Hello All...

[thebear54]

Have a set Mark.

This morning I retreived some service papers from the service manuals which came with the car (The damn manuals are in Swedish Rich....I don't read Swedish. This is the reason I ask so many questions. )
The clutch in my 343 is not new, it (and bearing, springs as well as the pressure plate) was installed in 2004 at 73,000 Km (the car now has 77,348 Km on the clock). The CV boots, pads and shoes were also replaced in March,2004 along with the DECLUTCHING SERVO (??) at a "bodger shop" (a non Volvo Dealer) in Paradise, California......Now I am totally confused.


John

[macplaxton]

I don't speak Dutch/German/French, but I muddle on through reading it! Manuals have plenty of pics. I learnt how to read pics building Lego toys, and a lot later, Ikea furniture.

Anyway, it's no excuse for not reading the Anjo's CVT guide (in English and Dutch) here and Mac's CVT guide both on here.

4000 kilometres is only 2500 miles, so that's relatively new in my book.

[volvomania]

I'll need to have a dig in my library to see if I have anything double that may solve the Svenska cook problem.
What ling are you after?

Indeed there is a "declutching servo" there, no 30 in the illustration.

[nvdw]

John,

For some extra reading on the clutch, there's this handy bit of information from Anjo (in Dutch): http://forum.volvo300club.nl/showthread.php?t=5593

The 'green book' (in English) can be found here: http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... =36&t=7262

Have you measured the 'clutch gap' correctly? You should do so here:



As we can't really tell if the clutch was replaced by a knowledgeable mechanic, measure the clutch gap at all three locations. All sets of shims should be of exactly the same thickness.

73kkm is not a lot for a Volvo 300 Series CVT clutch to be honest. With the correct maintenance (I think we've got the answer there) they last considerably longer.

As the bodger garage has tried to circumvent the starter inhibitor shortly after the clutch change, I can only assume that the clutch wasn't installed correctly in the first place. That can mean several things.

1) The clutch gap was set incorrectly, see above.
2) The clutch was refurbished with material that has very quickly come loose - the effect is the same as when the linings on the older Daf clutch shoes 'part ways'
3) Since the bell housing has to come off for a clutch change, along with the pressure plate, the whole assembly may have been reinstalled incorrectly.
4) Other defects.

Everything after point 1) requires the lot to be removed. If that is the case, I'd take it out completely and rebuild it according to the books. You can do so with the engine in situ, but removing the engine alltogether could be a faster and easier process.

You'll get this film diva rolling, I am sure of it!

[macplaxton]

Not forgetting mac's guide HERE

[thebear54]

Excellent ! Thanks Gents.

John

[thebear54]

Any further work on "Marilyn" may have to be put on hold for a few weeks...

Friday afternoon she will be motoring to the body shop for a partial roof replacement. The next few days involve some phone calls to locate a suitable curved bit of roof from another type of car to save us some metal banging.

I'll post photos of the "surgery" as it progresses.

John

[macplaxton]

I don't know why you just put it all on hold for a while until you just get a proper roof sorted. It's not like you haven't got other projects to keep you busy.

I've got dozens of bits accumulating here to go in this theoretical container.

[Chris_C]

It's worth looking on the VOC forum at the 244 that's just had a roof skin fitted. Uses a 3M epoxy designed for car panels so no welding needed leading to no distortion

[Speedy88]

Is that Steve? He has one of me favourite build topics. Him and the 164 he shares a garage with are 2 of the more attentive builds I've ever seen!

[mac]

Hi John,

Been following this thread with interest.

If I read things correctly, a degree of creative bogerey has taken place to try to overcome
partial or full clutch engagement at idle speed (which is correctly set ). This took place just
after a replacement clutch was fitted.

Question one - is the clutch drag present in all gear positions ?
2. - does the idle speed remain at 700-800 rpm in all gear positions ?

Obvious suspicion is that "incorrect" fitting of the new clutch is root cause - this would generally
be an adjustment fault, incorrect centre plate, failure to ensure the disengage fingers are
correctly aligned or failure to ensure the friction plate is a free sliding fit on the clutch shaft
splines. Most non Volvo/Daf mechanics measure and adjust clutch clearance between cover plate
and flywheel (not between friction lining and f/wheel) leading to just the situation you have.

Possibles - damage to c/shaft, seized spigot bearing, gear selection (operates de-clutch servo)
causing an air leak into inlet manifold with an unnoticed rise in idle speed, foreign object between
friction plate and flywheel (shim perhaps). Whatever the cause I suspect it will be simple and mechanical
(all the extra de-clutch gubbins is designed to allow engagement at high idle (1100+) during cold start
(by delaying the point at which the centrifugal cover plate engages).

Chances are it will mean a "take apart and put together properly job"

Hope to see you if you make the V3M get together (when Foggy eventually get around etc, etc,)

[thebear54]

Thanks for the insight MAC...I was hoping it would not come to a "take out" but, as you said; "a non DAF/Volvo mechanic". I am beginning to beleive this is the case here considering all the BODGING which I have removed so far.
To answer your questions;
1. only in the Park position.
2. Engine revs remains the same in all "gears" with normal fluxuation when brake and hill brake are applied.

I don't know why you just put it all on hold for a while until you just get a proper roof sorted. It's not like you haven't got other projects to keep you busy.
I've got dozens of bits accumulating here to go in this theoretical container.

That is the major problem right now Rich...too many projects going at once. I need to get some completed faster and time is at a premium. On my plate at the moment...V343, Kalmar Postal Van, Daffodil 31 and the Daffodil "HAVAS" cabrio.
The "theoretical container" may just be in the form of a DAF (not mine) going across the pond...so space will be limited. Myself, I have a Kalmar Windscreen (plus two possible DAF windscreens) and an 850cc motor to transport in there (plus your assorted bits). Getting an entire roof panel shipped over in one piece is not worth the expense. My friend at the body shop can do the entire roof job for less than $ 1,000.00.

I will still have a 343 to play with while mine is at the shop...."EFY" should be arriving here on Friday (in tow) to replace her propshaft. From what I can gather EFY will remain here at DAF Central-USA for a while.

John

[macplaxton]

That is the major problem right now Rich...too many projects going at once.

Ahh well, best I get everyone to make sure you don't add to that list.

[MCHUDD]

Hi mac.
I hope foggy does get round to it as i have my ferry tickets bought already
Cheers Mark.

[Chris_C]

Is that Steve? He has one of me favourite build topics. Him and the 164 he shares a garage with are 2 of the more attentive builds I've ever seen!

Yes, Steve and John are very very keen at what they do and do a very good job of it. They normally turn up to VOC/TBricks etc meets, great guys to talk to too, even if Steve tries to match you at the scene side of things! The panel epoxy Steve has sourced is the correct 3M high tensile stuff designed for just sticking lumps of roof to cars (part number in Steve's thread).