servicing need some help
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- Joined: 24 Dec 2007 01:22 pm
servicing need some help
i need to service my bluline 1.7 and i would like to do it myself...... iv never done it before, i havnt got a haynes manual, its in the post.... but surely there are simple things i can do.....
what is there to do with a service????
things i can think of is:
oil change (which oil and is the bolt to release the oil easy to find?)
plugs (where are they and which ones and where to get them from?)
leads (same as above)
fuel filter (i think iv seen this some where in there)
can i get most of the above from halfrauds or car shops?
let me know if there is any more?? cam belt was done 10k ago and i wouldnt even think of touching it.
pictures would be great! or links etc. i searched on the tech section but found nothing or i wasnt searching properly
im going for a 200mile drive at the week end and id love to take her, as shes looking lonely on my drive.
thankyou for your advise
damian
what is there to do with a service????
things i can think of is:
oil change (which oil and is the bolt to release the oil easy to find?)
plugs (where are they and which ones and where to get them from?)
leads (same as above)
fuel filter (i think iv seen this some where in there)
can i get most of the above from halfrauds or car shops?
let me know if there is any more?? cam belt was done 10k ago and i wouldnt even think of touching it.
pictures would be great! or links etc. i searched on the tech section but found nothing or i wasnt searching properly
im going for a 200mile drive at the week end and id love to take her, as shes looking lonely on my drive.
thankyou for your advise
damian
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- Posts: 147
- Joined: 03 Nov 2007 05:18 pm
- Location: Chippenham
changing the air filter is allways a good idea when servicing as they get pretty gunked up. I'm not sure where it's located on the 340's but it will be in a big black plastic box, just pop the catches on the box, open it up pull out the old filter, replace with new filter and replace the lid on the box. Simple
The sump plug is located at the bottom of the engine and it's got a square cut out in it, a 3/8 drive extention fits quite nicely in it. Simply undo this and let the oil pour in to a container. It's a good idea to have the engine warm when ou do this because when the oil is warm it's thinner and will pour out quicker. When the oil has finished draining replace the sump plug (you will want to replace the copper washer on the sump plug to prevent it leaking) then remove the oil filter and let any excess oil drain in to the can. Replace the oil filter and make sure the plug and filter are tight again before topping the engine up with oil.
Plugs: Located in the cylinder head with the HT leads going to them. Pull the HT leads off (be careful not to mix them up when you remove them) and use a Spark Plug socket to undo the plugs and pull them out. Fit new plugs and tighten them then reconectt he HT leads. If you want to replace the leads just do them one at a time so you dont mix them up.
Fuel Filter: Undo the jubelee clips holding it in the fuel line, remove filter from fuel line and replace with new filter. Make a note of which way the flow goes on the new filter.
All of the stuff that you should need for a service should be available from Halfords or any motor factors. Hope this helps
The sump plug is located at the bottom of the engine and it's got a square cut out in it, a 3/8 drive extention fits quite nicely in it. Simply undo this and let the oil pour in to a container. It's a good idea to have the engine warm when ou do this because when the oil is warm it's thinner and will pour out quicker. When the oil has finished draining replace the sump plug (you will want to replace the copper washer on the sump plug to prevent it leaking) then remove the oil filter and let any excess oil drain in to the can. Replace the oil filter and make sure the plug and filter are tight again before topping the engine up with oil.
Plugs: Located in the cylinder head with the HT leads going to them. Pull the HT leads off (be careful not to mix them up when you remove them) and use a Spark Plug socket to undo the plugs and pull them out. Fit new plugs and tighten them then reconectt he HT leads. If you want to replace the leads just do them one at a time so you dont mix them up.
Fuel Filter: Undo the jubelee clips holding it in the fuel line, remove filter from fuel line and replace with new filter. Make a note of which way the flow goes on the new filter.
All of the stuff that you should need for a service should be available from Halfords or any motor factors. Hope this helps
Proud owner of a Crummy Volvo and a Ratty old 205
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Fuel filter
Fuel filter may not be held on with simple jubilee clips. Mine had some self-locking things that I could see no way of removing other than cutting them off.
Agree with the above post - get a manual, otherwise your servicing will be a bit hit-and-miss. No point, for example, changing the plugs without at least looking at the distributor.
PIJ
Agree with the above post - get a manual, otherwise your servicing will be a bit hit-and-miss. No point, for example, changing the plugs without at least looking at the distributor.
PIJ
I blame the Volvo 66 estate I had......
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with a new oneswordfish210 wrote:. Replace the oil filter.
sorry to state the obvious but I have seen people drain the oil, remove the filter , drain the filter and then stick it back on.
worth changing the distributor cap and rotor arm as well if you dont know how old they are ,
the distributor cap is the other end of the leads from the spark plug and the rotor arm is a black thing with a copper electrode you will find when you remove the cap .
the dizzy cap is either held on by spring clips or screws ( that can be a bugger to get to ) depending on model
and the rotor arm just pulls off
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A genuine Volvo one is only 7.62 from the dealer. Don't use a non-genuine one as they may damage the engine.redline wrote:with a new oneswordfish210 wrote:. Replace the oil filter.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
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you guys are stars! il crack on with oil change and oil filter monday, sounds simple enough... i watched my mate do it to his corsa b and another mate to his fiesta turbo and bmw. i was reading up on here, 15w40 is best oil as its a old car, new oils could damage engine due to the engine not being modern? (or have i opened and can of worms?)
but thankyou again!
but thankyou again!
Doesn't need doing very often, but have a look and see what state it's in. On a 1.7 it's in the big round black thing on the very top of the engine. There are a few clips around the edge to undo, and a small nut in the middle to remove. M10 perhaps. Then the lid just lifts off (the thread of the rod which the nut is on can catch of the edge of the hole in the lid, so lift the lid carefully)swordfish210 wrote:changing the air filter is allways a good idea when servicing as they get pretty gunked up. I'm not sure where it's located on the 340's but it will be in a big black plastic box, just pop the catches on the box, open it up pull out the old filter, replace with new filter and replace the lid on the box. Simple
Yours doesn't need doing very often as you don't drive anywhere Airfilter and dizzy cap/arm get done every 12months on mine!
Johns right, only ever a dealer filter, they have a useful non return valve in them. Oil I use magnetec 15W/40, it's perfect for your engine.
Johns right, only ever a dealer filter, they have a useful non return valve in them. Oil I use magnetec 15W/40, it's perfect for your engine.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Air filter every year, hmm.
I wish I'd seen what the old one looked like when we had it replaced a while back. After looking through the history she hadn't had one for a long time so we decided to get a new one when in for a service. The mechanic said later that the old looked rather bad There was a real difference in performance afterwards, she pulled away a lot faster
I wish I'd seen what the old one looked like when we had it replaced a while back. After looking through the history she hadn't had one for a long time so we decided to get a new one when in for a service. The mechanic said later that the old looked rather bad There was a real difference in performance afterwards, she pulled away a lot faster
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Do not forget to replace teh copper sump plug washer.
Also another point to not is there is a white plastic disc behind the dizzy cap that needs replacing as well. The kits I buy come complete with this cap and rotor arm.
Also another point to not is there is a white plastic disc behind the dizzy cap that needs replacing as well. The kits I buy come complete with this cap and rotor arm.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/