Just for curiosity...LH2.4 B200?

[SteveP]

An F reg B200 probably wont be LH, more likely to be Bosch Motronic (I think) or even carbed.

An LH2.4 300 would be lovely, once all the loom is there too you could fairly easily +T it using B200FT ECU's, seems to work for the guys with N/A B200F 240's in the states.

[Nimminz]

Been having a look at wiring diagrams for a '93 B200F/G LH 2.4 940. Think i've got all i need to work the wiring out.
http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volvo/9 ... 940-93.htm
and
http://www.electronikrepair.com/page7.html

Found that LH will turn on a cooling fan (pins 10+11)(i think) so that could be useful, get the heavy Viscous one off for even more MPG

The plan for now is to draw up a simplified circuit diagram while i'm away from home then at the end of the week go look round the scrap yards see what i can find.

Cheers for all the help!

[volvodspec]

as i'm startind to build a B200FT/B230FT/B230F hybrid for my 343 i also wanted to convert it to LH2.4 but changed my mind a while back; i'll be using LH bits but on a better management!

problem is:
- any V300 loom isn't compatible
- 2-series LH loom is easyest as this is a separete loom, on a 7/9 series there's a lot more going through
so either way around; you will have to be busy with adapting/modifying looms and stuff

but then to the LH story, i'd personally choose to use all the engine parts (AMM, throthle body etc) from the LH car; and then instead of LH management; make new looms for something like a Megasquirt based ECU, as LH even though its superior to original V300 system; it also has quite a lot of limitations and not thát great on fuel consumption. the narrowband wideband for example, on a good ECU you can get a wideband working there to map the mixture even more accurate and give you even better fuel consumption/power

Megasquirt based modules arent all unreliable home-made fabbed thingys anymore; you can get nice factory made ecu's with software a lot of people know of and programmable to your engine, needs and requirements. advantage to megasquirt 2 based ECU is that this can cope with the Renix flywheel pattern and if you're not tuning the ignition advance to the limit of detonation levels; then that triggerpattern is fine

[Chris_C]

No way Anjo! For you.. yes, it's not much harder, but for most people who are scared of electrics? The 240 LH loom will need power, gnd, rev counter, maybe switched ignition and oil light? Everything else will be self contained, where as squirt will require at least 20+ wires going to a custom plug.

Plus, with TunerPro, you can remap LH in the same way I do with Fenix on my valver. I agree, standalone is better when running mental stuff, but again, it's not stuff for beginners. Andy too 6+ months constantly chasing down his MS map, things like cold start are amazingly hard to get right, where as stock management has all that even if you change the main maps.

[volvodspec]

hmm, you may have a good point there but once it's done and you have a good wideband lambda feedback to the ECU there isn't that much needed to get it mapped properly, lots of experts out there that can help with it if you can't do it yourself. it's even usefull to consider for a non tuned engine as you're able to do a lot more with fuel/ignition to get a more efficient combusting engine and even better fuel consumption, just avoid a autocross tuner for the mapping as those guys can only make a full-throttle map and avoid all the important daily bits like partial load, cold start, cold idle, hot idle etc....

[foggyjames]

This makes a lot of sense, and is well worth doing. A hot-wire air mass meter and closed-loop lambda control make for much improved efficiency. A 940 2.3 turbo will return 35mpg on a motorway run at 70mph, so a B200 on LH in a 360 should easily see north of 40. A 2.3 NA swap would make more sense still, but I understand why not.

Having played with LH and MS...I would go with LH every time for this type of application. There's a little wiring pain (I'm planning to write a guide...) up front, but then it just works.

Personally, I would change the flywheel...but...the add-on trigger wheel does make a lot of sense, as changing the flywheel is a huge ballache, to be fair.
You need to swap EZK too - they work together. EZK is pretty simple, and has been used on the big Volvos for many years. It adds nice things like a knock sensor.

I've just stripped down a 940 wiring loom for Adam (13431), and it's not that bad once you have the wiring diagrams. The 240 one is easier still.

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

Thanks for the replys!

I'd rather use LH for the simple fact of cheapness, Not after mad power just a bit better MPG. If i had the cash, time etc. i'd go MS but as it is i have neither.

The loom doesn't bother me that much as i'm intending to create one from more or less scratch, I'm simplifying a wiring diagram atm. and will stick it up when its done. As i Use the car pretty much daily I'm hoping to minimise the time the car won't be running for, creating the loom seperate with all plugs etc. ready just to plug in, Make any brackets i need beforehand. I want the ECU, relays and fuses all in one place in the engine bay.

Couple more questions:
How different is the LH loom for a B200E rather than B200F/G ? I'm currently looking at B200F/G diagram. Looks like evrything will work but doesn't have the cold start injector anywhere?
Is there no way of keeping the ignition system thats in?

[Chris_C]

Just dont hook up a coil pack to the output

Normally it'd be a problem, as you can't easily share the crank sensor, but if you are having a sep trigger wheel I don't see a reason why you couldn't still have renix? EZK would be a great eventual plan, as it'd be mappable too, but I'd want to do it in stages too.

[Nimminz]

Well if i'm taking the lot out a donor car i may as well take the EZK etc. I couldn't work out how to connect up the renix to the LH ECU, although actually i think i'd prefer to keep the renix if it is do-able.

Here's my Wiring diagram that i've drawn out. Took as much of the excess stuff for A/C and Pulsair etc. off and cleaned the diagram up getting rid of connectors etc. Left the colour codes in though. Haven't double checked it or anything yet. Anyone see anything glaringly obviously wrong?


(Think it cuts a bit off on here but if you save it you can see it all)

EDIT: changed a couple of things 3/8/11 11:30
EDIT: added pin 20 EZK ground 4/8/11 15:40

from these 2:
http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volvo/9 ... 0-93-1.gif
http://www.autoelectric.ru/auto/volvo/9 ... 0-93-7.gif

Thanks!

[foggyjames]

Looks promising - I'll check it another day when it's not 1am Good work that man!

If building your own loom, just be aware (although I suspect you've already noticed, based on your diagram) that some of the cabling is co-axial or braided. It does matter...been there (with MS), done that!

You could just not connect EZK to the coil, but you need it there for the CPS input. You could build a circuit to emulate its output, I suppose....or you could just leave EZK in and go to the pub It's "better" than Renix anyway.

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

Cheers,

Yeah I've noticed and i do tend to avoid stuff that is sheilded / co-ax. In the LH syestem its only the O2 sensor which i think comes with quite a bit of cable, so it might reach pretty close to The ecu so that shouldn't be a problem. Its the EZK that has the most sheilding, Knock sensor, CPS, and one lead from that power thing. Might use the EZK loom and just make up the LH one myself.

Another thing i don't know from diagrams id the guage of the wires. some i will know of sensors all ready on the car or off wire that comes with new sensors.

Oh and can i use my current coil? only got it earlier this year

[Chris_C]

Ok, looking at that diagram I'd drop EZK in at the same time too tbh... and it'll be sooo much cheaper to just get a 2 or 900 loom dude Love that diagram though, that'd be a great resource for what to pull out of a 900 loom for someone!

[Nimminz]

yeah i'm thinking making a loom could get difficult, i just don't want unused wires and connectors so might get the loom then un-tape and remove what isn't needed. Also i want to mount it all in the engine bay and make a new fuse and relay box just to house the LH stuff.

This diagram is just for the B 200 F/G, B 230 F/FB/FD/G engines not for turbo ones. As i quite enjoyed doing it and have most of it here already, i might make one for 2.3 turbo engines for people doing that swap

Also where does the knock sensor go? i know what it does, guess there's somewhere for it to screw into in the head?

EDIT: just had a quick look and it looks pretty much the same except for the resistor thing on the injectors. think i'll draw one up for B230FT etc. as it will help me check this one

[foggyjames]

Yeah, the turbo one is very, very similar. The link to the WOT side of the TPS is missing on the turbos, too, as you can achieve full load without full throttle with a turbo.

The knock sensor screws into a threaded hole on the high up on the intake side of the block, roughly in the middle, like so...(this is a B234, hence the balance shaft, etc, but you get the idea)...



I believe Haynes quotes some of the wire gauges, but I agree that using a factory loom is a much better idea that making your own. You can, of course, cut out all the extra crap, and re-form it into something much skinnier. That's what I've done with Adam's car. You could go one step further and chop it up to get rid of the loom connectors, etc, and to form it into one big 'lump' wherever you want it.

cheers

James

[Nimminz]

Yeah removing most of the connectors would be nice too. if i can, i'll use an existing loom and thin it out.

Cheers for knock sensor pic