BANG!

[CWA]

Prop shaft just went

Was driving along on the motorway doing a fair old speed and just heard an almighty clunk. Few bits and bobs fell off underneath the car and gearbox obviously no longer works.

The front end of it where it mounts in at the engine side has totally come loose, like the universal joint has been ripped away. Haven't really had much of a chance to get under it yet, and my Haynes manual hasn't arrived from eBay..

Can anyone shed some light on what kind of a job this is? I hope all I need is a new shaft.. but I'm not sure how it joins to the clutch? Is it just on a splined shaft or something, or will I have to disassemble the clutch to put in a new shaft?

I was coming home from uni to try and sort my Polo out for it's MOT (keeps failing on emissions), this couldn't have happened at a worse time If anyone can help I'd appreciate it loads.

Cheers, Chris

PS - what's the best way to jack up and place the front of the car on axle stands? I have a 2ton trolley jack.. should I use the original jacking points?

[340GLT]

If you can get the car to mei have all the parts here. I have boxes and props.
Can you take a pic of the damage and i can have a look?
Oh and ignore the PM mate.
Adam

[CWA]

Got some pics up now






Am I missing that square thing that is on the rear of the shaft? I know something fell off as I saw it disappear in my rear view mirror haha, could it have been that? Is there supposed to be one on the front aswell?

[340GLT]

Yeh you need a replacement clamp, and poss a replacement prop, i see a scar in that one. I would say engine moved heavily on a gear change and pulled off spline. F?ront clamp almost definately lose.
Adam

[volvosneverdie]

Heres one I spotted earlier.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-VOLVO-340 ... _990wt_958

Hope this helps dude.

[340GLT]

I have them in stock also....
Adam

[volvosneverdie]

I have them in stock also....
Adam

oops, sorry dude.
Didnt realise.

[340GLT]

I have them in stock also....
Adam

oops, sorry dude.
Didnt realise.

Lols No worries VND

[Ride_on]

Its not a big job to change the propshaft and/or clamps, but it can be sticky and hard to remove. The clutch shaft can also be changed and comes out as a module that bolts into the clutch housing, but likely this is ok.

Probably your clamp has failed due to corrosion, or due to incorrect refitting. They must be torqued up accurately, too loose or too tight will cause later failure.

I havn't worked on a 340 for a while but the propeshaft looks a bit close to the gearbox, I was wondering how it came off. Normally they just strip the splines on the propershaft and do not disconnect. Are your engine or gearbox mounts ok? What allowed the engine and gearbox to seperate to let it off? Shouldn't there be a circlip type of thing to position it on the clutch shaft?

Jacking points should be ok for a trolley jack, but make sure your sills are not too corroded. Otherwise the front suspension crossmember is ok for jacking, but again corrision can make it weak and jacking can bend it. From memory the front crossmember/brace is ok for lifting a 1.4, but not a 2.0.

[Alanovich]

From memory the front crossmember/brace is ok for lifting a 1.4, but not a 2.0.

Glad I just read this. I was about to lift the front of my 360 2.0 with a trolley jack using the crossmember you mention.

I take it that's not a good idea? If not, where's the best place to jack a 2.0? I'm intending get some axle stands under the front jacking points (just behind the front wheels) to rest it on whilst I change the oil and coolant.

Any advice appreciated!

[filthyjohn]

Using the front crossmember right next to where the lower suspension arm (what would be the wishbone on some cars) mounts is usually ok. Also, I've not seen a particularly bad front jacking point, it seems to be the rears which fail, corrosion allows them to tear away from the inner sill.

[Ride_on]

I was actually referring to the front tube brace, if you jack a 360 up on this it will touch the engine (not much clearance). The front suspension cross member will also bend somewhat when jacked, it would be better to use it as little as possible, but I still use it on which ever side is closer to the average point where it supports the body.

Rear jacking points are common to be weak from corrosion, and fronts tend to push the floor up especially when there is a little corrosion on the sill.

Using the middle of the rear axle is also not without problems, as it puts alot of force on the rear radius arm possibly damaging the bush or possibly shifting the attachment point (adjustable), which is is important for rear toe-in (avoiding). Not that difficult to fix but no source for bushes at the moment.

Generally jacking a 360 without causing some damage is difficult, rubbery load spreaders should be used if possible but again I don't have a good solution for this.

[Alanovich]

Well I've managed to jack the 360 today, using the crossmember near to the suspension arms. It looks like it's been done there before as the crossmember was slightly bent already. So I haven't caused any further damage. I hope.

Cheers all.

[Hell Driver]

With your car the front jacking points should be ok, if it's totally rust free. The other day I changed all the wheels on my 360 (which is luckily is totally rust free as it's very low mileage, garaged etc). The first time I've ever used the official jacking points on any 300 I've owned Be careful when using a trolley jack, you can put a lot of upward force on the car very suddenly and bend parts. Probably why so many have bent box sections underneath where mechanics have just slid the jack under wherever they feel like it in the wrong place and pumped the jack up too hard pushing the metal in without letting the car rise slowly.

[L14MNP]

I jack mine up everywhere lol. Axle, all jacking points, front tubular crossmember, the subframe. It's all good.