360 GLT Tuning Advice
360 GLT Tuning Advice
Hi guys,
As some of you may know, I'm getting a 360 GLT soon (Thanks Sven and FJ) and I'm after some advice on Tuning.
It seams such a waste to replace the B200e with a Turbo unit when it has such low millage on it around 50k I think (Can't remember exactly.) So what else can be done? I would, If im honest with myself love a Turbo, I've trawled the Forum for info on this subject but I'm still a little lost. What EXACTLY would i need for this?
I don't plan on doing this stright away, maybe next winter. First things first anyway, a full chassis tune is my priority. Very unsafe in my opinion having that much power on stock brakes, wheels etc.
Oh, While im at it, any Advice on tuning/lightening the chassis you guys can spare, Im all ears.
Scott.
As some of you may know, I'm getting a 360 GLT soon (Thanks Sven and FJ) and I'm after some advice on Tuning.
It seams such a waste to replace the B200e with a Turbo unit when it has such low millage on it around 50k I think (Can't remember exactly.) So what else can be done? I would, If im honest with myself love a Turbo, I've trawled the Forum for info on this subject but I'm still a little lost. What EXACTLY would i need for this?
I don't plan on doing this stright away, maybe next winter. First things first anyway, a full chassis tune is my priority. Very unsafe in my opinion having that much power on stock brakes, wheels etc.
Oh, While im at it, any Advice on tuning/lightening the chassis you guys can spare, Im all ears.
Scott.
Dai(classicswede on here) can provide poly brushes, lowering springs, adjustable rear shocks and lowering blocks.. And most of the road holding will be sorted, only big problem is the front shocks who has turned out to be a problem finding stiff ones, and short shocks.
Whiteline sells 27mm swaybar, not a must have but i found it a nice upgrade together with Dai`s poly link
I have seen people on this forum has made heir own brakes, check out Adams car. I have also found Internet sites who sells upgraded disks and pads for the 300 series. I am pleased with my stock brakes
taking out the sounddeadning and unnesseary interior the car will help a lot on performance, but the car will produce more noise, but livable
For engine performance, even go the turbo way(probably cheapest). Or you can get some N/a power.. God luck with the car
Whiteline sells 27mm swaybar, not a must have but i found it a nice upgrade together with Dai`s poly link
I have seen people on this forum has made heir own brakes, check out Adams car. I have also found Internet sites who sells upgraded disks and pads for the 300 series. I am pleased with my stock brakes
taking out the sounddeadning and unnesseary interior the car will help a lot on performance, but the car will produce more noise, but livable
For engine performance, even go the turbo way(probably cheapest). Or you can get some N/a power.. God luck with the car
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buy the best tyres you can afford first! my 360 locks the wheels with absolutely no problems (on crap tyres) the only real perk of a brake upgrade is reducing fade (not that I've got that yet, and thats including regular bouts of 110+ miles of twisty lanes at decent pace!)
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power
Thanks!
Strip job is a pretty easy straight forward jobbie, but the sounddeadning can be a big job. But remove it them when its cold, and the plates fall of easy/easier. Or you can use a heat gun and a scrape, I did that. Took some hours(many)...
I installed the front carpet again for comfort, does not weight anything anyway
I have now added a full 2,5" Exhaust(still 2 silencers) and the car is too loud(For long trips) I am driving it with earplugs
Strip job is a pretty easy straight forward jobbie, but the sounddeadning can be a big job. But remove it them when its cold, and the plates fall of easy/easier. Or you can use a heat gun and a scrape, I did that. Took some hours(many)...
I installed the front carpet again for comfort, does not weight anything anyway
I have now added a full 2,5" Exhaust(still 2 silencers) and the car is too loud(For long trips) I am driving it with earplugs
Without a doubt...I ain't decided on wheels yet though. I did like the Volvo 5 spokers on my 480...either that or some 14x7" or maybe the generic 15x5" totaly unsure atm.Jason B wrote:buy the best tyres you can afford first!
Sounds like fun to me! gets me out the house away from screaming kid and missus for abit (shhh don't tell her i said that.)Nikdev wrote:Strip job is a pretty easy straight forward jobbie, but the sounddeadning can be a big job. But remove it them when its cold, and the plates fall of easy/easier. Or you can use a heat gun and a scrape, I did that. Took some hours(many)...
I installed the front carpet again for comfort, does not weight anything anyway
Origanly I was looking for a Road Rally car...but, I think ill end up building something I can cruise about in and take to track/drift days in style! I can always get a small FF as a road rallier. Cinquecento/Suzuki Alto/AWD Justy or summit else small for that.
I don't get why people get so tied up about stripping out the interior of a fast road car... it really isn't a significant enough weight difference to bother with, the sound deadening also takes ages to scrape off - don't bother, more power and you wont even notice it!
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
2008 - Volvo S60 SE Lux
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tbh, I'm very slowly preparing mine towards rally spec and after some back of cigarette packet style numbers I decided its not worth the gain. (and I'm a bit tubby so more worth me going to a gym if I was that bothered!)
I suppose psychologically it might give you a little boost to feel in a totally prepped car, but in reality one advanced driving lesson will do more for you than spending hours ripping sound deadening out imho.
I suppose psychologically it might give you a little boost to feel in a totally prepped car, but in reality one advanced driving lesson will do more for you than spending hours ripping sound deadening out imho.
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power
Its said that; Weight removing is the cheapest way of tuning.. And with our gearboxes you cant have 250-300bhp cars, therefore the weight has something to say!
But then again my car is slowly transforming to a full on drift car with a engine who uses way to much fuel for everyday driving, thats why I have done it
But then again my car is slowly transforming to a full on drift car with a engine who uses way to much fuel for everyday driving, thats why I have done it
What's better is I've seen 3 cars now with the sound deadening removed, and a sub added I'd love to know the weight of the sound deadening, it is probably more worth visiting the bog before you drive, but, for a competition car, I think it looks a lot cooler.
GLT mods... depends how far you want to go, and if it's ever going into something with tight regulations (drift is practically the only thing the MSA blue book doesn't cover) but if you are unrestricted, firstly change LE jet to programmable ECU. Megasquirt is a DIY one, and for the cost (£300), it rocks. This will take the fuel consumption to something a LOT healthier, and means you'll be able to change fuelling for whatever else you do to the engine.
Then, when pennies and time allow, hotter cam. Scour ebay, and you'll get one delivered for £50. Stick it in, tune MegaSquirt, and with that spec, Andy's car dyno'd at 140bhp.
GLT mods... depends how far you want to go, and if it's ever going into something with tight regulations (drift is practically the only thing the MSA blue book doesn't cover) but if you are unrestricted, firstly change LE jet to programmable ECU. Megasquirt is a DIY one, and for the cost (£300), it rocks. This will take the fuel consumption to something a LOT healthier, and means you'll be able to change fuelling for whatever else you do to the engine.
Then, when pennies and time allow, hotter cam. Scour ebay, and you'll get one delivered for £50. Stick it in, tune MegaSquirt, and with that spec, Andy's car dyno'd at 140bhp.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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steves right about the weight, 1100ish is nothing for a fairly big car. It depends on what you want to do, if its motorsport then check that there are no regs to comply to (I have to remain NA ).
The quick and dirty way to 200+bhp is to just grab a b230et and stick that in. Despite what people say the standard 300 drivetrain is pretty solid (stronger than the propshafts etc).
Or as chris says you can stay NA and go with megasquirt (cool) which can be transfered to any crazy schemes (turbo, super, nitrous) later on
The quick and dirty way to 200+bhp is to just grab a b230et and stick that in. Despite what people say the standard 300 drivetrain is pretty solid (stronger than the propshafts etc).
Or as chris says you can stay NA and go with megasquirt (cool) which can be transfered to any crazy schemes (turbo, super, nitrous) later on
'89 360 GLE awaiting 2.3 power
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Whatever you do to this 360 mate, make sure it's reversible as that's a reasonably rare and desirable one. I'd drive the car as standard for a while, then decide what you want to change. If you bring it to a meet I'll take ya for a spin in my 340 to show you the difference fresh suspension makes. Engine wise, you're gonna want to fit an electric fan, or it'll overheat in traffic.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr