Erm......Just testing.....340GLT wrote:Stock one is ALuminium Andy not Steel!! lol
Cheers Adam
uprated prop
Hi,
My fourth (or was it the third one?? I have stopped counting after two) propshaft is actually dying . Now I am thinking of trying to build an uprated one.
I have a good driveshaft lying around, and I was thinking of converting it to a propshaft.
Is this a stupid idea? Can a driveshaft and the CV joints (from a volvo 340) take so high rpm?
My plan is to take the flanges (pivots) from a broken propshaft, the flanges (connection of the driveshaft on the wheel-side). To cut a driveshaft in half, and lengthen it with a pipe made of steel. And to weld everything together. And voila, an uprated propshaft .
Could this work?
EDIT:
some visualisation:
I would try to fit this two flanges together:
This should be possible:
Then I would get this flanges on the gearbox and clutch output shaft:
And finally I would fit in a lengthened driveshaft as the new uprated propshaft:
----
And please excuse my bad English.
My fourth (or was it the third one?? I have stopped counting after two) propshaft is actually dying . Now I am thinking of trying to build an uprated one.
I have a good driveshaft lying around, and I was thinking of converting it to a propshaft.
Is this a stupid idea? Can a driveshaft and the CV joints (from a volvo 340) take so high rpm?
My plan is to take the flanges (pivots) from a broken propshaft, the flanges (connection of the driveshaft on the wheel-side). To cut a driveshaft in half, and lengthen it with a pipe made of steel. And to weld everything together. And voila, an uprated propshaft .
Could this work?
EDIT:
some visualisation:
I would try to fit this two flanges together:
This should be possible:
Then I would get this flanges on the gearbox and clutch output shaft:
And finally I would fit in a lengthened driveshaft as the new uprated propshaft:
----
And please excuse my bad English.
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
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The idea of welding on the flanges could work. If going that I would use a prop shaft from a 240 or similar RWD car and use the UJ
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
I saw a ring-formed breaking line on the rubber of the prop (on both sides). I look often for them, and I noted this breaking line about a month or two ago. I don't have a good digicam to make a photo of this. But this breaking line is on the same position on the rubber where my last three props got broken.Bazboy wrote:How do you know its dying? cause it would be great to know what to listen out for, cause when mine went it left me stranded in the middle of no where and the AA took ages to find me. lol
Now I also have heavy vibrations over 3000 rpm. I am pretty sure it is the prop.
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- Joined: 24 Jan 2007 07:53 pm
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- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 5461
- Joined: 25 Apr 2005 06:52 pm
- Location: Anglesey North Wales
- Contact:
What part of the props went? The rubber or the splines on the end?
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
That was in 80tkm and 12 years.pistonpen paultje wrote:Line out your engine @ first...3 or 4 propshafts with normal usage should not be possible...
She had sometimes to pull weighty trailer. (that was my father).
In the near past I towed off some VWs of my friends to the next garage.
And many curvy mountain roads here in Bosnia where I live. Many "load change", many accelerations and braking (including some unintended drifts). And many bad roads.
I think the engine is in good condition (now 170tkm on the clock), pulls pretty well, runs smooth (a little shaky in the warm-up phase).
Was always the rubber.classicswede wrote:What part of the props went? The rubber or the splines on the end?
Had two times problems with loosing some splines (on the clutch output shaft), but that was just after a change of the prop. I think the mechanic did something wrong. I tightened the prop a little and had never problems with that again.
I had always used props. Not new ones.Jason B wrote:I would definitely check how you are fitting them and that everything is lined up. I know that they are the weaker parts of the driveline but I haven't heard of someone destroying many under normal usage at standard power.
I think I do everything correctly. I tighten them just a little stronger, but not to strong (have no torque wrench).