So. I was clearing out the wire mess where once had been a radio...
Naturally, a shortcut occured and some sparkles flew. There should be a broken fuse, but I didn't find one when I tried to examine the fuse box.
Could someone please tell, which fuse is connected to the radio circuit?
I would also be interested about the color codes of the wires that connect to the radio... What color means what etc.

Oh... I almost forgot. When I turn power on, the park, battery and oil warning lights won't light. And when I turn the light switch to position 2, only parking lights are burning.

Thanks

The fuse for the radio is number 12, also fuses the brake lights and the max speed on the blower, so if those are working then all is well

On UK cars, with the ignition off and the lighting switch on position 2, you don't get headlights.

I found recently that the handbrake warning light and the oil pressure warning lights are linked - if the oil pressure warning light contact goes open-circuit, the handbrake light won't illuminate.

cheers

James

Ok, I've got the radio installed and working. There's one problem though:
When I turn the power off for more than a minute, the radio loses it's memory (radio stations etc.).
So does anyone know, how the wires for the radio should be connected.
I've got a brand new radio and it uses ISO-connector.

Sounds like you`ve connected the radio to an ignition controlled live rather than a permanent one. The radio needs some power to hold it`s memory

You`ll need to run the power from a circuit that works even with the ignition off - for instance the cigarette lighter. Make sure you fit a suitable fuse inline!!

Will

PS. Do yourself a favour and disconnect the battery negative when doing electrical work - put it back on when you have verified all your connections.

Saves a lot of blown fuses and potential destruction of sensitive parts of your car. It`s only 12V but the current capacity of a car battery is massive.

The international 'ISO' standard is Black = Ground, Yellow = 12v permanent, Red = 12v ignition switched. In the 360 I think its Brown = GND, Green = permanent(??)....not sure about switched.

cheers

James

foggyjames wrote:The international 'ISO' standard is Black = Ground, Yellow = 12v permanent, Red = 12v ignition switched. In the 360 I think its Brown = GND, Green = permanent(??)....not sure about switched.

cheers

James

Yep... I've measured the volts with general meter(??). Brown is GND, but I can't understand what the green one is?
The radio works, when the power and memory wire are both connected to the 12v ignition line. I can't get 12v out of any other wire... If I connect the memory wire anywhere else, the radio won't work.
The green wire gives me very low voltage... 0,03V or something.

wjp01908 wrote:Sounds like you`ve connected the radio to an ignition controlled live rather than a permanent one. The radio needs some power to hold it`s memory

You`ll need to run the power from a circuit that works even with the ignition off - for instance the cigarette lighter. Make sure you fit a suitable fuse inline!!

Maybe I should save this one for professionals...

wjp01908 wrote: PS. Do yourself a favour and disconnect the battery negative when doing electrical work - put it back on when you have verified all your connections.

Saves a lot of blown fuses and potential destruction of sensitive parts of your car. It`s only 12V but the current capacity of a car battery is massive.

I know...

in my old 360 the green wire was constant pwr (i brushed it while i was earthed, a rather shocking experience), but in my current one the pink wire is constant pwr. Brown was earth on both mine.

It may be a good idea to buy a continuity tester ($15-$20) , one of the best tools you can have when it comes to the maze of wires and help you become familiar with the wiring.
What it is, is an incomplete circuit with a feature(light, buzzer) that is activated when one end is powered and the other end is earthed (forming a complete circuit). IMO a better tool than the cars wiring diagrams, cause you dont have to strain your eyes.
Any half decent Electronics stores should have them for purchase, and if you need to ask anything about them, The forum is a good spot for it.

Hate to say at this late point in the day, but might be useful for anyone else... autoleads do an adapter that takes the existing Volvo radio harness to an ISO plug, costs about a tenner, saves a lot of hassle (nothing worse than soldering behind the dash, never enough room)

Something else I always try to do when I do any wiring... try and get hold of the opposite plug to whats there and make your own adapters, never cut wires if you don't have to, it's always easier to check wiring that way, and it can all be done in the workshop instead of in the car

Juha wrote:I can't get 12v out of any other wire... If I connect the memory wire anywhere else, the radio won't work.

The 'ignition' terminal is just a trigger, and the majority of the current goes to the 'constant' terminal, hence why it doesn't work if you move the 'constant' feed. Sound rather like you have a problem there....in which case either trace the problem, or if you're lazy, run a new feed (as Will said) with a fuse-holder!

cheers

James

So...
The radio was stolen. I had it for two weeks... Another 150 euros well spent. I went to the car and the doors were unlocked. There were no traces of burglary. The radio was just ripped off....
I've still got the front panel though.
But... enough whining...

I have a problem with the brake lights. They won't lit.
The fuse is ok... What could be the problem?

I'm sorry to hear that about your radio After only 2 weeks, I would go crazy!

Concerning the brake lights, I had that problem on my ex GLT, the contactor for the brakes pedal was dead (corroded and broken), I suggest you to check that!

I did go crazy...

The wirings of the radio were damaged when the robbers ripped it off...
This caused the braking lights not to work.

That reminds me, my drivers side indicator has a bad ground...must go fix!

cheers

James