Turbo 360: More potential shell ruining lol

[volvosneverdie]

Cool to see it in the bay dude. Looks rather impressive as it stands.
Bet you it's gonna sound and drive a lot more impressivly when key-turn time comes mind!

[L14MNP]

Cheers dude.

It already steers better lol. The steering damper was cracked on mine so John provided me a replacement and even the cool plastic cover lol.

It's a start...

[Ride_on]

damn good progress, few more comments;

Input bearing change to match 360 drive shaft - I'm not following, I thought you just needed the right clutch plate as the 940 one won't fit onto the 360 drive shaft splines.

Flywheel sensor - Also as I plan to do. Be careful with the little bracket they can break easily, and unlike the 360, you definitely can't use them as a crank lock for doing the crank pulley bolt (It just breaks!).

Distributor location - I see you've removed the 360 ventilation box, not sure what you have planned, but I believe the 940 distributor will not fit. Fair enough if you just want to get it going, but you may need the 360 intermediate shaft for the 360 distributor. I hate the 940 distributor anyway it leaks oil into the cap, in a similar way to the 1.7s although it at least has 2 seals compared to the 1.7.

Dual mass flywheel - They are occasionally needed in 940 repair market if working properly, try it on volvoforums.org.uk. Hard to know if its on the way out though without driving it. £800 new or something ridiculous like that. My 95 daily car is juddery on clutch disengage and in need of a new dual mass (I will have one from my 96 doner), I will compare the flywheels for any signs that can be tested by hand off the car.

Engine mounts - I forgot that with the on-engine test, the top plate is going to get closer to the turbo when the weight of the engine stretches the engine mount, but excellent that that it nearly fits, it will do to get going with and provides a reference if needed for a custom mount. Hope the 360 mounts are up to the power increase though. Check your diff mounts for corrosion aswell.

Water pipe locations- very useful pics thanks

Extra boost - You probably know this already but the 940 engines respond very nicely to a manual boost control, to bring boost upto around 11psi. Brings my 0-60 time in the 940 from about 8.5 to 7.5s. Looking for a nice multi gauge solution for the 360 dash.

What is that sitting at the front of the rad..intercooler? tell me more.

[SteveP]

manual boost control, to bring boost upto around 11psi.

Definitely do this!

[magnumpi]

Great progress, it's coming along quickly.

I know it will need a running in period, so things will get changed but word of warning, don't use Halfords oil filters. The filter element is cardboard and most of them don't have a wire gauze/mesh inside so they break down and block the oil ways. It happened to my Bro's Lupo which involved him having to remove the engine and clear all the oil ways out.

[pyro]

damn good progress, few more comments;

1) Input bearing change to match 360 drive shaft - I'm not following, I thought you just needed the right clutch plate as the 940 one won't fit onto the 360 drive shaft splines.

2) Distributor location - I see you've removed the 360 ventilation box, not sure what you have planned, but I believe the 940 distributor will not fit. Fair enough if you just want to get it going, but you may need the 360 intermediate shaft for the 360 distributor. I hate the 940 distributor anyway it leaks oil into the cap, in a similar way to the 1.7s although it at least has 2 seals compared to the 1.7.

1) the spigot bearing didnt need to be changed on my engine when i did the swap, was the same size as the 360 one, still not hard though, ITs the clutch shaft/input shaft support bearing, nothing fancy, easy swap, and the one from the 360 engine is as direct replacement. the 940 vs 360 spigot bearing must have a different internal diameter hence the swap, straight swap though.

2) Yep itll fit, gives you about 5mm of clearance, ive never had a problem with mine. However you can swap aux shafts over from a b200 which will put the dizzy and mech pump drive back in place, didnt have time to do it on mine though. You will have to dremel a few holes in the block though, easy enough....

Ben

[Ride_on]

damn good progress, few more comments;

1) the spigot bearing didnt need to be changed on my engine when i did the swap, was the same size as the 360 one, still not hard though, ITs the clutch shaft/input shaft support bearing, nothing fancy, easy swap, and the one from the 360 engine is as direct replacement. the 940 vs 360 spigot bearing must have a different internal diameter hence the swap, straight swap though.

2) Yep itll fit, gives you about 5mm of clearance, ive never had a problem with mine. However you can swap aux shafts over from a b200 which will put the dizzy and mech pump drive back in place, didnt have time to do it on mine though. You will have to dremel a few holes in the block though, easy enough....

Ben

I didn't realise the drive shaft was supported at the engine, will bear it in mind.

I definitely want the old dizzy in there because of problems with the 940 one, I just get mild hesitation, but it really makes a huge difference when the cap is cleaned. I don't want major disassembly to do servicing. I though it was just a case of popping out the core plug, punch with screwdriver and lever out.

[pyro]

well with the aux shaft on my 940 engine the shaft hadnt been machined into lobes or gears (fuel pump and dizzy respectively)

but i think its an easy swap, take off timing cover, pull gears off and im anticipating there being a retaining ring/circlip holding the aux shaft in, then simply swap over.

the dizzy will need retiming though, cyl1 at TDC, then dizzy rotor pointing at cyl1, will have to get the gears (on the aux shaft and end of the dizzy) lined up best as possible, then adjust with the clamp on the block.

i wanted to do this on mine but engine went to the scrap men before i had a chance, and to get teh shaft in without taking teh engine out id have to pull the rad out and bumper (not that that is hard!)

sorry to pinch this a bit liam!!

Ben

[L14MNP]

Cheers guys. I will answer what questions I can and update this later on. I'm gonna go back down the garage in a bit and crack on shortly.

[EDIT] lol Ben, don't be silly mate. I'm sure there's parts you're more aware of than me! Just a quick one, the heater box looks like it will indeed go back in (gotta cut n shut the matrix pipes first though) I think it will rub on the cap a touch and possibly the king lead. I don't seem to have 5mm there.

[L14MNP]

damn good progress, few more comments;

Input bearing change to match 360 drive shaft - I'm not following, I thought you just needed the right clutch plate as the 940 one won't fit onto the 360 drive shaft splines.

Flywheel sensor - Also as I plan to do. Be careful with the little bracket they can break easily, and unlike the 360, you definitely can't use them as a crank lock for doing the crank pulley bolt (It just breaks!).

Distributor location - I see you've removed the 360 ventilation box, not sure what you have planned, but I believe the 940 distributor will not fit. Fair enough if you just want to get it going, but you may need the 360 intermediate shaft for the 360 distributor. I hate the 940 distributor anyway it leaks oil into the cap, in a similar way to the 1.7s although it at least has 2 seals compared to the 1.7.

Dual mass flywheel - They are occasionally needed in 940 repair market if working properly, try it on volvoforums.org.uk. Hard to know if its on the way out though without driving it. £800 new or something ridiculous like that. My 95 daily car is juddery on clutch disengage and in need of a new dual mass (I will have one from my 96 doner), I will compare the flywheels for any signs that can be tested by hand off the car.

Engine mounts - I forgot that with the on-engine test, the top plate is going to get closer to the turbo when the weight of the engine stretches the engine mount, but excellent that that it nearly fits, it will do to get going with and provides a reference if needed for a custom mount. Hope the 360 mounts are up to the power increase though. Check your diff mounts for corrosion aswell.

Water pipe locations- very useful pics thanks



Extra boost - You probably know this already but the 940 engines respond very nicely to a manual boost control, to bring boost upto around 11psi. Brings my 0-60 time in the 940 from about 8.5 to 7.5s. Looking for a nice multi gauge solution for the 360 dash.

What is that sitting at the front of the rad..intercooler? tell me more.

Cheers Ride_on.

My mate changed the input bearings over whilst I was doing something else, so I can't remember his reasoning behind it. Possibly as magnum says, due to internal diameter.. I'll ask. I wanna know now lol.

Yeah I wouldn't try and lock the flywheel from there! Cheers for the heads up though. I have my mates 18v Snap-On impact wrench at my disposal should I need the crank bolt off.

I planned to (and have) modified the 360's blower box to accomodate the 940 distributor. That sucks that you say it's not a great design, but it will do me for now. I want it up and running as it was in the donor before I change too much.

Interesting info RE the DMF. If you could check your two for any differences that would be good. I think this one may be on the way out possibly, as the clutch was very high. Seemed smooth though, so I guess that was just the clutch plate, which wasn't excessively worn btw.

The engine mounts are fine unless the enfgine is rocked full to the right hand side, which is when the turbo housing strikes the mount top plate. You have to be very vigorous to acheive this though. Uprated mounts is something I will look into. Maybe from a Beemer. My diff and torque tube mounts are nice and healthy thankfully mate!

As you say, I plan on fitting a bleed valve to bring the boost up. That's not a bad 0-60 improvement btw!

That is indeed a FMIC sitting in front of the rad. Just placed there (clearly lol) it's from a Renault Trafic and I do hope I can use it, as the price was right, and most importantly the size, as I plan to run it directly behind the grille if it's feasible.

magnum, cheers for the info on the oil filters dude! I wasn't aware of that. A right possible headache in the pipeline (pun intended) that can easily be avoided lol.
After I do a few hundred miles on some cheapo oil I will swap it for decent stuff and an OEM filter with the anti-drain down valve - if they have them?

I'm glad you guys have answered your own questions lol. I have no idea what you're on about.

[L14MNP]

Blame PB for the crap resizing once more...

Well, the heater box doesn't fit back in without modification lol.

As can be seen, a large section has been cut away to enable it to fit back in position and clear the distributor. I couldn't even force it in without chopping a section away.

Also had to chop the right angle from the bottom of the outlet thing on the heater box to clear the heater matrix pipework.


Before. You can just see it at the top of the image.

After. Boot cable tied into place.

As for the matrix pipes, one from the 360 was used and one from the B230.


360 loom (headlights etc) removed from chassis leg, will need running down inner wing to keep away from turbo heat. Headlight wiper plug won't reach anymore but that doesn't bother me as I don't run them.

The alternator wiring is also going to have to be extended due to the alternator now being located on the opposite side to standard. Once I have it running I will shortern/hide the loom as best I can.

The coil is quite happy mounted on the bulkhead, and I bolted the boost sensor? pipes T off to the turbo and inlet) to the N/S chassis leg courtesy of the B19 airbox bracket.



This front panel hole is nice and handy! lol







Standard pipework with AFM removed from 940 airbox. Here you can see how far away it is from fitting lol, not to mention it's a fcuking mess!


I have just acheived the impossible! I made a V300 uglier.




It would be nice to utilise the two CAI holes in the 360 front panel for the boost pipes to the FMIC but we shall have to see.


Bottom rad hose has been chopped about but is going to have to shortened and rejoined on the straight section to avoid the kink it currently has when fitted.



Tomorrow, fuel pump (GLT job courtesy of FJ. Thanks mate!) to be mounted and fuel pipe bought and fitted. I hope to take a look at the downpipe situtation also and will begin transplanting the 940 wiring into the car. Also, the B19 accelerator cable will not fit the B230. I guess I will have to drill a hole and notch out the wheel on the TB or get an injection cable?

Thanks for the help tonight Conor, and it's been good seeing you again this weekend mate. Even though you're up here for shitty circumstances. Hopefully next time we RV we can have a bit of tandem play!

[volvosneverdie]

This photo is full of win.




That is all.

[Nimminz]

wow, progress! seems only the other week i seen your car running with the B19.

I'd come give a hand sometime but dunno how much use i'd be.

Oh and whats the scrappy down there like? They have a porsche 944 in there last time i was past

[L14MNP]

Cheers mate. It was a few weeks back lol. I make it 6 this weekend.

As of 02/08/10, the 360 has been worked on for 7 days. I'm hoping 2 more and it will be in some form of roadworthy state once more!

Today FJ and I ran the fuel lines and mounted the pump. Big thanks once more mate, and I also need to say TY to two of your cars for giving up their OEM plastic fuel lines. lol
We also replaced the accelerator cable with a B200 item as the B19 was too short. The B200 is too long lol. Mark sorted that easily enough whilst I was under the car though.

Then Mark and I went through the main loom (barrel) and worked a few things out. Engine loom is on and tomorrow we will start to splice the 940 loom into the 360, and hopefully have a look at making the downpipe. Luckily John has gave me a one he had lying about from when he bought his 16v turbo B230 from Johnny, so that should go a long way towards easing the pain! lol

Cheers guys!

[MCHUDD]

Hi mate.
Thats some work you are putting in on the car. Way over my head.
Hope it all goes well when finished.
Cheers Mark.