Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

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macplaxton
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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by macplaxton » 26 Feb 2013 10:04 pm

classicswede wrote:Are we talking faster than normal Chris time scale for this?
Yeah. Faster as in glacial rather than static :P 340pw
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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 26 Feb 2013 10:17 pm

Gits :lol: :lol: :lol:

It's not going to be super fast, custom parts to be made, lathes to finish building, steam engines to finish and others to start, that sort of thing! I'm on a bit of a "getting some projects off the list" effort atm, as I have some new ones I want to plan!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 09 Dec 2013 10:13 am

Well, it's nearly 12 months and progress has occurred, not enough to warrant photos yet though. For once, it's not only my business that has been the cause of this, but I'll divulge when there is a tangible thing to take a photo of.

So, last week I bought myself a book to bring some enthusiasm to the game
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I've been after getting a copy for a while, but given my level of German, is taking a while to read!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by classicswede » 09 Dec 2013 10:22 am

With my level of German I'd only have shiny pictures to look at!

Every time I see a 363 the more I think about building something along the same lines. Dan's V8 does look to be a better option over the PRV V6 in terms of engine durability.
Dai

Please email me directly on dai@classicswede.co.uk

http://www.classicswede.com

phone/text 07824887160

Web shop http://www.classicswede.co.uk/

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Chris_C
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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Apr 2020 05:32 pm

classicswede wrote:
26 Feb 2013 08:57 pm
Are we talking faster than normal Chris time scale for this?
Well... not sure what to answer to that. Foggy standard time no less.

The company who were doing one of the custom components had issues friction welding them due to the diameter of the torque tube inner (the drive quill) and went bust, with me losing a useful number of drive train parts in the process.

Then, 18 months ago, I had a new idea how to do it in a way that I would be happy with. That idea didn't go away, but Fake is now significantly worse for wear. The shell was tired when I last drove it.

A car was advertised on Facebook. I accidentally bought it. Drove it, didn't enjoy it, drove it a couple more times, then lost mojo, it didn't feel how I remembered it should and I put it down to too many MX5 miles in between. Shell has sat at the back of the drive feeling sorry for itself for 13 months. Then ~ January, I had some motivation, fixed a few things and put an MOT on it. Have been using it as my main car pre lockdown, turns out I do still enjoy a properly working 340. Still a few more niggles until it is a fault free car, then I will see if it becomes a nice standard 340, or a Fake rebuild.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 11:24 am

I've not been updating this as much as I should... been a bit of recommissioning that is expected of a car that's sat for a bit and a few things to get on top off.

One of the things I noticed when buying the car was it had previously been on the forum, so there was a bit of history tracking I could do. The last major mileage was done a few years ago and the owner at the time had some issues with suspension, cooling and the clutch.

Clutch was slipping when I picked the car up (nothing against the seller here at all, this was fully declared! And having met them previously, I had asked if they minded me driving it around their private yard to see if I was happy to drive the car home and if not, I'd come back with a trailer the next day)

Having got the car onto my drive, first thing to do was see how much I could adjust the clutch. This was the first stage of learning about the cars history... The adjuster nut on the clutch cable had been fully wound up and then lent on. Right at the end of the threaded portion. Poor clutch. So, I wound that to the correct position (green book, pedal height from floor) and it was much better. However, 2000 miles had been driven by the PO like this, so the clutch has had it. If you really try now you can make the clutch slip, so a new one is going in. All the parts are here, was booked in to do it and then March happened so the barn I have scheduled to do the change in became out of bounds.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 12:03 pm

Next exciting adventure was cooling. As mentioned, previous history showed that the car had been misbehaving somewhat.

Within the first 50 miles after MOT I was doing purely short journeys. On the way home on a 4 mile trip, temperature gauge just got to temperature and then started climbing. Got the car onto the drive
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That engine bay was immaculately clean... odd milky white residue with coppery speckles in the light.

Hmm...

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I'm informed that is what is in a bottle of K seal type head gasket panic. There was a creamy mayo in the expansion tank when the car was picked up. Compression test shows ok figures, not amazing, but within 10 psi of each other.

Back to the cooling system. There was quite a bit of sorry for itself the 'stat seal had lost some of it's new-ness, been silicone'd up and that silicon had got into the moving part of the 'stat
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The top hose had also lost some of it's new-ness. The internal webbing has clearly rotted and rather than fix the hose the PO had siliconed the hose to the stat housing
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Which outside of the sudden hose burst, looking like the hose to stat housing had been leaking for a while
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The car was intended to be on the VOC display for the NEC Classic Car and Restoration Show, along with Born Built Beauties, so I ordered a hose from BBB and fixed mine as best possible to get it to the NEC (Then COVID happened and no show... but lets ignore that)
Car hose bottom, pattern hose from the library top (I've always kept 1 NOS top and bottom hose, I've owned 1700's long enough that hose availability has been a problem for a long time, however BBB are now getting on top of this!)
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And for this reason. As the hose has aged, it's lost some of it's original set
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Managed to find some not boy racer blue silicone hose
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To shape
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Cleaned up the stat housing (which had a hell of a burr on the mating face, that didn't have a chance to seal
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Not super OEM, but you'd have to look twice to spot it and functional
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Car was a bit better after that. When driving it seemed pretty happy, but a week or so later I was at work in the rain and put the engine on to idle and blower fan on to clear the screen. Look at phone to sort some emails and heard the radiator fan kick in. Odd, given the external temperature. It didn't kick out, at which point I saw the gauge was still going skywards. Heater on, drove slowly round the car park and it came down to normal. Stopped. It went back up again. This was early afternoon, so on the road to get the car home before the traffic builds up!
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 12:30 pm

So, I don't mind admitting this took me longer to trace than it should have done.

Now being in full swing of lock down, the car wasn't going out very much (but, unlike the S60 hadn't drained it's own battery, so was doing the weekly shopping trip). On the first run where I saw this problem (the work car park above) I popped the bonnet and carefully felt the rad, minding the efan and the belts. Most of it was stone cold, apart from one 1/16th on the area in the top left. I imagine the copper coloured speckly crap had blocked it somewhat.

So, when things got a bit more sensible and less locked down, I dropped to the parents house to pick up a spare 1700 radiator (much like hoses... I like keeping a spare or two, even if the cores are gone a good frame can be re-cored) Found two possible candidates and brought them back with me, one definitely needing a recore, but genuine Volvo and a Nissens that looked like it might be ok, but in need of paint.

This is where I got somewhat tripped up. Have a careful look at the radiator mounting rubbers in this photo
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Or, for those who havn't got it from that
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My spare on the left, cars on the right
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When I first had 300s, motorfactors stocked all 300 radiators. 10 years ago, when I last needed one for Fake (there's a post in this thread about it :lol: ) it was near impossible to get a good late 340 thick core rad, Braydon's sent me a very good Nissen they had in stock. Now, it seems near impossible to find a thick core and the only one that I have found is well over twice the price of a thin core. I need to look up dates for when the change over happened, but my '91 1.4 had a thick core rad (thats where this Nissens has come from, I replaced the genuine Volvo at 9 years old in early 2001, first job I did on a car). Fake had a thick core. This shell is a 1.7, '89 on a 'G' and so should have a thick core.
Who ever had put the thin core in had done a proper job at least. It had the thin core mounting rubbers. All credit to Dai for sorting me out a set of thick core, I hadn't picked up a set when at parents house as I wasn't expecting to find this. He had them on my doormat 36 hours after phoning him.
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And finally
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Have been using the car in the silly heat (30-35 degrees clocked here the last few weeks) and it's not going above the LED. I'm getting a little concerned it's over cooling (the 16V did this, it's not always bolt upright and therefore under thermostat opening temp) but I'm keeping an eye on that
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 02:28 pm

So, with the ability to propel itself forward and not boil over, was time to do some more fun bits.

Tailgate release/lock needed fixing, intermittent wipe didn't work, drivers side electric window didn't work, sunroof looked... untouched for a long time.

Tailgate was just adjust/tighten (remembering how impossible that nut is to reach). I had a set of seals from Born Built Beauties in the parcel to pick up at the NEC, but as that didn't happen I didn't do it. In the meantime, I've found one I had in stock (but have yet to fit it :lol: )

Intermittent wipe, car had a non standard relay fitted. Relay had an electronic circuit board in that had got wet (rust coming out the plastic housing caused me to open it and find the board). That's been replaced with a VW '99' variable intermittent relay.

Drivers side window. The car had some very much not to my taste wind deflectors and the fact I couldn't bring the window down meant I couldn't take these off! Plus, it was getting hot. Chased the electrics all the way to the motor as good, which annoyed me somewhat. 300 window mechs can only come out of the door when the window is down. I couldn't get the window down as it wasn't working. A bit of ranting over WhatsApp to Steve_P (he and I last played electric windows fitting them to Fake in '06) and he pointed out that you can just get the motor off of the gearbox in situ, which either allows the window down for the mech to be removed, or a new motor fitted.

Hero.

This torx screw here (and it's friend, which is in the same plane on the opposite side) can be just got to with some jiggling and being careful of the paint on the door
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Inside, the gearbox was significantly better than expected. It's not unusual to find the sandy horrible stuff on the left (a spare motor) but the cars (right) came out clean, as was inside the gearbox.
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So, cleaned up the shaft of a good motor, repacked the box with grease, torx screws back in and solved.

Sunroof I'll put next, just because of the number of pictures to try and make it a bit more obvious for anyone who hasn't done one
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 02:59 pm

Sunroof. This took me a good month or so to build up the courage. I hadn't even tried it for a long time, and when I did it really didn't want to move.

I had forgotten how to get access to the mech, so searched the forum and found a post by me in 2009 that explained it :lol: My memory is shot... I didn't use any pictures in that post so I'll write this up and copy it over later. (http://www.volvo300mania.com/uk/forum/v ... 984#p96984)

First bit was to get it moving. Either it had been sealed with something, or the roof panel weather seal had just stuck itself to the body. Sunroof seal is not designed as a rain seal. It shouldn't be water tight, there are two pipes that come from the back of the sunroof recess and pipe water down the C pillars. If you've ever owned an MX5, there is a similar job, get some net curtain wire, heat shrink the end and rod them through. I gently used the sunroof turny handle to put a very light pressure on the panel, then went outside the car and tried to guide it down a few mm, then a bit more pressure, then guide, then back up again in the same fashion. It took a while to get the panel happy enough to pass from tilt to slide as the seal was just fouling the aperture.

Seal (another thing for the list to see if someone makes one still, Golde sunroofs are common enough)
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First is tilt, so raise the roof, get out the car and reach between the material trim and the metal panel. You are looking to turn the spring steel on it's pivot towards the front of the car (photo is from the dashboard looking backwards)
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That was fine. Then I read the bit where I said you need to slide it back, and push downwards sharply. That scared me a bit, so I'll explain and post a photo of what was going on, and tick off 11 year younger me for being a bit excitable. Slide it about half way back. The clips look like these below, and go in the 5 square holes along the front of the panel. Gentle but gradual pressure is fine.
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And for some context on where that is on the panel, it's right at the front, this is panel pretty much in the rest position
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And slide the trim panel into the abyss (the gap in the roof behind you, above the rear seats.

Adjusting etc is covered well in either the Haynes or the Green books (maybe even both) and mine didn't need it, so I won't mention that.

Now you've access to everything and can inspect. My plastic blocks were in good condition (massive sigh of relief) so I gave everything a good covering of silicon lube, operated the mech a few times, gave it another coating (on the operating spring, the sliding faces, and the "maze" that the peg from the plastic block operates in)

No photos of the furry spring but panel all the way back and look down from outside the car, you'll see it.

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Wipe off excess lube, operate panel multiple more times to make sure it is easing up and becoming super free, keep doing that, flush through more lube, be more paranoid it isn't free enough yet and once it is super slidey put the panel back in the middle of slide, pop the front clips of the trim panel back in, then move it to tilt and find a 3 year old who can both be trusted not to destroy things but also fit there hands in to rotate the spring clips back into place.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 03:35 pm

Stereo. The car came with a very much too modern head unit and speakers which cut in and out and crackled when you hit bumps. When I was in with the drivers window I found some choc-block goodness, so had those out for uninsulated crimps.
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That was going to the cross over, I then found some more choc blocks between cross overs and drivers, including one that was screwed down on the insulation that was probably causing the issue. The passenger side kept jumping out of the door, which turned out to be the crossover double sided trim taped to the door card and pulling the mounting out. Fixed that up too and isnt how I've ever done tweeter installs in a 300 before, but works fairly well.
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Gauge time. I had a spare 6 dial dash, so popped out the ambient temp and econ and transferred those to the cars dashboard.
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Along with the temp sender. Wired bundled and taped under dash as expected of a late 340, I had a spare dashboard to bumper trumpet loom and sender.
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Then gauge panel. I've never come up with a solution I'm happy with for gauges in a 300.
Kar had 3 in the stereo aperture (Oil press, oil temp, voltage).
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Fake had a 440 dash pod in an MDF mount in front of the gearstick (where the genuine panel is, but I insisted I wanted to keep that as I put my phone there whilst driving) with Oil press, voltage and narrow band lamda (having decided oil temp was pretty redundant, you can use it once to see what temperature you get to, but after that you can tell when the oil is hot from idle oil pressure)
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Having driven over 100,000 miles in "not 300's" since Fake was written off, mainly in an S60 and mk1 MX5, I've got over the wanting to keep the pocket in front of the gearstick. Both the MX5 and the S60 don't have anything as usable as a 340 door pocket, so that is now plenty. That feels like time to have a genuine gauge panel then. A bit of amusing facebook trading (a three way swap between a 3D printed carb trumpet, a Volvo 5 bar oil pressure gauge and a gauge panel) ensued, then I realised I still needed a 5 bar gauge. I have several 3 bar ones... Anyway, that solved, onto fitting.

I've seen several gauge panels that never seemed to fit right so went to the blue leaflet section of the forum that shows the gauge panel when new comes with 2 clips to fit it to the gearstick surround. I obviously had no clips. http://www.volvo300mania.com/uk/forum/v ... =37&t=3823

So, armed with just that drawing, I went over to the CAD and 3D printer (I only got it just before Xmas and it's great for this sort of stuff) and made some clips. I did find someone with some genuine ones later, which look nothing like the blue book diagram :lol:
CAD
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Thing
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Fits ok
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Lining up against a flat edge. I used a couple of euro cent coins to space the panel correctly. I couldn't use the blue leaflet template as no idea if my clips had the same centre line!
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Panel wasn't perfect, but not at all bad. The wavy top can't be see from the car and the random LEDs may come in handy one day. They have been done neatly, but the legs cut off...
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Whilst I was creating the wiring loom for the gauges, I looked to replace the bulbs in the ashtray and cigar lighter (I needed the cigar lighter out to get dash illumination to the gauges, I also put the pin in to the stock stereo connector whilst I was there. The crimp terminal required is TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - 925663-1 if anyone ever wants to add that, wire colour should be blue with red trace)

Bulb was fine in the cigar lighter, but the bulb holder earth had oxidised. To give a clue of how little earth there is....
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Untaped partial loom
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And the stereo illumination if required goes in this hole in the plug (shown before crimping)
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'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by bogbasic » 20 Aug 2020 03:40 pm

Epic work. Keep it up.
1988 340 1.4 GL, 218k, 5 door (Grey Bess). Gone to CBA.
1991 340 1.7 GL, 64k, 5 door, petrol blue (Deep Blue).
1988 360 2.0 GLE, 140k, 5 door, ocean blue metallic (Blue Bess).
1989 340 1.7 GL, 108k, 3 door (Red Ness).
More info here!

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 04:07 pm

Fuel Expansion tank hoses. Again, standard fair when you buy a new 340. I mistakenly thought that as this car was 30 years old it would have been done, but no. I had to do it on my 9 yo 1.4, my 15 yo 1.7 and I'd have thought this would have annoyed someone before now!

If these aren't done, the car will drip when you brim the tank. I did at least check them before that happened.

Interior trim panel off after rear seat back out (PH3 screw to release the driver side plastic clip, lift clip and seat back out, don't loose the thick rubber washer). Remove the rear light bulb cover, then the trim panel is one small (PH1 or 2, memory is going) phillips self tapper into the boot floor, 2 PH3 into the boot sides, plastic pop clip in the cavity cover recess. Slide out under the upper C pillar trim, unclip the boot lamp.

These are some of the offending hoses
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The others live underneath
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These looked like this when brought out the car
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New interior ones
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New under car ones
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I bought 3m of 1/4" and 2m of 1/2". You likely could get away with a bit less, but I wasn't up for mucking about. When it comes to putting them back, take the big 4 hole gommet out of the car, thread the hoses back through it (having noted which one goes through which hole before removing them!). Assemble the Y assembly before lowering grommet back into the car, fit grommet then go under the car and fit the 1/2" hose onto the tank top and the long 1/4" breather onto the rear of the tank.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 04:20 pm

Whilst I was doing the above fuel hose I noticed that the rear number plate lamp holder in the car was one of the best condition I'd seen, so decided I'd take it out to CAD up. These normally have their arms either heat distorted or cracked and it was a pretty terrible design for that.

So, good lamp holder
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CAD
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Test holder, in PLA for fitment testing
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That went quite well, so decided to order a roll of PETG, to see how much harder it is to print with. Advantages, much higher heat stability
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And then, started testing. Currently has around 48 hours of bulb on time in ~4-8h chunks
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Next set of testing is to bring a lamp cluster indoors to see how it fairs without good airflow. I'd much prefer it went wrong when I'm in a stationary house rather than driving... :lol:
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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Re: Fake - F7R Motorsport Daily

Post by Chris_C » 20 Aug 2020 04:30 pm

Last thing for the day (that I have photos off, there are a couple of other projects going on in the background for the car still). I'm not certain about this one yet and think it will need another iteration or two.

I've never found a sensible way to mount a phone in a 300. I don't like the brodit mounts (and they aren't available anymore). A few friends pointed me at the air vent magnet mounts which look neat, but 300 air vents are made of the worst quality snapping plastic available at the time.

So, I thought about putting one in the ashtray. Ish.

So, back to the CAD and the printer

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Bit of 2mm ali bar I had in stock, so the hole in the CAD was made to fit, for something for the mount to grab

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Which kinda looked like it might work. It held the phone ok

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Theres some fails in the print, so did another in PETG for better temp stability again. Printer was getting in need of a hug around here, so this one failed with a useful sized layer shift too
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But it fitted ok (top), so gave it a sand and a light spray with black to see, blends in fairly well (apologies for the night photo, but middle and bottom)
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It works fine, but isn't in the most ergonomic position. Have used it for a 90min sat nav trip though. The layer shift line still annoys me and if I'm going to re do it I will likely put an angle in somewhere.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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