ABBY the Vario - "repatriated" to Ireland 24/07/2014
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ABBY the Vario - "repatriated" to Ireland 24/07/2014
Well yet another MOT has been breezed through. Although this time, I wasn't in attendance (actually I wasn't present last time either - the only 340 I've presented was VNDs). The 343 went in today in my absence and gained a pass with no advisories.
Tester was particularly impressed with the emissions figures. (I've never touched it) CO just 0.76% (4.5% max) HC 202ppm (1200ppm max). What I don't get is the approximate date of first use has been blundered again the same as last time (1/12/1992) At least I think he got the mileage right. Last test was logged at 14720 (when it was 14270). Now she's on 18431. Just emptied my wallet out yesterday for another year's tax. All to sit in the garage a fair amount of the time, but I like to a) get my mate to take it out for a run occasionally in my absence and b) have it always ready for action.
Tester was particularly impressed with the emissions figures. (I've never touched it) CO just 0.76% (4.5% max) HC 202ppm (1200ppm max). What I don't get is the approximate date of first use has been blundered again the same as last time (1/12/1992) At least I think he got the mileage right. Last test was logged at 14720 (when it was 14270). Now she's on 18431. Just emptied my wallet out yesterday for another year's tax. All to sit in the garage a fair amount of the time, but I like to a) get my mate to take it out for a run occasionally in my absence and b) have it always ready for action.
Last edited by macplaxton on 03 Aug 2014 12:46 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
Great news dude!
Another pass with flying colours.
If you ever get tired of having the poor thing languishing in garaged gloom, I'll have the tinker off yer
Another pass with flying colours.
If you ever get tired of having the poor thing languishing in garaged gloom, I'll have the tinker off yer
Last edited by volvosneverdie on 16 Jul 2010 11:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
I reckon these fictitious passes with flying colours' don't actually exist and are all a ploy to wind me upvolvosneverdie wrote:Another pass with flying colours.
Well done though MP
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
No, this one wasn't fictitious. VNDs was, it that it was pass 1.5hrs after the initial test. (emissions+bulb and a wee advisory TO GET SOME PAINT 'N' UNDERSEAL ON! ) The trick is to prepare the car for the MOT rather than chuck it in, something which I didn't need to do on this occasion as Abby despite a couple of blemishes, is like a new car.
Next tasks (probably around December) are to put the 44 & GS through a voluntary* NCT.
*Not legally required here as they were both first registered before 1.1.1980.
Next tasks (probably around December) are to put the 44 & GS through a voluntary* NCT.
*Not legally required here as they were both first registered before 1.1.1980.
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
A wee advisory!?macplaxton wrote:........and a wee advisory TO GET SOME PAINT 'N' UNDERSEAL ON! )
Try not to piddle on the floor.
Re: underseal - theres a hole in the sill (small) so theres no point undersealing it till thats welded.
So plan - get required welding done on next mot, THEN underseal everything when I KNOW its all good metal.
Is this stupidity?
(serious question)^
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
Small hole? Is that a real hole or a drain hole? Wouldn't wait until next MOT as you've got the whole of winter to make it enormous. Sort it sooner, rather than later, but either way load and loads of this before it goes waaaay bad:volvosneverdie wrote:next mot
Dintrol 3125 (60litre drum )
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
Its a real hole near the front of the sill. Was a bit of rusty grott hanging down so i pulled and snapped it off, and there it was, a wee small hole.macplaxton wrote:Small hole? Is that a real hole or a drain hole? Wouldn't wait until next MOT as you've got the whole of winter to make it enormous. Sort it sooner, rather than later, but either way load and loads of this before it goes waaaay bad:volvosneverdie wrote:next mot
I'll see if I can snag a pic.
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
Please do (which side by the way?)volvosneverdie wrote:I'll see if I can snag a pic.
Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
If it's any consolation VND I've got a rather large sill hole by the rear jacking point that I'm avoiding until after Asia
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
off to snap now.macplaxton wrote:Please do (which side by the way?)volvosneverdie wrote:I'll see if I can snag a pic.
urrrgh.Speedy88 wrote:If it's any consolation VND I've got a rather large sill hole by the rear jacking point that I'm avoiding until after Asia
rear JPS suck dude.
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
So, the case of the mysterious disapearing hole!
(there is no hole)
I think I might be going mental.
Think I mustve snapped some crud off the front JP and presumed it was a hole.
Heres a photo anyway.
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
Hole, schmole. That's a manky flange. Best thing would be try to stop/slow the grot down by getting something on it. Damn steel cars!
Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
Get wirebrush for drill and some lamellar disc to angle grinder, that is quick to fix, make it all shiny, no dark spots allowed, then some rust converter, some sanding, so it is clean again, rust converter is to slowdown rust in spots you will not reach enough well, then some primer, I'm using zink primer, some paint, black or any other colour will actually do, paint is sealant, that makes it water proof, then some sticky black bitumen, which then protects the paint so that paint (the seal) will not breach, you can do this in one day if in hurry, make it two to let everything dry properly, there is not hour worth of work really, but every chemical and layer must be dry, before one can continue, so it takes bit of time, no rain and no working at evening or early morning allowed, humidity of air should be under 60, less is better, you don't want to seal humidity between paint and metal
CO of under 1.0, I would say car runs bit lean, might be good to adjust it bit richer, 2.5 for redblocks is often where I have heard would be the sweetspot, but don't know about renault units, maybe 1.0-1.5? Lean mixture can be hard on valves as mixture will burn hotter, that is if I remember things correctly.
CO of under 1.0, I would say car runs bit lean, might be good to adjust it bit richer, 2.5 for redblocks is often where I have heard would be the sweetspot, but don't know about renault units, maybe 1.0-1.5? Lean mixture can be hard on valves as mixture will burn hotter, that is if I remember things correctly.
Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
To eradicate moisture I find a hair-dryer or heat gun on the metal before application, shortly after application (but not too much, or the paint will crack) and then after the paint has dried, lots of heat. It appears to have worked for me so far.
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Re: MOT on ABBY the Vario 15/07/2010
yup. dunno how I convinced myself otherwise.macplaxton wrote:Hole, schmole. That's a manky flange. Best thing would be try to stop/slow the grot down by getting something on it. Damn steel cars!
P.s.
macplaxton wrote: manky flange !
I have plans similar to the above dude, thanks for the advice.jtbo wrote:Get wirebrush for drill and some lamellar disc to angle grinder, that is quick to fix, make it all shiny, no dark spots allowed, then some rust converter, some sanding, so it is clean again, rust converter is to slowdown rust in spots you will not reach enough well, then some primer, I'm using zink primer, some paint, black or any other colour will actually do, paint is sealant, that makes it water proof, then some sticky black bitumen, which then protects the paint so that paint (the seal) will not breach, you can do this in one day if in hurry, make it two to let everything dry properly, there is not hour worth of work really, but every chemical and layer must be dry, before one can continue, so it takes bit of time, no rain and no working at evening or early morning allowed, humidity of air should be under 60, less is better, you don't want to seal humidity between paint and metal
No exterior power is a problem, and I need to get a jack and axle stands.
Think next pay day will see the begining of Rust Attack!