if it is heater unit that is failed.

Post by **pettaw** » 23 Mar 2006 04:28 pm

I'll let you know. Jani are you sure its getting a 12V supply?

Post by **jtbo** » 23 Mar 2006 05:34 pm

pettaw wrote:I'll let you know. Jani are you sure its getting a 12V supply?

Yes, I'm sure, it is taking power from fuel pump, I did even measure 12V was present on aux air side of wires, I think those wires are only 30cm as my fuel pump is attached to intake manifold.

Thx from helping with this

I looked a bit of aux air valve, I think that I need to drill a hole to get it disassembled, there is pin sock or what that is called holding connector and internals at place. Maybe there is just some connection troubles inside of it.

This and that fuel gauge have annoyed me quite a bit, fuel gauge had never worked properly, now that is ok.

Post by **pettaw** » 23 Mar 2006 07:08 pm

Jani what trouble are you actually getting? Is it not opening or not closing properly?

Post by **jtbo** » 23 Mar 2006 07:17 pm

pettaw wrote:Jani what trouble are you actually getting? Is it not opening or not closing properly?

It is opening and it is closing fully, but time it takes to close is really too long, if I start car and start driving normally, I can drive 100km and still it is idling around 1500rpm, but when car is not moving it closes slowly maybe 10-15 minutes until it idles normal rpm.

So it won't heat up enough and only reason that I can think of for this is heater element, but before I drill it pieces I would like to verify that resistance is wrong as if heater element is broken it should be shown in changed resistance, I believe.

Valve 'flap?' is moving fine when I tested to move it with screwdriver so it is not sticky or anything like that.

Difficult to test that because putting +12V to it inside of house is problem, outside is again so cold that I'm not sure if heater element is able to produce enough heat to warm that unit so that frozen hands could feel it, also my custom hoses are PITA to remove and install

Post by **pettaw** » 23 Mar 2006 07:30 pm

Ahh right, yeah it sounds like the heater isn't working properly.

Hold on.

Lemme get that resistance for you.

Post by **pettaw** » 23 Mar 2006 07:38 pm

resistance of heater is 45 ohms, so yours sounds OK.

Before you drill it apart try adjusting the thingy on the top of it. There's a small bolt on a slidy slot and if you undo it you can open and close the slider slightly. Might be worth closing it a bit if its taking its time to close completely.

Post by **jtbo** » 23 Mar 2006 07:41 pm

pettaw wrote:resistance of heater is 45 ohms, so yours sounds OK.

Before you drill it apart try adjusting the thingy on the top of it. There's a small bolt on a slidy slot and if you undo it you can open and close the slider slightly. Might be worth closing it a bit if its taking its time to close completely.

I have already adjusted that, it is as much closed as it would go.

So need to broke that valve next, new used maybe around 20-30€ so not very expensive, but still that is money, weeks food or so.

Thx from measuring resistance