White 340 1.7 Martini

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The purchase, story of the car, repairs...
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andrew
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Joined: 03 Dec 2013 07:28 am

White 340 1.7 Martini

Post by andrew » 24 Feb 2014 09:38 pm

Hi all there,

i thought i'll share a little about my car.
I'm Andrew, from Moscow, Russia.
Approx a year ago i read a lot on this site about how good it is to run a cheap drifty volvo.
So by summer i firmly decided to get one, before we all forced to be driven in electric self-driven cars.
The bad thing is that next 340 turned on sale in 3 months time and it was knocking severely inside its engine.
The second one turned on sale in another 3 months.
Was no driver due to broken prop shaft, no headlights, no bumbers, no radiator, no seat, no shocks, no brakes, was left for a year.
We could start it for 1 minute by pouring gas in the carb.
Ok i thought and bought it for approx 170 quid.
I'll post some pictures later.
So, that's how i got a great white 5 door 1.7 (1.4 in the title), moderately rusty.
Then there was a tow to a local machine shop, several visits to the only local junkyard with the only 340 available.
All in all, in another 3 months in the garage, the car got: (all in GBP)

the car 179
documentation fee 18
insurance 52
tow truck service 63
engine oil 40
coolant 10
spark plugs 6
mirrors 6
oil filter 6
spark plug wires 11
another oil filter 2
fuel filter 1
radiator 21
engine mounts (lada) 7
prop shaft 179
rear shocks (landie) 33
front shocks 57
front brake pads 9
rear brake pads 8
headlights 18
rear bumper 27
spare struts 36
spare front springs 0
front bumber mounts 18
wipers 2
radiator fan 20
tires fitting 0
registering and getting number plates 27
oil for gearbox and diff 45
dummy axle and splines for welding a prop shaft 17
welding a prop shaft 63
total for work 648

total 1626 GBP

Most memorable things were when we fitted spare prop shaft and it broke on test run, then i got an old one welded with new splines, and it broke because of bad splines on gear box so i decided to weld it firm to the gear box. Which fortunately works fine for now.
Or when a diff cover drainage bolt went off with a good half of the cover.

BTW, did you know, that here in Russia we have a clutch disk from lada with exactly same inner splines as on prop shaft, so you can cut and weld them quite successfully.

Anyway, still have a battery drain (fuses 5, 14, 16), no main fan, poor idle and dieseling to play around.
That's it and hope with your suggestions i'll make it road worthy soon.
Last edited by andrew on 30 Jun 2014 10:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

classicswede
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by classicswede » 24 Feb 2014 11:55 pm

Do you have any photos of your car?
Dai

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk

http://www.classicswede.com

phone/text 07824887160

Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

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andrew
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 27 Feb 2014 09:36 pm

well, here you go

Image
Image
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Can anyone explain me: i've downloaded a wiring diagram (v3m_technical_wiring_diagrams.pdf) from this site and it says i have one wire for each stop light, whereas i have a double wire in each brake light. Is there another set of wiring diagrams that suit my car?

macplaxton
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by macplaxton » 27 Feb 2014 09:49 pm

andrew wrote:whereas i have a double wire in each brake light.
There are two tail lights with single filament bulbs and two stop/tail lights with dual filament bulbs. (I think)

On the other hand, it could be absolutely anything if someone has been in there before you. 340pw
72 DAF 44 Estate 78 Volvo 343DL Black BeautyImageImage
82 Volvo 343DL CVTImageImage 88 Volvo 340DL Diesel

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andrew
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 23 Apr 2014 09:53 pm

time for an update:

Sorted brake lights - were not working due to rusted earth bars
fixed exhaust leak where manifold meets the downpipe - a stud stripped out and took two weeks while trying to use stud extractor and heat, then welding a nut then finally angle grinder and a drill with right angle adapter.
curiously the other stud was already changed to a bolt with a side cut into the flange.
assembled the intake
fitted aftermarket cooler temp gauge and a tacho
swapped the main fan to a Lada's one with custom wiring
So once the car was moving i got to registering it at a police station. 5 months after purchase. The whole lot of inspectors went out and started making jokes about Lenin making his trips a century ago in that old volvo.
Ordered rotor arm and distributor cap from Dai

further plans:
find out why the engine is running so shaky
engine is not making much power, especially when on full throttle at low revs. as if it is overfueling. i'm never running with choke off anyway, otherwise engine tends to stall on idle.
sort the wiring mess
fix that the exhaust is touching the prop shaft. BTW, is it a well known problem or it's only me having this?
strip and clean the carb.
give the car a bit of the road time, it was sitting for a year and then almost not moving for 5 months with me.
fit handbrake cables. got two NEW rear handbrake cables from a guy who doesn't own a volvo and had them sitting in a garage for a decade for no apparent reason.

question: 2nd gear engages only if i really slam the gearlever to the left.. then softly down.
Is it always like this (so i just have a trim around the lever that is not set straight) or that means a faulty bushings in the gear selector mechanism?

people's replies tend to divide to two polar options. Some say "Cool" when i announce that i bought the old faulty volvo. Others say "Why?". So you can know for sure if you are speaking with true petrolhead only with one clause=)

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bogbasic
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by bogbasic » 24 Apr 2014 02:22 am

Hello, your running problems sound exactly like the idle solenoid - here's a picture somewhere else on this forum, reproduced without permission ;-)...

Image

If you can get a working replacement, your running problems will disappear!! The exhaust always bangs on something - not sure if its the prop-shaft in my case. Yes, the change into second gear is always exactly as you describe but you may be able to adjust the 'gate' by removing the trim at the base of the gear-lever and adjusting things at the base. I think CBA cured the problem with his 1.4 by trimming the plastic on the gear lever. Keep up the great work.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

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andrew
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 24 Apr 2014 06:05 am

bogbasic wrote:Hello, your running problems sound exactly like the idle solenoid - here's a picture somewhere else on this forum, reproduced without permission ;-)...

If you can get a working replacement, your running problems will disappear!! The exhaust always bangs on something - not sure if its the prop-shaft in my case. Yes, the change into second gear is always exactly as you describe but you may be able to adjust the 'gate' by removing the trim at the base of the gear-lever and adjusting things at the base. I think CBA cured the problem with his 1.4 by trimming the plastic on the gear lever. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the great info.

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andrew
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Joined: 03 Dec 2013 07:28 am

Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 25 Apr 2014 06:09 pm

i don't have an idle control solenoid on carbed b172k, do i.
anyway, if there are any hints on how to improve engine running i'll apreciate them
Image

Dai, if you are reading this i'm waiting for you to ship dizzy cap and a rotor arm so much.

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bogbasic
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by bogbasic » 25 Apr 2014 07:32 pm

Hello, derrr, I am new to 1.7's but I can see a solenoid on mine and it looks like "4" on your diagram, but, yes, its best to replace the ignition parts if they are dodgy, first.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

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andrew
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Joined: 03 Dec 2013 07:28 am

Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 06 May 2014 04:59 pm

car is at the muffler shop to fix the exhaust tubes so they wont rattle to the prop shaft.

Image

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andrew
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 20 May 2014 09:09 pm

sooo.

received a package from Dai, a rotor arm and a distributor cap. fitted them and the car now runs much better. even have some proper idle. No wonder because previous setup was rusty, all covered with oil and split to halves.

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then had some engine cleaning and now it looks like
Image Image Image

which also uncovered the following: head has mismatch to block (1st pic) and a gasket sticks beneath the head (2nd). It seems to work fine but what should this really tell me?

Image Image

also, please welcome my mechanic=)
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on the positive side, i made some vinyls and applied them. Is it the same in england, you are allowed for a field racing only with proper decals??=)
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Note the racing dog to the right=)
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more
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few questions - what is supposed to hang on those two studs upwards of throttle cable
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and how does the choke bracket look like? i see the approximate pic in carb rebuild tutorial but really what should it be?
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the car runs much better now but still hesitates at part throttle \ medium revs, so i'm going to rebuild the carb. gasket set is on the buying list. so as the floats and maybe other stuff which i can't think of now.
Image Image Image
couldn't undo one of four bolts that hold carb to manifold, eventually it'll see me approaching with the angle grinder if things continue this way.

my first donuts on the field revealed that i'm too low on power, so upgrade in power department is on the list. also i'm considering on welding the diff but not sure whether this will give me more control when sideways over what i loose with understeer and even more lack in power due to increased traction.
Which also leads to thinking on swapping the powerplant to F3R 2ltrs 8 valves, but isn't it too much hassle for the benefit of not having an open diff. Need more practice to tell.
forgot to add, i've now got the usb oscilloscope, so will check the ignition waveforms soon just for the peace of mind.

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mac
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by mac » 21 May 2014 07:00 pm

Hi Andrew,
I see you're finding all the usual B172K problems! Rotor arm failures are very common, as are issues with the carburettor - especially distortion of the bottom face of the body and porous floats (they soak up fuel over time leading to incorrect float chamber fuel levels).

I note you intend to rebuild the carb - I suggest you measure the weight of the float "fresh from the float chamber" it should weigh no more than 7g - if more, replace it. Genuine Solex floats are getting harder to find and are quite expensive but a good "tip" is to use a Lada Niva 1700 float - see e-bay link below.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lada-Niva-Sol ... 4ad4afed0c

I will try to answer your other questions - the "displaced" head at the front is perfectly normal - see pic below (on one of my engines)

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I've not seen a head gasket project at the rear before but it may be simply the type of gasket used - my engines look like the pic below.
I can't really see the engine running if the head gasket is reversed or badly misplaced though.

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The two studs at the rear side of the head should carry a bracket which carries a support buffer for the air cleaner housing
and a clip for the crankcase breather hose.

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By the choke bracket I assume you mean the bracket to which the operating cable clips - see pic below,

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I hope the above help - but if you need further help just ask. In any event keep posting and let us know how you get on.

Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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andrew
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Re: White 340 1.7

Post by andrew » 30 Jun 2014 09:50 pm

Ok, it's time to document my progress.

1) So as Mac suggested i bought a float for solex from Lada. They are 2 GBP here and resemble original floats very well.
2) Dismantled the carb, waited for a refurb kit to arrive.
3) Spotted that second barrel did not open, so one forum thread later Mac described my carb to me in details i could never figure myself. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15751
4) refurb kit arrived so i decided to practice on the top part of the carb first.
Before:
Image Image Image
In the process
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Finished article
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5) Next weekend it was time for the bottom part:
Before:
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In the process. Carb almost fully disassembled.
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Base was almost flat. Gave it a go with very fine 800th grit paper.
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After the body has spent a week in White spirit bath.
Image Image Image
6) Painted some levers.
Could not undo two rusted pieces with WD40 but easily set them free with rust proof agent (Phosphoric acid)
Soldered accelerator pump bleed orifice.
Could not undo both fuel jets. The screwdriver just scrapes them, makes a lot of shavings and ruins the jet.
Fit all the new gaskets, rubber rings and bolts.
And assembled everything back.
Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image Image

7) Also while the carb was out i cleaned the manifold side of the engine with good portion of high pressure wash.
Image Image Image


So, as the bottom line: The car did start first time but it a) doesn't work with less than 30% choke. Which is due to not operational fuel shut off solenoid and a hole in primary throttle plate and random idle screw position and many leaks.
and b) it works on two to three cylinders and the washing is to blame. There are still lots of water on the wires and plugs.
Anyway, i always have a to-do list of 15 entries about the Volvo so the work continues=)

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andrew
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Re: White 340 1.7 Martini

Post by andrew » 15 Jul 2014 06:56 pm

Hi, guys, a small update and a few questions.

First off, the package from Mac arrived this Monday. You're a great man, Mac, thanks a lot.

Before this, i had a weekend to fix the idle. So that's what i did:
a) Soldered a hole in the primary throttle plate, to enhance vacuum on idle circuit
b) Took the plastic tip off the fuel shut off solenoid's needle. It wasn't working anyway.
c) Flattened every flange below the carb to fight possible vacuum leaks
d) Fit double gaskets on both sides of the insulating block. One black and one paper yellow on each side, from the webcon kit.
e) Tightened every bolt and nut on the carb so there are sure no leaks.
f) checked the floats once again

Still, car doesn't idle with less than 30% choke.
I used default position for the idle mix screw (3 turns back from full stop) but it doesn't seem to matter much.

What are supposed to be my next steps?
1) Check air-to-fuel ratio at idle with wideband lambda sensor?
2) How do i know that engine gets enough mixture at idle? Do i just unscrew idle mixture screw more?
3) When i fit proper fuel shut off solenoid, where is the other end of the wire that feeds current to it? Could not understand that from the book. My wire to the solenoid is constantly unpowered.

On a side note: Cleaned accelerator cable with petrol and it caught fire on the test run. Don't try this at home=) Luckily a fellow volvo owner have a spare one, but that's 80 kms one way.
Also, because of high pressure wash short circuited the wires or excessive current from the generator the whole wiring at the left front wing burned. Also on the test run.
Nothing that can't be fixed next weekend, just one hell of a test drive it was.

Suggestions appreciated.

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mac
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Re: White 340 1.7 Martini

Post by mac » 15 Jul 2014 08:06 pm

Hi Andrew, glad the parts arrived safe!

I suspect the base is settings are not quite right.

Firstly set the basic throttle (idle speed screw). Although at idle the mixture is handled by the idle circuit, some air still needs to pass the throttle plate (in fact when applying the choke the throttle is opened slightly to give an adequate fast idle). Also if the idle solenoid is not working the idle passage will be sealed.

Fit "my" parts and connect the idle solenoid to a wire that is live (+12v) whenever the ignition is on (should be a blue/red wire from fuse 10 (8A) - which also serves the carb heating thermistor if fitted).
Start the engine and run on choke until warm.
Adjust the idle speed (increase) using the screw shown in the pic below,

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As you increase the idle speed by this adjustment you should be able to push in the choke to "off".
Set the idle to about 800rpm. Adjust the idle mixture screw to give the fastest smoothest idle you can - then readjust the idle speed back to around 800. (The idle Speed and idle Mixture are two different adjustments)

As for your flaming cable - there is only one thing to say - oooops! :oops:

Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.

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