360glt cutting out randomly.

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dalahare
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360glt cutting out randomly.

Post by dalahare » 22 Dec 2007 03:41 am

I've got a 360glt that left me stranded for the first time yeterday, driving along it just died, would crank over but not fire up, it's a well serviced car with new leads, plugs, filters ect ect. checked all the usual things, it's getting fuel, airfilters clean, didn't apper to be getting spark at first, so I thought that was the issue, but then it started to spark, so i left it or a while whilst i went to organise a lift, i came back about 30 minutes later and it fired right up, drove off ok, but then a bit down the road it started spulttering, drove it the 200ks home today with it doing that.

The problem appears to be definately electrical, when it dies even at hwy speeds the motor cuts out, but normally you would have the dash lights come on and the tacho would still read whatever the motor is turning over at, instead even when the motor cuts out for a split second the tacho plummets. it's almost like i am turning it off with the key. so i presume i either have a loose connection somewhere, water has gotten into it (been driving in torrential rain for two days) or the renix is on the way out?


So anyone had a similar issue and what did they do to fix it.

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trabitom99
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Post by trabitom99 » 22 Dec 2007 10:28 am

I had a very similar problem a couple of years back - around the 200,000 km mark. A new Renix solved the problem for me ...

Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 22 Dec 2007 11:03 am

Check any earths or power feeds to the renix... as that supplys the signal to the tacho. I would have said fuel pump fuse, but you say fuel is getting through, and that wouldn't explain the tacho.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 22 Dec 2007 02:36 pm

Yeah tacho is what has me certain it is a electrical problem, I went up the road today to a hill near my house, pulled out the coil lead, rolled down the hill and clutched the car, tacho showed the revs even though the engine wasn't firing, so i figure if the car is cutting out due to a mechanical failure, be it fuel starvation, air leak in manifold, lack of spark due to dodgy distributor ect ect, the tacho would still show the revs, but when the car loses power the tacho dies instantly, even thought the car is in gear and still turning the motor over at the same revs.

trabitom99, did you buy a brand new renix or a 2nd hand one?

Chris, all the earths ect to the renix looks fine, but i could probably pull them apart and rub them down to get rid of corrsion anyway. not much point testing them with a multimeter or anything as 99% of the time the car runs ok, so they would probably test ok too.

I'll see what a S/H renix costs from the wreckers today, and bung it in to see if that solves the problem, but if anynone else has any suggestions in the meantime fire away.

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trabitom99
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Post by trabitom99 » 22 Dec 2007 05:32 pm

dalahare wrote:trabitom99, did you buy a brand new renix or a 2nd hand one?

I'll see what a S/H renix costs from the wreckers today, and bung it in to see if that solves the problem, but if anynone else has any suggestions in the meantime fire away.
Mine was second hand ... I'd be surprised if they were still available new.

Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 22 Dec 2007 08:52 pm

I've had something similar in the past. If it's not the fuel pump fuse, on a UK Mk3 located behind the battery on the inner wing, the terminals corrode, my problem was where on the positive battery lead, there are two spade connectors that join two more wires into the main lead. These are in a black plastic casing, which probably holds moisture and won't be helping. Mine meant that as the engine revved, it pulled the connection apart, meaning it would literally cut out. It would then crank over with no sign of starting, then if the engine shook the connection together would start again, and so on, you'd get 50 metres and hit a bump or rev the engine so it broke the connection again. Figured this out when it was idling perfectly but touched a connection and it missed a beat or two.

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 22 Dec 2007 09:15 pm

Pete, good point, Andy's had that too. That spade terminal thing on the +ve is a pain in the backside. Volvo don't do it anymore from memory, but I got a boat electrician to make me one for a pint!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 22 Dec 2007 09:24 pm

I cut the plastic cover off, cleaned the terminals up and covered it in insulating tape, no problems since!

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........

dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 23 Dec 2007 03:33 am

Here's a pic i took today, the blue circle the spade connectors i think peter is talking about, no amount of tugging or jiggling them around made the motor skip a beat, the green circle is what i think must hold the fuel pump fuse? as you can see in the smaller green circle the end of this doesn't connect to anything, it's broken off, and has been like that ever since i bought the car 2 years ago. there isn't even a fuse in it, so i have no idea what is supplying power to the fuel pump.

Image

The car only missed 3 times today in about 20ks of driving, so i think it was just moisture getting in somewhere it shouldnt be, and it's drying out now.

However i went to the wreckers anyway as my local pick-a-part had a glt in there i hadn't looked at yet, and i found so many good bits on it i couldn't help to buy up. :lol:

A renix, brand new lucas front pads, (about an inch of meat on them) 2 rear drums and liners, these look very new too and have no grooves or scoring in them at all, the drums look like they have just been machined, all the springs and clips ect for them and four fuel injectors for $84au. Bargain!

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Ronnie
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Post by Ronnie » 23 Dec 2007 09:41 am

Nice!

I think you've already established that the problem is with the renix. If I were you I'd clean up all the terminals on it including earths, cover them in grease or silicone and then hook it all back up again. I'd be surprised if it were an internal fault with the renix itself.
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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 24 Dec 2007 01:10 am

Sounds like you found some good parts, always worth grabbing spares when you can.

The fuse box for the fuel pump fuse and front fogs fuse is located within the actual inner wing on a Mk3 Uk GLT, literally right in behind the battery, probably in line with the clamp on your picture on the left of the battery. Is that an aftermarket or added clamp, as normally they are clamped at the base with a sliding piece of metal?

It might be worth checking the connections on the fuel pump relay, or seeing if there is moisture in there. That's the one you can see in the picture on the otherside of the battery (right) inline with the clamp again, just above the smaller green circle.

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........

dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 24 Dec 2007 04:35 am

Thanks Pete, but I bunged the new renix in and the problem seems to have gone away, and as a bonus the car feels more willing to rev thru the midrange. 8) even the wife picked it on her own.

If it was anything fuel related that wouldn't have explained the tacho dropping away even though the ignition is still on and the motor turning over at highway speeds? :?

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petefarrell360
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Post by petefarrell360 » 24 Dec 2007 08:54 pm

Glad the renix sorted it. At least you shouldn't have the problem over there that we get here, people swapping renix units from any 300, be it a 1.4. 1.7 or 2.0 carb or injection, making the assumption that they are all the same!

Pete
G reg 360 GLT, G reg 340 GL Variomatic, plus many more..........

pettaw
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Post by pettaw » 25 Dec 2007 05:48 am

Sorry I got to this a bit late, you appear to have sorted it but yeah, was going to suggest the Renix, glad you sorted it. The Renix feeds off the main power supply to the car although its good to check those connections beside the battery anyway as they cause all sorts of trouble if they're not secure. If the tacho jumps down to 0 then something either isn't triggering the Renix or the Renix itself is cutting out.

Its an easy trick to use if you're ever in a non-start situation. When you crank over is the tacho jumping slightly? If so you're getting a spark from the coil and if its not sparking from the plugs you need to check elsewhere ;)

Anyway, If it starts doing it again, it can sometimes be the little pickup that sits on the flywheel, if you go past that breakers again I would pick one of those up, they're very difficult to get hold of new nowadays.

Good point on the Renix codes, here on V3m we've come across quite a few that have had the wrong Renix in from garages or other 'experts' swapping Renix units over presumably trying to cure problems and ending up creating another one :?

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shimon340
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Post by shimon340 » 26 Dec 2007 03:56 am

hi there

glad you got it sorted.

Michol's 340 1.4 (which broke down on the A55 on the way back from a V3M meet) just cut out and wouldnt restart. diagnosed by the RAC (and I think Dave from V3M too) as lack of spark from the Renix output. I check out the Renix according to Volvos diagnosis checklist in the service manual and it didnt show any abnormalities. Fitting a spare Renix, the car started fine and ran well. So, I removed the coil a second time from the car's original Renix to find the coil to Renix contacts quite corroded. A clean up with some emery paper to remove the dirt and corrosion on the terminals and all was sorted - A happy running 1.4. Corrosion here had caused intermittant lumpy running too and poor cold starts.

I found a company called facet.it who make and sell new flywheel sensor leeds, distributor caps, rotor arms and coils for 300, 400s and prob 2,7, and 9s. I've found a company who import their products but havent had much luck with the home italian site with replies to emails.

I'll keep people posted here as could be useful for spares!!
Enjoy your 300s

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