Diff removal help please. 85 360

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dalahare
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Diff removal help please. 85 360

Post by dalahare » 25 Jun 2006 05:52 am

Hi guys, i really need to get the diff out of my car in the next few days, but i have no idea how to, do i have to drop the gearboox out too and then split them when they are out of the car, or can the diff be removed on it's own? how do i get the driveshafts off the diff?

Thanks.

Japper
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Post by Japper » 25 Jun 2006 12:04 pm

I say get the whole gearbox out. When fixing the new diff onto the gearbox it needs to be aligned if I remeber corrrectly. The easiest way is to just put an entire new gearbox in place.
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dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 26 Jun 2006 06:17 am

Ok, i've found a place that will do exchange on the box and diff, now i've just got to get them out, noone can give me a rough idea how to do it?

no-one seems to sell the workshop manuals for these things down here.

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mac
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Post by mac » 26 Jun 2006 10:49 am

Hi,

Give me a little time - I'm working out a proceedure for you and will post with scans and diagrams.

Mac.

Japper
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Post by Japper » 26 Jun 2006 12:03 pm

-disconnect the shiftrod at the gearbox. Slide the rubber back and drive the pin out to disconnect it.

-remove the rear exhaust damper.

-disconnect the secundary driveshafts from the gearbox.

-Remove the rubber cap from the cardan(?) torque tube axle. It's located 15 cm from the gearbox, towards the engine. Unscrew the rear bolt from the coupling. You might have to twist the shaft to reach it.

-Support the gearbox with a jack. It weighs about 50kg's, you don't wanna have that bouncing on your foot...

-Unscrew the bolts supporting the gearbox. They are located next to the gearbox, going straight into the underside of the car.

-Lower the gearbox a few inches. Watch the handbrakecable, it might be in your way.

-Undo the bolts that connect the torque tube to the gearbox. This is the tricky part, some of these bolts are hard to reach.

-Remove the gearbox by sliding it backwards. Check the de-dion axle, it's a tight fit.

Fitting a new one works the same, in the opposite direction(duh).

Good luck.
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mac
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transaxle removal

Post by mac » 26 Jun 2006 12:16 pm

Ok, here we go -

I am assuming that you are replacing 'like for like' (the exchange unit is identical to the one in your own car - same year etc.) There are small differences between models. (and very big differences between 4 speed and 5 speed and between 340 and 360).

Very briefly the gearbox/diff unit is connected to the clutch by a torque tube arrangement - the drive being transmitted by a narrow 'quill' shaft inside a large hollow 'pipe' which is bolted solidly to the transaxle at the rear and the clutch bell housing at the front.

Generally the transaxle is removed as a unit complete and I think this is most probably the best option in your case. It is possible to remove just the final drive - but on 5speed 360s' after 1984 the rear suspension/axle has to be lowered to provide clearance to get the final drive out. (on 4 speed cars it is even more sensible to excange a complete transaxle as the output and intermediate shaft pre-load shims are fitted between the gearbox and final drive housings.)

If the whole transaxle is being replaced and discarded there is no real need to drain the oils (the reduction in weight would be minimal and there should be no oil loss on removal).

Raise the car at the rear on stands or ramps and ensure that it is safely supported. Chock the front wheels well (you will need to release the hand brake later).

Remove the fuel tank heat shield.
Disconnect the gear selector rod from the g/box (use punch to remove dowel pin).
unbolt the gear selector mount on the top of the torque (just below gear lever).
Release the handbrake and unclip the cables from the fuel tanks (from memory you only need to do the R/H side).
Unhook the rear exhaust mounting rubbers and lower the system (support it so as not to strain it).
Disconnect the driveshafts from the final drive flanges (6 Allen bolts each side) andtie them up out of the way.
Remove the two rubber plugs from the bottom of the torque (just in front of the g/box input) and release the two allen bolts securing the quill shaft to g/box input shaft coupling sleeve. (you will probably need to turn the shaft to align the bolt heads with the holes).
Support the transaxle unit with a trolley jack.
Unbolt the 4 bolts securing the torque tube to the g/box front casing.
Remove the 4 transaxle unit mounting nuts.
Lower the whole unit enough to clear the rear axle and slide the transaxle rearward and clear of the torque tube.
WATCH the engine position during this operation - as you lower the transaxle the engine will tilt backwards a little - make sure there is clearance under the bonnet and that you don't strain any hoses. Support the torque tube so that it is lowered only enough to remove the transaxle.

Refitting is a reverse of removal but ensure the replacement unit has oil to the correct levels in both g/box and final drive.

Pics to follow.

Mac.

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mac
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continued

Post by mac » 26 Jun 2006 12:31 pm

The following are scans from the factory 'green book' Click on the pics to enlarge.

Image

Image

Image

Image

The following is a pic of the underside.

Image

And this is a general arrangement of the torque tube etc.

Image

Does this lot help any ??

If I have left anything out - or got owt wrong - dive in anyone else !!

All the best and good luck!
Mac

dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 26 Jun 2006 02:16 pm

Thanks heaps japper and Mac, that's exactly what i was looking for.

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Post by pettaw » 26 Jun 2006 08:11 pm

just one thing Mac, don't just loosen those bolts on the clamp between the propshaft and the gearbox, you need to remove them completely as the bolt lies in a recess which jams the thing in.

Its the voice of bitter experience here, we couldn't work out why it wouldn't budge and ended up pulling the entire thing back torque tube, the whole lot :?

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mac
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Post by mac » 26 Jun 2006 08:50 pm

Agreed Pettaw - the bolt acts almost like a cotter pin. I perhaps could have worded it more clearly but the scans of the 'green book' do state that the bolt /s need to be removed. Interestingly japper also just suggested that the bolt is 'unscrewed'.
I guess one problem is covering every detail for someone who may not be as familiar with working on cars as some of us.

Mac.

Japper
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Post by Japper » 26 Jun 2006 09:05 pm

Funny, I also walked in to that problem. Why won't that f@#ing thing come off!! Ahh, the bolt must come out completely...
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dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 26 Jun 2006 11:24 pm

Is all this best done with the car supported on it's body so the suspension is extended or with the car on ramps? i figure that will make a difference or the where abouts of the axle and therefore how easily the whole thing comes out.

pettaw
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Post by pettaw » 26 Jun 2006 11:30 pm

ahhh, yes that's the other thing, you need to support the rear of the car on the suspension/rear axle so that its compressed otherwise the rear axle will be in the way and the transaxle won't drop past it :)

Also the voice of bitter experience :D

dalahare
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Post by dalahare » 02 Jul 2006 01:38 pm

Thanks a heap for the info guys, job done today, took about 3 hours all up and the only thing that i had prooblems with was getting the right hand bolt for the gear selector back in, there's just one holding it in for now, tomorrow i'll take it to a mechanic and i might be able to get it on if i can get the car up on the hoist so i have a bit more room to move around.

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mac
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Post by mac » 02 Jul 2006 02:31 pm

Hi there delahare,

Glad to have been able to help.

You will probably find it much easier to get that last gear lever bolt in with the car up on a ramp. (one obvious point though - make sure the bolt that's in is loosened when you fit the other bolt - much easier to align it.)

If you have not tackled this job before you did good to finish in 3hrs.

Well done - Mac.

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