JAK 74W

A place to describe in details your 300, close to or in genuine condition
The purchase, story of the car, repairs...
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Hell Driver
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JAK 74W

Post by Hell Driver » 05 May 2011 09:20 pm

As some on here might remember, in November 2009 I got my hands on a MK1. For those who have joined since then here is a link to the thread from that time when I first saw it.

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=8&t=8828

I can't believe that 17 months has passed since then and the car has stood virtually untouched since then, but as I said at the time, this is a long term project! Most of the time it has been garaged, although it was outside for a while in the snow in early 2010 while I got the Mk 3 back on the road. Since June last year it's been dry stored.
The last 17 months hasn't been wasted however as I have been sourcing and buying number of parts (mostly accessories :lol: ). The recession has also slowed me down a bit as the last winter was tight to say the least, especially with the weather and rising living costs.

Before even starting I've had to have a clear up in the garage, as over the last few months a lot of 340 parts came my way from two cars stripped for banger racing. This alone took ages, along with sorting through parts I already had, boxing and storing in the roof. All this to make room to work in.

I also still have the A reg 360 GLS I got from Foggy. This I am hoping to use for certain parts for the project, and in any case will be stripped down to a bare shell and all usable parts saved. I started this a while ago but only got as far as the front end (lights bumper etc.).

Any way, the other day I got the 343 out and started to experiment with the old wheels I still have from the 77 car I used to have. I know that there are clearance issues with these wheels on the 1980 front calipers and the 360 rear drums I intend using, but this I'm sure can be overcome with some wheel spacers. (I have one set already which will sort the rear drums out and I'm sure the same thickness will sort out the front too)

Image
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Tried the wheels on the front of the 360. I believe the 360 calipers/discs are the same size as all later 300s? although the caliper looks slightly different to the 1980 343. Is the cylinder bigger?
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The two cars side by side, maybe make one good one from two!
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Some of the panels I managed to get shortly after buying the car
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360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

volvosneverdie
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by volvosneverdie » 05 May 2011 09:33 pm

Nice to finally see that car dude.
Those wheels are class man!
I fully intended to run a setof those banded at one point. Think Chris was gonna sell me some. Anyway, I digress.

Nice snaps. Summers coming so pump up the mojo!
Image

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Hell Driver
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by Hell Driver » 05 May 2011 09:48 pm

volvosneverdie wrote:Summers coming so pump up the mojo!
Summers been and gone! :lol:

Yes, I've been busy at work the last few weeks so not had chance to do as much as I'd liked to yet. This weathers been great though as I've been able to leave the car out while I've been sorting the garage out.

Those wheels certainly bring back some memories, they've been some places! Nice to have something of the old car left, I think wheels have a certain significance too. So glad the old car was sitting on scrap wheels when it got nicked! I do have several other sets of different wheels I can use too but the cost of having so many tires to replace is a bit of a bugger. Those 4 tyres are no good now (I bought them new in the mid 90's :lol:, at least I got most of the tread worn off them!). I have the alloys I bought off theo for it too (at least those tyres are OK).
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

theo2468
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Location: cornwall

Re: JAK 74W

Post by theo2468 » 05 May 2011 09:54 pm

nice to see the car me and my dad supplied bits for!
C25 ECV-1985-Mk2 340GL-Kessy
A889 VUY-1983-Mk2 360GLS-RUF
volvosneverdie wrote:Vnd says:
diffs, are like pubs and legs.
Best appreciated when open.
I probably should have specified ladies legs in there too. [+=] "embarrarrased emoticon"[].com

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Speedy88
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Location: Bristol

Re: JAK 74W

Post by Speedy88 » 05 May 2011 10:39 pm

Looks awesome. Look forward to future progress!
'88 340 Williams (Sold)
'85 360 GLS - Drift project (Sold)
'77 Colt Sigma
'96 940 Drift project

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Hell Driver
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by Hell Driver » 05 May 2011 10:45 pm

Yesterday evening I decided to resume dismembering the 360. It's kind of sad having to do it but the cars pretty knocked about and neglected, as you can see from the photos. The real death warrant for it being the severe rust around all the rear suspension mounts. This is annoying as elsewhere the shell is very solid. Yet at the back of my mind a voice keeps saying,"its a 3 door shell with the 2.0 litre engine mounting, don't scrap it!!!" We'll see how it looks further on down the line when I get a better look at the rust, and see if I need to cut out parts for the MK1.

I began on the doors. Drivers side already partly stripped when I got it so taking off all the bits didn't take long. First time I've messed with electric windows/mirrors on a 300 but all straight forward. Drivers electric window motor jammed and someone had already smashed off the gear cover but been unable to free the mechanism. I just popped off the motor and wound down the gear with a pair of pliers to bring the window down to access the nuts for window removal. The door handle on the drivers side was off already so had a go with the passenger side. Again the first time I'd had a go with actually removing one. I've heard that they are fiddly, and it was till I found the right angle to withdraw the handle which a really thought was never coming off! Next I had a go with the stainless steel window trim, came off without too much trouble. The rubber window seal was fragile and ripped at the top corner, something to watch out for on the MK1 and to take more care with.

Its good having a car to practice on, although I'm trying not to damage the parts, at least I don't have to worry about the paintwork!

Taking the doors off proved to be a little more work!
Thanks to some very useful threads on the subject here, I went straight for the kill and got a door hinge removal tool.
Although the pins eventually came out, the amount of force required and the way I had to use the tool as a lever rather than as it should be used suggested that without this tool, there was no way those pins were coming out with a drift or another pin hammered down/up. I also used a blow torch/spraying on WD40 in between and cold water to try to break the rust.
If I had pre-soaked the pins for a day or two with WD40 it might have helped, I'll try this with the drivers door.
Image
Top pin part way out (down)
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Lever arrangement using bricks (not I suspect how the tool is supposed to be used!)
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One door removed!(1 1/2 hours)
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All good practice for the MK1.
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

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L14MNP
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Location: Sunderland/Durham

Re: JAK 74W

Post by L14MNP » 06 May 2011 12:33 am

I have invented a handy door pin removal system mate. :lol: I used a length of stud bar, M8? and a hammer.

It knocks the pins straight out. Fits in the gap between a fully open door and the gutter trim too. Bottom ones are best knocked straight down.

Refitting is just as easy! Sod the 'proper' removal tools. Using a smooth bar/bonnet stay would be better though, but it really is 2 minutes a side.


Looking good btw. Nice to see the car I nearly bought to break (needed tail light) getting some love. 340pw
STREETO WITHDRAWL
INTO BURNOUTSsince1982

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Chris_C
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by Chris_C » 06 May 2011 08:39 am

Hell Driver wrote:Image
Inner wing repair panels :o

Couldn't find those when I needed some so ended up fabbing them :s
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

MCHUDD
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by MCHUDD » 06 May 2011 11:13 am

Hi mate.
Great to see the car and work getting started.
I like the seats in the GLS. Had some like that colour in my first GLS years ago.
Cheers Mark. sm4

volvosneverdie
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by volvosneverdie » 06 May 2011 11:26 am

Yeah, Im a fan of that colour too.

Quality.
Image

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nvdw
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by nvdw » 06 May 2011 12:33 pm

Keep up the good work!

Nice to see you've still got the old hubcaps. After MY1978 they were deleted, and Volvo 66 ones do not fit, so early 343 owners, beware! 8)

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Hell Driver
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by Hell Driver » 07 May 2011 11:40 pm

Managed to get the other door off today. Had to eat my words about using a drift though!

The tool worked OK for the third time to get the top pin moving but by then it was getting very damaged. The driver's side pins were far more rusted in despite a longer soak with WD40. I went to get a replacement part for the pin remover but found it had to be ordered.

I'd already decided to try the drift/metal rod solution L14MNP used as it sounds a better way to get force directly to where it's needed, so I bought a set of long drifts as it was the only way to get the job done today without wasting money on another complete pin remover set (and I don't have any drifts anyway). One drift was a perfect fit (tried it in the hinge pin hole on the other door removed already).

Top pin knocked down easily, drift fits in perfectly between door and gutter.

Bottom pin another matter, drift no good for driving from above cos the hammer won't fit in to hit it (this is where a long rod of the right diameter would come in). Also due to the fact that the pin was high and slightly above the top edge of the hinge and its hard to keep it straight on, the drift was burring over the top of the pin (This would have also been a problem with a metal rod). As the door is scrap anyway due to rust, I bent the bottom corner out of the way to gain access to drift from below. I had to jack the car up to get a good swing with the hammer, and this pin needed it. It just shows how strong the metal is in a drift as I had to use maximum force with a lump hammer but the drift stayed perfectly flat at the business end. Eventually the pin moved, but needed a lot of hammering to get out. Once out I could see why, the pin was really rough with rust and must have been practically fused with the hinge.

Things to note when I start door removal/renovation on the Mk1:

1 The stainless steel rain gutter appears to stick out a few mm further than the plastic one on the later cars, so a drift or metal rod might not be an option on top hinge pins on the oldest cars. The removal tool will work but a new threaded rod part should be used for best results.

2 As the door bottoms on the Mk1 are rusted and need to be replaced anyway, the best way to remove the lower hinge pin is to bend the door corner out the way and drift up from below. Metal rod (or rod used as an extension to a drift) may be an option to drift down from above if the pin is below the top edge of the hinge and can be used to locate the rod/drift.

3 When removing the stainless window surrounds, the lower corner joining pieces are held in place partly by tiny spot welds. Remove the top corner piece first as this isn't and comes out easier without damage, allowing removal without braking the spot welds or bending of trim.

4. Be careful with the rubber window seal as it can rip on the sharp edges of the stainless trim or tear when removed from the corners of the door frame.

5. The door handle does eventually come out, swearing at it doesn't really help much :|

6. Remove the door check pin from the check strap thing before undoing the mounting nuts, as it won't stay still later once the doors off :P

7. The Mk1 has quater lights windows, unlike the car I just did, so expect more fun and games with these, any tips L14MNP?
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

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L14MNP
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Location: Sunderland/Durham

Re: JAK 74W

Post by L14MNP » 07 May 2011 11:58 pm

I broke a couple spot welds on the trim! That's after 3 doors lol. Didn't take enough notice to realise that there is a specific order to take them out. Will bare your method in mind for the other door lol.

The door handles are OK imo. Pop the rods off using an screwdriver via the inspection hole then just carefully rotate the handle until you find the sweet spot and it comes out without catching the paint - practice for reassembling a painted door.

Ah the quarter windows! I used a suction cup/dent puller thing and after removing the upright you just have to be patient and forceful! Two of them took an age to come free. The third wasn't so bad due to it being polycarb lol. There isn't really anywhere to lever against due to the seal. They come eventually, but my god do they have a good grip!

I noticed the same with the seals, particuarly in the top corner like you say. Best bet is to push it out using your finger in the channel IMO.


Glad you have the doors off! :lol:
STREETO WITHDRAWL
INTO BURNOUTSsince1982

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Hell Driver
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Re: JAK 74W

Post by Hell Driver » 08 May 2011 12:17 am

Not looking forward to the quarter lights, I remember my dad changing one years ago when someone broke in through one. It took him ages. The doors I just did were really bad for rust, the Mk1's not as bad at the top end but I expect to find some. It's worth the time to sort them out and make re spraying them a better finish too. My biggest job is going to be the rusty bottom edges. I need some A1 condition doors to cut the bottoms and lower skins off! At least any year doors will do for this as I'll keep the internal side intact. I'm expecting to have to make some sort of jig out of wood to make sure I weld them back at the correct angles and position and to hold it all still. At least I can practice on the doors off the scrap car. (although I might need them to do a swap if the local banger racer comes up with a 3 door car with good doors. (already got a good Mk 2/3 bonnet and two wings that way!)
360 GLE Saloon (D 86)
360 GLS (A 84)
343 DL (W 80) :-)
340 GL 1.7 (G 89)
360 GLS (Y 83)
440 Turbo (J 92)
Transit Tipper 125 T350 (02)Alive Again!
Transit Tipper Smiley face Q reg
Mitsubishi Colt 1.1 (54)
R.I.P. 77 343 DL vario :-(

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L14MNP
Posts: 1340
Joined: 26 May 2010 09:15 pm
Location: Sunderland/Durham

Re: JAK 74W

Post by L14MNP » 08 May 2011 12:27 am

Nice one on the banger trade!

No matter what condition the doors appear to be in, under that stainless surround they have seen better days! Cavity wax required for reassembly methinks!
STREETO WITHDRAWL
INTO BURNOUTSsince1982

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