Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Afternoon girls,
Just to add to the handbrake stops - currently second version is under test by Mac and Volvomania (Born Built Beauties).
Initial thoughts are that they are first class - they seem very strong, layer resolution seems to be <0.1mm and no separation even under considerable force.
All credit to Ben for his work in producing the 3D printing program and arranging for manufacture.
Assuming they pass muster - which seems likely they will be available from Mac, BBB, and probably Ben as well. Final price point has not yet been determined but will be around £2.50 - £3.00 each.
Mac.
Just to add to the handbrake stops - currently second version is under test by Mac and Volvomania (Born Built Beauties).
Initial thoughts are that they are first class - they seem very strong, layer resolution seems to be <0.1mm and no separation even under considerable force.
All credit to Ben for his work in producing the 3D printing program and arranging for manufacture.
Assuming they pass muster - which seems likely they will be available from Mac, BBB, and probably Ben as well. Final price point has not yet been determined but will be around £2.50 - £3.00 each.
Mac.
88 5door Redline 1.7 52k - 19 XC60 Momentum Pro D4 AWD 17k
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
1950 pair of legs that don't work very well.
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- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 4398
- Joined: 06 Jan 2007 02:38 pm
- Location: Bonn, Germany
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
That's great news. Well done, Ben and Mac ...
Tom
Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Good day everyone.
The last couple days have been productive
15/04/16
My hubs were picked up from the machine shop, the stud holes have been drilled out to 14mm, the new studs pulled in really easy and look good.
IMAG4048 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
And the spare fuel tank was cleaned up ready for painting.
IMAG4049 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The metal tube that supplies the vacuum to the CVT unit needed to be welded back to the bracket. Then painted up, came out quite well.
IMAG4050 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
16/04/16
Today the cleaned parts got painted with POR15
The anti roll bar.
IMAG4055 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The rear hubs.
IMAG4052 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The front hubs.
IMAG4051 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The CVT unit mounting frame.
IMAG4054 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The leaf springs
IMAG4053 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The fuel tank, this came up so well
IMAG4056 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4057 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Some more work on the car tomorrow while it is sunny.
Little up update on the hand brake stops, there are on my rear axle and the work well
IMAG4059 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4058 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Watch this space for more updated
Ben
The last couple days have been productive
15/04/16
My hubs were picked up from the machine shop, the stud holes have been drilled out to 14mm, the new studs pulled in really easy and look good.
IMAG4048 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
And the spare fuel tank was cleaned up ready for painting.
IMAG4049 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The metal tube that supplies the vacuum to the CVT unit needed to be welded back to the bracket. Then painted up, came out quite well.
IMAG4050 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
16/04/16
Today the cleaned parts got painted with POR15
The anti roll bar.
IMAG4055 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The rear hubs.
IMAG4052 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The front hubs.
IMAG4051 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The CVT unit mounting frame.
IMAG4054 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The leaf springs
IMAG4053 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The fuel tank, this came up so well
IMAG4056 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4057 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Some more work on the car tomorrow while it is sunny.
Little up update on the hand brake stops, there are on my rear axle and the work well
IMAG4059 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4058 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Watch this space for more updated
Ben
Last edited by benji1985 on 02 Jul 2017 07:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Epic work, an awesome project.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Thank youbogbasic wrote:Epic work, an awesome project.
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Lovely stuff.
I put my POR'd axle back together this week and after accidentally sliding the knurled end of my ratchet across it and not making a mark i started throwing spanners at it for fun
I put my POR'd axle back together this week and after accidentally sliding the knurled end of my ratchet across it and not making a mark i started throwing spanners at it for fun
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
I can genuinely picture you doing that Tom!thododd wrote:Lovely stuff.
I put my POR'd axle back together this week and after accidentally sliding the knurled end of my ratchet across it and not making a mark i started throwing spanners at it for fun
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Hello all, updates for you all, some good some not so good
17/04/16
My plan started today to underseal the back section of the car, which meant removing all the remaining bits, this started with the fuel lines, so undid them from the fuel pump and then discovered that one of the pipes was split (maybe why her MPG was quite bad...)
IMAG4064 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The next line was the big long brake pipe, to do this the pipe had to be removed from the "equalizer" (I think that is what it is called), however to gain a good access the heater box had to be removed, so the box was opened up to find the heater resister wired like this:
IMAG4065 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
also the foam had completely disintegrated.
IMAG4068 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Then CVT declutching servo had to be removed (again I think that is what it is called)
IMAG4067 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
at last i could get to the brake lines,
IMAG4069 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
I un-clipped the fuel lines and brake line from under the car and with drew them, next was the vac line to the CVT units, these would not move at all, turns out that they had glued themselves in in the chassis, long flat bar managed to un stick them and out they came too. by this point I spent a good lump of the day removing bits and thought I should put the undersealing off till the next day (as you can guess I hate doing undersealing)
removed that remaining brackets and the fuel tank filler hose, now she is ready to be undersealed once she has been wire brushed.
IMAG4073 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
(you can see the previous attempts by me to underseal)
IMAG4074 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4076 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4075 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4077 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4078 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Few dents in the chassis, been there for as long as i can remember.
I then realised that the rear bumper was mounted in the area that would have underseal on, so set about removing that, as expected all 4 bolts broke, New ones to be sourced, thank you Mac.
So after removing the bumper I found this!
IMAG4079 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4080 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
more to come on this hole....
I removed the radiator too as this day shaped up to be a removing of things day
IMAG4081 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Rear mud flaps removed
IMAG4082 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Grill and associated bits
IMAG4083 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Heater box
IMAG4086 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
No idea what this is called... going with "Brace bar"
IMAG4087 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
CVT de-clutching servo?
IMAG4088 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Brake equaliser
IMAG4089 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Master cylinder removed a little while ago
IMAG4090 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Renix unit
IMAG4091 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Spare wheel support bar
IMAG4092 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Fuel lines
IMAG4093 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Vac lines
IMAG4094 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Brake lines, couple of the small ones need to be re-made
IMAG4095 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
While all this was going on, the top coat of POR15 was drying on some of the parts
IMAG4096 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4097 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4098 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4099 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
few little runs in the paint
IMAG4100 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Heater box internals
IMAG4101 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
18/04/16
Today i was going to crack on with the undersealing..... this didn't happen, i thought to myself that I should probably put some anti-rust stuff on first before the underseal, Mac confirmed that this should happen, so again the underseal was postponed.
However had a good look around the engine bay as all that is left is the engine and steering rack, and found some more rust
These are in the corners above the fuse box and wiper moter and under the rubber seal
IMAG4107 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4108 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4109 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4110 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr (fuse box side)
IMAG4111 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr (fuse box side)
IMAG4112 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr (could just be surface rust.... hoping (it wasn't.....))
now for the rust under the rear bumper, a little poke and prod later...
IMAG4113 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
It has gone through to the rear lights, So i have duct taped it up for now just to try and help a little.
Oh yes and the bad bit (sorry no photos, I was in a very bad mood at this point), I was trying to losen the bolts that hold the engine beam in, ready to take them off once the engine was removed, applied heat and penetrating oil, but no the little bugger (a lot more civil words than what was used) snapped in the chassis...... By this point i gave up for the day and phoned Mac and have come up with a plan of action.
I have just brought a new welder, still need to get the gas and bits have all the PPE.
So my question thus far are:
1) the foam that fell apart in the heater box, where can i get new stuff and what am i looking for?
2) the broken bolt in the chassis is held in via a tube thing welded on the inside of the chassis does anyone know the diameter of this tube that the bolts go in to are?
Ben
17/04/16
My plan started today to underseal the back section of the car, which meant removing all the remaining bits, this started with the fuel lines, so undid them from the fuel pump and then discovered that one of the pipes was split (maybe why her MPG was quite bad...)
IMAG4064 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
The next line was the big long brake pipe, to do this the pipe had to be removed from the "equalizer" (I think that is what it is called), however to gain a good access the heater box had to be removed, so the box was opened up to find the heater resister wired like this:
IMAG4065 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
also the foam had completely disintegrated.
IMAG4068 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Then CVT declutching servo had to be removed (again I think that is what it is called)
IMAG4067 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
at last i could get to the brake lines,
IMAG4069 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
I un-clipped the fuel lines and brake line from under the car and with drew them, next was the vac line to the CVT units, these would not move at all, turns out that they had glued themselves in in the chassis, long flat bar managed to un stick them and out they came too. by this point I spent a good lump of the day removing bits and thought I should put the undersealing off till the next day (as you can guess I hate doing undersealing)
removed that remaining brackets and the fuel tank filler hose, now she is ready to be undersealed once she has been wire brushed.
IMAG4073 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
(you can see the previous attempts by me to underseal)
IMAG4074 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4076 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4075 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4077 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4078 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Few dents in the chassis, been there for as long as i can remember.
I then realised that the rear bumper was mounted in the area that would have underseal on, so set about removing that, as expected all 4 bolts broke, New ones to be sourced, thank you Mac.
So after removing the bumper I found this!
IMAG4079 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4080 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
more to come on this hole....
I removed the radiator too as this day shaped up to be a removing of things day
IMAG4081 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Rear mud flaps removed
IMAG4082 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Grill and associated bits
IMAG4083 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Heater box
IMAG4086 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
No idea what this is called... going with "Brace bar"
IMAG4087 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
CVT de-clutching servo?
IMAG4088 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Brake equaliser
IMAG4089 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Master cylinder removed a little while ago
IMAG4090 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Renix unit
IMAG4091 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Spare wheel support bar
IMAG4092 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Fuel lines
IMAG4093 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Vac lines
IMAG4094 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Brake lines, couple of the small ones need to be re-made
IMAG4095 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
While all this was going on, the top coat of POR15 was drying on some of the parts
IMAG4096 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4097 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4098 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4099 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
few little runs in the paint
IMAG4100 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
Heater box internals
IMAG4101 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
18/04/16
Today i was going to crack on with the undersealing..... this didn't happen, i thought to myself that I should probably put some anti-rust stuff on first before the underseal, Mac confirmed that this should happen, so again the underseal was postponed.
However had a good look around the engine bay as all that is left is the engine and steering rack, and found some more rust
These are in the corners above the fuse box and wiper moter and under the rubber seal
IMAG4107 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4108 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4109 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
IMAG4110 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr (fuse box side)
IMAG4111 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr (fuse box side)
IMAG4112 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr (could just be surface rust.... hoping (it wasn't.....))
now for the rust under the rear bumper, a little poke and prod later...
IMAG4113 by Benjamin Charlton, on Flickr
It has gone through to the rear lights, So i have duct taped it up for now just to try and help a little.
Oh yes and the bad bit (sorry no photos, I was in a very bad mood at this point), I was trying to losen the bolts that hold the engine beam in, ready to take them off once the engine was removed, applied heat and penetrating oil, but no the little bugger (a lot more civil words than what was used) snapped in the chassis...... By this point i gave up for the day and phoned Mac and have come up with a plan of action.
I have just brought a new welder, still need to get the gas and bits have all the PPE.
So my question thus far are:
1) the foam that fell apart in the heater box, where can i get new stuff and what am i looking for?
2) the broken bolt in the chassis is held in via a tube thing welded on the inside of the chassis does anyone know the diameter of this tube that the bolts go in to are?
Ben
Last edited by benji1985 on 05 Sep 2017 12:48 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Hello again and sorry to hear about the problems you had. I can only help with cosmetics here - the heater air filter can be replaced with dust filter material which you can buy for workshop tools on the bay. I replaced two of mine with such material and it seems fine. I got rectangular bands of it which I stretched over the plastic support. Not brilliant but OK and I think you can see the results in my blog towards the end of last year....
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
You are doing a brilliant job here chap, the rust was bound to pop up at some point though. I've had one of those engine beam bolts snap on pretty much every one I've removed, each time I've added more penetrating oil for more days before hand and heated it up, still always gone.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Ah didn't think of that for a foam replacment...bogbasic wrote:Hello again and sorry to hear about the problems you had. I can only help with cosmetics here - the heater air filter can be replaced with dust filter material which you can buy for workshop tools on the bay. I replaced two of mine with such material and it seems fine. I got rectangular bands of it which I stretched over the plastic support. Not brilliant but OK and I think you can see the results in my blog towards the end of last year....
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Thank you, I have just brought myself a welder and have a plan to convert the inserts to studs, just hope I have the welding skills to do itChris_C wrote:You are doing a brilliant job here chap, the rust was bound to pop up at some point though. I've had one of those engine beam bolts snap on pretty much every one I've removed, each time I've added more penetrating oil for more days before hand and heated it up, still always gone.
Ben
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
I do enjoy reading through your website, keeps my hopes upbogbasic wrote:Hello again and sorry to hear about the problems you had. I can only help with cosmetics here - the heater air filter can be replaced with dust filter material which you can buy for workshop tools on the bay. I replaced two of mine with such material and it seems fine. I got rectangular bands of it which I stretched over the plastic support. Not brilliant but OK and I think you can see the results in my blog towards the end of last year....
Ben
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Hi mate.
There is not half a bit of work going on here. Brilliant.
Cheers Mark.
There is not half a bit of work going on here. Brilliant.
Cheers Mark.
Re: Duchess The Volvo 340 CVT
Thank youMCHUDD wrote:Hi mate.
There is not half a bit of work going on here. Brilliant.
Cheers Mark.