I had also often broken engine mountings. If I remember correctly, It was always in the same time as broken props.
Maybe I have a bigger problem somewhere in my car that is responsible for all the broken props.
I planed to invest some money in ma car in the near future. Now this makes me thoughtful. Maybe I should look for another Volvo 340 and keep mine just for spare parts.
I could make some sharp pictures with my old SLR camera and scan the images if that could help you to evaluate the position.
uprated prop
Please excuse my bad English, but I am not sure if I correctly understand "everything is lined up" and "Line out your engine". Do you mean that my engine is not in line with my gearbox (in terms of a "geometric line")?
I have read this thread http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=6188 and the part about refitting the propshaft:
Are new props still available? And how much do they cost?
Thank you.
I have read this thread http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... php?t=6188 and the part about refitting the propshaft:
Why is it important to tighten the bolts to 37Nm? I don't use a torque wrench, I tighten them until the cleavage on the clamps is closed.When refitting the propshaft DO NOT GREASE the splines and ensure the clamp bolts are tightened to 37Nm.
Are new props still available? And how much do they cost?
Thank you.
I want to apologize if I sounded rough. I would never ever intentionally harm my little Volvo.
I just bought the cheapest torque-wrench that I could find and measured my hand-tightening technique. And I was not so hard as I thought. It was about 40-41 Nm. And I think the cleavage on the clamps closes because there are almost no splines on the prop, but that endured for the last 30 tkm. And I think if the rubber did not damaged that would also endure for the next 30 tkm (but it's just my feeling).
I will now upgrade my front engine mountings from parts of a y. 1987 v340 (my is y. 1984). I have everything that I need for that, including the newer cross member. This newer engine mountings looks stronger then my current.
And I have heard that new props are still available. And they cost about 500 euro. I will now save my money for a new one in the hope that it will be the last one I need.
I just bought the cheapest torque-wrench that I could find and measured my hand-tightening technique. And I was not so hard as I thought. It was about 40-41 Nm. And I think the cleavage on the clamps closes because there are almost no splines on the prop, but that endured for the last 30 tkm. And I think if the rubber did not damaged that would also endure for the next 30 tkm (but it's just my feeling).
I will now upgrade my front engine mountings from parts of a y. 1987 v340 (my is y. 1984). I have everything that I need for that, including the newer cross member. This newer engine mountings looks stronger then my current.
And I have heard that new props are still available. And they cost about 500 euro. I will now save my money for a new one in the hope that it will be the last one I need.
Hi all,
I have measured my power transmission and it really was not in line. But the problem was on the gearbox side. The gearbox shaft missed the clutch output shaft for about 3-4 cm.
To solve this i drilled a new set of holes for the bolts that hold the gearbox. this way I moved the front side of the gearbox about 1 cm to the left, and now it seems to be OK.
And here is a pic of my damaged rubber of the prop. This breaking line builds a full ring.
I have measured my power transmission and it really was not in line. But the problem was on the gearbox side. The gearbox shaft missed the clutch output shaft for about 3-4 cm.
To solve this i drilled a new set of holes for the bolts that hold the gearbox. this way I moved the front side of the gearbox about 1 cm to the left, and now it seems to be OK.
And here is a pic of my damaged rubber of the prop. This breaking line builds a full ring.