Does it exists ?

A mate in a Sierra just add a washer in the front arm and adding castor easily ! Now the steering returns by itself, more like a BMW feeling or something...

Is something that I miss a bit in the 360... There is something similar for our Volvos ?

Thanks !!

It does return any way doesent it i mean by its self meh 340 does.

maybe your wheels are just toooo wide



Cheers
will

IF you look at the front suspension of the volvo 360, you'll notice the tension rods going towards the rear of the car (bar mounted diagonally on the control arm) There it goes through a bracket (which is usually extremely rusted and worth replacing if that is the case) with a pair of rubber bushings on each side. You could add washers behind the front bushing to push the wheel forward, adding more caster. Havent tried this myself, but it might be worth a shot, because not only does it improve self centering of the steering (which I dont care about unless I choose to go drifting), but it also adds dynamic camber, which is a usefull thing for sporty driving.

Well... This is what I think first, but I think what make the castor is the control arm, not the tension rod... In the Sierra, the control arm make the function of tension rod too.

Here is a pic of Haynes book. Let's post your opinions



Greetz from Spain !


PD: Maybe geometries rolling so low not work properly and the steering don't return itself... Or yes, maybe the wide wheels, hehe

You are mistaking the names of the parts I think (or perhaps I am).
The control arm is the big arm that is mounted to the crossmember, and which holds the bottom end of the strut in place.

By itself, this controlarm has very little stiffness in the horizontal direction.
To accomplish a more rigid assembly, there is the tension rod (someone correct me if I got this name wrong). This is the metal bar in the middle of your picture, mounted to the controlarm with 2 bolts.

As you can see, the far end is mounted through a hole using a bushing on each side. If you add washers to the controlarm side, it will push the controlarm forward. I can imagine this having negative effects on the life of the controlarm bushing, but who cares.

On a 340, you might end up with trouble due to the way the stabiliser bar is mounted, you will put more stress on the little link bars. A later model 360 however does not share this problem as it has balljointed links.
Also, the top end of the strut is not made to tilt much, so overdoing the caster might be bad for your shocks/top mounts.

Not a cheap way but the best way is to fit the adjustable stut tops. Setting the camber to about zero is about best. The strut tops are often the main reason for poor steering on 300's

classicswede wrote:Not a cheap way but the best way is to fit the adjustable stut tops. Setting the camber to about zero is about best. The strut tops are often the main reason for poor steering on 300's

Where do get adjustable strut tops?

Compare to other cars i've drinven, mine 340 does have a return steering a lot.

The volvo 300 does have a lot castor compared to other cars.

I really don't like the amount of tyre contact under lots of lock though. The tyres appear to be running on their edges!

Jason B wrote:I really don't like the amount of tyre contact under lots of lock though. The tyres appear to be running on their edges!

Thats true! My front tires has worn edges

I'm definitely going to look into this at some point as I'm sure it can be much improved. I'd like to try and look into creating a setup that creates more contact patch during turn-in - time to get those books on suspension out

I can't rember who I sold a pair to now. I'm sure there are pictures of them somewhere on the forum