hi,i have new springs(shorter)and blocks coming from here,and i wondered if there is an idiots guide to draining and refilling my standard shocks(im limited in knowledge,a new driver)thanks in advance.
cheers carlyle
dampers
Re: dampers
FilthyJohn is the man to talk to on that....But share the knowledge, as I'm planning on doing it when i get back living somewhere with a garage!
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filthyjohn
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Re: dampers
It's a bit of a large job as you have to remove the front legs entirely, so good idea to do it while you're changing springs. Removal's covered pretty well in the haynes, can't remember how detailed it is about damper rebuilding though. You'll need spring compressors to get the springs off safely. Essentially there's just a big nut holding the damper in the leg, you'll see it when you remove the dust boot. You have to undo this (I used massive adjustable pliers), then you can withdraw the damper assembly. Drain the oil by tipping the strut upside down, then fill it back up (anyone know how much to put in? I think I just put loads in and let the damper displace the excess 
) with heavier oil. I used 10/40 but it's too thin still. Many report good results with 80W diff oil.
) with heavier oil. I used 10/40 but it's too thin still. Many report good results with 80W diff oil.'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr
Re: dampers
Yeah as John says it's covered quite well in the Haynes.
However they say undo the ARB, blah blah etc.
Waste of time, loosen the top nut, pop the ball joints out, undo 3 bolts holding it in, then lever the bottom suspension arm out the way, you don't need to take the ARB off.
Again as John said a big old pair of grips will get the nut undone on the shocks to drain the oil, i know because i just did mine at the weekend, but replaced mine with sealed units. See my thread in General section, shows some of the work, but not all of it.
However they say undo the ARB, blah blah etc.
Waste of time, loosen the top nut, pop the ball joints out, undo 3 bolts holding it in, then lever the bottom suspension arm out the way, you don't need to take the ARB off.
Again as John said a big old pair of grips will get the nut undone on the shocks to drain the oil, i know because i just did mine at the weekend, but replaced mine with sealed units. See my thread in General section, shows some of the work, but not all of it.
89 3dr 340DL in Battleship grey with Ultralights and Williams power
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Whats the matter with the car i'm driving can't you tell that it's out of style?
Re: dampers
Inserts are best, the original units are rubbish and don't last. I used to use Monreo Gas, very good VFM guaranteed for life, not sure if they are still available.
To get the main bolt off also helpful is to bolt the strut back into the wheel and stand on the wheel while its face down on the ground.
To get the main bolt off also helpful is to bolt the strut back into the wheel and stand on the wheel while its face down on the ground.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7