Beware damp dizzy caps -volvo 360

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Edcase 300
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Beware damp dizzy caps -volvo 360

Post by Edcase 300 » 19 Dec 2008 11:29 am

I know you guys have heard this a million times but just as a reminder to everyone to check everything before setting out.What happened to me the other day-or rather my parents was the fault of a damp distributer.

They went to church in the car (it started fine) but when they got in the car to come back home-it wouldnt start.Luckily they lock the gates lol.
A mechanic friend of my dads went with my dad to have a look-all he did was dry out the dizzy cap.Probably with a cloth-not sure since i wasnt there-lets just say tho that the car started fine and is back in its rightful place-on the driveway lol

So really-just che stuff-espech your electrics-to avoid the strees i went through. tc and happy xmas everyone!!! :D
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Post by whiskeyonesix » 19 Dec 2008 02:19 pm

I can't imagine what was worse, a Volvo not starting or being stuck at church.......

You hear stories about these vicars....... :shock:


I've had the damp dizzy cap problem more than once - despite it being drier than a camels arse over here - drop of WD40 and a clean with a rag soon sorted it ( and the dizzy :) )
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Post by volvosneverdie » 19 Dec 2008 02:26 pm

Only bother I ever had was immediatly after I pressure washed the bay.
In retrospect, it was probably asking for trouble, but again, a dry with a j-cloth and a quick blow for luck and everything went brum again.

:oops:
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Lacking mechanics skills?

Post by workshopmanualman » 19 Dec 2008 02:57 pm

a quick blow for luck and everything went brum again
Find I'm the same after a quick blow.
I blame the Volvo 66 estate I had......

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Post by classicswede » 19 Dec 2008 07:17 pm

240's can have the same problems. The 1.7 seams to be much better with regards damp (pressure washing).
Dai

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Puddles

Post by workshopmanualman » 19 Dec 2008 08:05 pm

My 1.4 could ford anything and come out the other side no bother - which was fun in the floods when the 4x4's were left stranded. My 360 is just plain crap; somebody sneezes nearby and it runs on three cylinders.
I blame the Volvo 66 estate I had......

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Post by jtbo » 19 Dec 2008 08:09 pm

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It did run just fine, could not find any difference after replacing all those parts, I have no idea about problems you are talking about :lol:

But carb icing, that is one bad problem, got once so much ice inside carb that air could not go past it, it was completely filled with ice, needed a screwdriver to chop that ice :P
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classicswede
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Post by classicswede » 19 Dec 2008 08:10 pm

Are you running volvo leads?
Dai

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 19 Dec 2008 10:00 pm

Lol, those leads look like Bazboys on the way to the Ace Cafe. Fair play to Dan though, he had sandpaper in the boot so we could get him running again :lol: :lol:
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jtbo
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Post by jtbo » 19 Dec 2008 10:34 pm

classicswede wrote:Are you running volvo leads?
If you asked from me, then no, my leads are some common stuff they sell at places like Halfords, aftermarket silicone and some fiber.

Sorry, you have to fill me in a bit Chris, I do know that Bazboys were some kind of band and I know Ace Cafe, but I'm not familiar with that saying as urban dictionary and Google left me stranded. I would imagine they look all exploded? :D

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Chris_C
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Post by Chris_C » 19 Dec 2008 10:52 pm

Haha, nothing cryptic mate, just me assuming people know information!

Bazboy (Dan on here) convoyed up to the Ace Cafe last month with me and Foggy, and his car went down to firing on 2 cyls a few times. When we pulled the leads, they were as blue as yours!
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Post by pettaw » 22 Dec 2008 12:06 am

They go like that if the rubber perishes and damp gets into them. I remember when I first got my blue car, the leads had so much water in them that the actual sockets in the dizzy cap where filled with water. I'm amazed it even ran.

Buy the genuine dizzy caps and leads if you can find them. A cheap dizzy cap with tin contacts will burn out in a little over a year but a genuine one will last for probably 3 or 4. Check them over every couple of services and change as a precaution if the contacts look too burnt.

There should be a condensation sheild, a thin piece of plastic that sits underneath the rotor arm, that should prevent most of the moisture problems. Trouble is they're not necessary for the car to run, so I don't think most people replace them if they break up or crack when you're getting the cap or rotor arm off. Check that's in place to help avoid problems down the line.

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Post by Bazboy » 22 Dec 2008 02:27 am

Ah good old sand paper, Never leave home without it. Yea dizzy cap problems are annoying mine was only about 2/3 months old so i didnt think to check it, Good thing chris and foggy were there.

Dan
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Post by MJ » 26 Dec 2008 05:20 pm

That reminds me of someone I know who was getting a bad TV signal. They pulled the lead out of the wall socket to check it was connected properly and some water dribbled out having come all the way down from the aerial on the roof :lol:
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Post by volvosneverdie » 26 Dec 2008 06:36 pm

Me mate used to fit ariels.

he got married last week.

Wedding was ok, but the reception really was fantastic!


thank you, thank you, im here all week.
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