A 360 with B230ET engine and few mods. I would imagine that it is hugely fast (compared to standard and many new hot hatches) because with those few mods even 740 is properly fast for a big car. 0-100 km/h about 7 seconds 80-120 Km/h between 4,2-4,9 secsSteveP wrote:The thing is, 300's are actually quite light as it is... 1100kg ish for a 360 is hardly heavy for a 2 litre/2.3 litre/turbo conversion etc. 200bhp would go a LONG way in a 360 imo.
360 GLT Tuning Advice
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1990 Volvo 360 GLi Waiting inspiration.
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1987 Volvo 360 GLi Being restored.
1986 Volvo 740 Turbo Sold, but not forgotten.
Some valid points raised indeed, I do feel removing sound deadin is important for max weight reduction...that stuff is incredibly heavy due to is density. However...I want to drive this car, so im gonna leave the sound deading in it. I can easily lose extra weight via seat replacement and unbolting the back seats and dropping the spare wheel for a can of tyre weld. If the 360 seats are anything like 480 ones (The front seats anyway...back seats will be nowt) they weight a good 30/40kg each easy....2 x Clubman buckets around 15kg each i recon.
1100kg is really light but I'd like to get her down to about the 1000 mark. Like lossing a passenger...and it always feels better when theres 1 less in the car
Loving the idea of going with the Megasquirt to start with...easily adapted when a Turbo/Turbo Engine is fitted...gonna look into that for sure.
Keep it coming, this is a big help.
1100kg is really light but I'd like to get her down to about the 1000 mark. Like lossing a passenger...and it always feels better when theres 1 less in the car
Loving the idea of going with the Megasquirt to start with...easily adapted when a Turbo/Turbo Engine is fitted...gonna look into that for sure.
Keep it coming, this is a big help.
To get it under 1000kg you need to remove most of the sounddeadning. Mine is 980, and then everything is gone + its got a couple of light sparco buckets..
But under the front carped there are two heavy and lose mats. They gets soaked with water and weghts alot, remove them... And another tip is to ditch the airbox and pit on a cone filter, and you will save some kg`s
But under the front carped there are two heavy and lose mats. They gets soaked with water and weghts alot, remove them... And another tip is to ditch the airbox and pit on a cone filter, and you will save some kg`s
About the sound deadening, I didn't get any notable differnece in performance. I'm renewing my sound deadening with more modern stuff and I've been driving for a month now without the floor bitumen and I can't say the acceleration would be any better than before. Engine is turboed B200E.
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Been looking into the Megasquirt and im wondering how much more ill get out of the engine with that and afew breathing mods...would i be wrong in thinking around the 125/130bhp mark?
Also...I spent an hour readying through Ali's turbo converion thread yesterday and was wondering if theres anyone thats done a dual webber on the b200e engine? Any threads with it? or even just some info on this...not up on carbs/webbers etc.
Cloud
Also...I spent an hour readying through Ali's turbo converion thread yesterday and was wondering if theres anyone thats done a dual webber on the b200e engine? Any threads with it? or even just some info on this...not up on carbs/webbers etc.
Cloud
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foggy runs twin solex addhe's on his (basically twin webers), but seriously if you are going to spend the money I would recommend megasquirt as although it may seem a tad more expensive to begin with, you can retune to any further mods yourself. (i.e. no dyno seesions at £100 a time having to retune carbs to match mods, and also easy to switch to turbo setup)
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Making the asumption that you want to use the car on twisty roads rather then down the strip number 1 priority should be with handling.
After that with fact you want to make sure of you existing engine tuning is quite simple.
Getting more power from an engine is all about breathing - getting as much air in as possible and letting it out with as little restriction as possible.
Well it is not quite that simple as there are other factors to consider in basic terms that is what you want to do.
Step one I would say is to upgrade the exhaust system to either a 2" or 2 1/4" system. That is basicaly as far as you can go without opening the engine.
Inlet wise personly I would do with a pair of 40 or 45 webber type carbs (TB's with MS or similar would be a little better but more expensive.)
It could be worth changing the ignition system to that used on 240's with K jet and use a upgraded coil for better spark.
If you are willing to spend on engine work then posrting the head and maybe bigger valves would be an option.
For better rev response you could take some weight of the flywheel.
That is a very basic skim over what is possible. If you are intersted in the subject have you considered reading any general tuning manuals?
After that with fact you want to make sure of you existing engine tuning is quite simple.
Getting more power from an engine is all about breathing - getting as much air in as possible and letting it out with as little restriction as possible.
Well it is not quite that simple as there are other factors to consider in basic terms that is what you want to do.
Step one I would say is to upgrade the exhaust system to either a 2" or 2 1/4" system. That is basicaly as far as you can go without opening the engine.
Inlet wise personly I would do with a pair of 40 or 45 webber type carbs (TB's with MS or similar would be a little better but more expensive.)
It could be worth changing the ignition system to that used on 240's with K jet and use a upgraded coil for better spark.
If you are willing to spend on engine work then posrting the head and maybe bigger valves would be an option.
For better rev response you could take some weight of the flywheel.
That is a very basic skim over what is possible. If you are intersted in the subject have you considered reading any general tuning manuals?
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Yeah, sorting the suspension will be right behind a decent set of alloys. Engine wise I like to think i know about the tuning...I understand getting the best possible flow, I just lack details, good plan i might invest in a decent tuning manual...or scourer wikipedia lol.classicswede wrote:Making the asumption that you want to use the car on twisty roads rather then down the strip number 1 priority should be with handling.
After that with fact you want to make sure of you existing engine tuning is quite simple.
Getting more power from an engine is all about breathing - getting as much air in as possible and letting it out with as little restriction as possible.
Well it is not quite that simple as there are other factors to consider in basic terms that is what you want to do.
Step one I would say is to upgrade the exhaust system to either a 2" or 2 1/4" system. That is basicaly as far as you can go without opening the engine.
Inlet wise personly I would do with a pair of 40 or 45 webber type carbs (TB's with MS or similar would be a little better but more expensive.)
It could be worth changing the ignition system to that used on 240's with K jet and use a upgraded coil for better spark.
If you are willing to spend on engine work then posrting the head and maybe bigger valves would be an option.
For better rev response you could take some weight of the flywheel.
That is a very basic skim over what is possible. If you are intersted in the subject have you considered reading any general tuning manuals?
I'm really considering a turbo upgrade like Ali's. I think ill sort the breathing out first, then sort the a Megasquirt and collect the bits needed for the conversion and spend next winter/spring in garage with her.
It is you that sells the suspension and exhaust parts innit? Expect and order in the net few months
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yep I do suspension bit etc. If you need advice feel free to ask.
Dai
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/
Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk
http://www.classicswede.com
phone/text 07824887160
Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/