O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Various, various and more various!
CBA
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now with Pics!

Post by CBA » 06 Apr 2010 12:09 pm

will take some new pics today, wings are on, looks like I did it with a yardbrush (red oxide reacted with paint) - but it's only temporary, sand down and put on another coat eventually... anyway they wont rust!.

Most of it will be done with red oxide primer+filler, just the end of the left sill will be welded coz it's reasonably structural., rest is cosmetic, apart from that bit on left hand suspension cup, and it is only a bit - that wants drilling out and a bit of a seam weld I think.

anyhow, it's running like a dream today, been very good on fuel - deserves a days work spent prepping the rough edges etc.

volvosneverdie
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now with Pics!

Post by volvosneverdie » 06 Apr 2010 03:58 pm

Good news dude.
Youre certainly working fast!
Image

CBA
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now with Pics!

Post by CBA » 11 Apr 2010 12:40 pm

I've thumped my doors from top to bottom, all over, no crumbling is going on apart from the back door, and that's been bogged up...
I have a feeling the rustproofing (replaced at big services) was done properly on this car for many years, the service history (missing) wherever it is is likely full of volvo stamps... when I had my wings over the cooker (ghetto) I noticed how much wax was melting on the inside, so the doors probably had the same treatment.


-------------------
I'm getting upto 50 miles on a fivers gas (95~RON, ESSO), I have a few tweaks in place to maximise economy but it's still pretty impressive! GO VOLVO... 26 Years old, the towing eye has no wear... I think it's never broken down :D ,
---> We operate a NO-SCRAP policy, we'll never put a good car down!

CBA
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by CBA » 15 May 2010 04:44 am

that paint... I need to figure out what to do, If the paint issues were accounted for I'd have a lot more confidence in completing her.
How can I get a good finish, the paint i got didnt match after all, I'm very wary of trying another colourmatch...

Ride_on
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by Ride_on » 15 May 2010 11:17 pm

If you are painting at home you need cellulose paint, not sure what red oxide is compatible with, never used it, but a good barrier primer is etch primer, then cellulose primer, then you can get the surface nice and eventually spray with a basic compressor or can. Perfect finish can also be achieved with fine wet and dry (eg 2000) with water and then T-cut.

Getting the colour right you have 2 options;
1. Take a sample of your paint to the paint supplier, they should be able to match it fairly accuracy. I used a petrol filler cap once, you might use a wing.

2. Spray the whole car, or at least spray the panel. If its metallic you need to spray the panel anyway + then use lacquer.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

CBA
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by CBA » 17 May 2010 02:54 am

Can I use Nobel gasses effectively with an arc welder, will that make clean welds, would some sort of flux help with the crappy welder? the point is the welder is free and I want to wring a good job out of it if possible...

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Speedy88
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by Speedy88 » 17 May 2010 02:31 pm

Yeah noble gases are ideal as they don't react with much. Argon or CO2 are the most widely used.
'88 340 Williams (Sold)
'85 360 GLS - Drift project (Sold)
'77 Colt Sigma
'96 940 Drift project

CBA
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by CBA » 17 May 2010 08:20 pm

I guess it will do the job, I can get a bit of gas from a mate - just deciding on whether to buy this arc welder.

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Speedy88
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by Speedy88 » 17 May 2010 08:48 pm

What is the make/model? You want to look at it's lowest ampage setting. If it's 30amps or over that you'll find it very hard to weld bodywork. Needs to be about 25 for bodywork.
'88 340 Williams (Sold)
'85 360 GLS - Drift project (Sold)
'77 Colt Sigma
'96 940 Drift project

Ride_on
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Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
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Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by Ride_on » 18 May 2010 02:08 am

I found recently that Argon+CO2 seems to create more heat (or maybe the argon keeps the heat in more). Pure CO2 seems to be easier to weld bodywork with.

CO2 also seem to last longer.

Edit - MIG of course, I would not attempt bodywork with an arc welder, but some do. Frosts do a bodywork add-on for a Arc welder, I think its just a big diode to drop the voltage a bit.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

CBA
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Joined: 24 Mar 2010 02:14 am

Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by CBA » 18 May 2010 12:49 pm

it's some cheapo catlogue welder, a 30 amp, called the 130. dunno of make, not seen it yet, but it;s defo 30amp

CBA
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Joined: 24 Mar 2010 02:14 am

Re: O.K. So I'm now restoring it - Now without Pics!

Post by CBA » 18 May 2010 01:35 pm

these strut top bearings, what are they really called, what type of bearing is it, I'm lost.

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