Nimminz' LSD GLT Daily - Part1

[340GLT]

Now you have the drive flange off unbolt the hub carrier which houses the bearing as a complete unit then get engineering company to press it out and refit bearing.
Adam

[Nimminz]

i managed to get the stub axle out yesterday, then took the bearing housing to a engineering place and they knocked the old one out and pressed the new one in for next to nowt. also managed to pull the inner race of the bearing off the shaft with pullers rather than have to cut it off. I re-fitted it all today, I used the nut on the end of the stub axle to pull it through the bearing (with drive flange attached) so as not to damage the bearing. Now haynes said to just tighten to 57ish nM, which i did, then just whacked the driveshaft on had a shower and drove it. I'm getting a thumping noise :/ Not entirely convinced its the bearing but it's a similar noise. Could be the diff running low on oil? i check it every 200 miles and top up as neccecary but i've not driven it for a couple of weeks so havn't checked it. only did 6 miles tonight. Or could the stub axle not be in all the way? i'd already fitted the brake drum and wheel before pulling the shaft through.

I'll check tomorrow if the brake drum is 'on' as much as the other and the diff oil. Also need to do the front radius arm mount as the bush cups have rotted off. Gear linkages need sorting desperately. Still waiting for volvo to get the gaskets to swap the g/box.

Dunno if i mentioned before but some little twat pulled the pinstripe off my drivers door. Anyway have started removing the rest tonight.

[mac]

Just a thought Matt - did you put the driveshaft back on the same way round? (could it be a worn CV joint now running in reverse).
Possible - something catching in brake.
Not likely to be diff oil, (diff would whine before knocking unless c/w tooth is chipped.
Damage to new bearing when refitting stub axle? (not likely as you "pull the stub through" against the bearing inner race)
Did you do the wheel nuts up? (joke).

Mac.

[Nimminz]

Cheers Mac,

not a clue if the drive shaft's back on the same way at all, could well be that! but i did look and the stub axle appears to be 3mm further out than the other :/ Will tighten it up tomorrow and see if it cures it, if not then replace the CV joint, assuming they are available somewhere ... I'll check. Cant think of anything in the brake that would make a noise, I've had em off since doing it and it all looked in order. When i re-fitted the bearing and was pulling in the sub axle, i'd re-fitted the wheel and had me brother to hold it and he was pushing, not to hard at all, on the wheel, doubt that could have damaged the bearing. Diff oil was fine, and still looks new, gearbox makes a hell of a noise, thus why i'm changing it. remember however I am using Atchi's LSD with a new c/w and old pinion but all looked fine at 1.5k after fitting it. Yup, wheel nuts all done up to the correct torque even (for the first time ever lol)

Made up some solid gear linkage brackets just got a couple of holes to drill in the 'plate' then cut all the cable ties currently in place and bolt them in Ambient temp guage stopped working, not the connection under the air filter housing, will look into it further later. Radiator's leaking out the top hose tube, i obvouisly removed it to aggresively at some point. Exhaust blows and knocks on the axle, brake fluid feels like it needs a change. I stuck a bottle of redex in the tank today, filled it to the top too. So working out my MPG over the last 536 miles since the last full tank (know it's not gonna be too accurate but hey) 24.6 MPG, not bad all things considered - oh yeah, need a new fuel filter, mines got '98 stamped on it lol. Might take the chance to block off the cold start injector when i find what thread the outlet on the fuel rail is. LH2.4's back on the ideas list too. Thinking of a crank pulley with the 60-2 pattern machined into it, be a custom thing but would be worth it to me not to have to take the torque tube off again.

Main thing now is to get the wheel bearing - or whatever the noise is - fixed, gearbox changed (stil waiting on gaskets ordered on x-mas eve from volvo), gearlinkages sorted and check all the suspension over.

Can't remember if i mentioned i'm planning a 5k trip round europe in the summer so the car needs to be 100% by then :/

Cheers,
Matt

[macplaxton]

So working out my MPG over the last 536 miles since the last full tank (know it's not gonna be too accurate but hey) 24.6 MPG, not bad all things considered.......Can't remember if i mentioned i'm planning a 5k trip round europe in the summer so the car needs to be 100% by then :/

I do remember you mentioning Euro trip - first time I've heard 5k mentioned though. That's an eye-watering amount of petrol.

It'll be worth it though

[classicswede]

Cheers Mac,

remember however I am using Atchi's LSD with a new c/w and old pinion but all looked fine at 1.5k after fitting it. Yup, wheel nuts all done up to the correct torque even (for the first time ever lol)

Tut Tut, crown wheel and pinion should always be changed in matched pairs. Not to say you can not get away with but it's not good engineering practice.

I suspect your new noise is where the bearing has not been pulled in fully.

Sounds like your got your work cut out sorting all teh niggles before the road trip

[Nimminz]

Cheers for the comments,

Yeah its gone up to 5k now, probably due to my lack of knowlege in places to go and things to see. I saw you can go for a guided tour of the factory in the netherlands, i know they'll be churning out smart cars and mitsubishi things but It's something to do The vauge plan is to go from newcastle via ferry to amsterdam, then down to where the factory is then over to germany and see if i can't have a go on the nurburg ring then over to poland to auschwits then back via a completely different route and either come back to amsterdam for the ferry home or hit france and go the tunnel approach. Thinking just after BKV sort of time to do this. Hopefully i might have LH2.4 in the car and that could save a bit of fuel. Still, will definately be worth it. If anyone knows anywhere / one i should visit while i'm over there let me know!!

Back to the massive list of things to do before hand, I took the driveshaft off today to see what could be done. I set the torque wrench to wahtever it says in the haynes, and turned the big 'ol nut. It clicked as expected, so another 20nm and it clicked again. So i really dunno if it's that. I get the thudding noise when turning left or going straight, gets louder the more left i go and quicker the faster i go. Makes no noise at up to 20mph. I had turned the wheels while they were off the ground and checked for noises, just a scraping sort of noise i expect is usual from the rear drums, wasn't difficult to turn em and both wheels turned the same direction (LSD). Sounds like the wheel bearing yes? I never even looked at it when i got it from the engineering place and i'm pretty sure i haven't damaged it myself. I did wobble the wheel and it feels like it has play. Also there seems to be a lot of 'backlash' i think the term is? where there is a gap between turning the wheel and it engaging with the resistance of the diff. Now that could be driveshaft CVJs? I have a spare driveshaft in unknown condition but I'll clean it up and check next time I can. If it looks OK I'll swap em over and see. Also i never shimmed the diff bearing carriers when fitting the diff. One bearing was new i think, and the other came off the '83 diff i had spare.

When I got given Atchi's LSD it came as the diff with C/W that looked like it was brand new - i'm not sure though. It could maybe have been cleaned or re-machined? I'm not 100% another c/w would bolt on but from looking at it it would. After attempted fitting it became clear it wasn't GLT ratio 3.64:1 so back to atchi and he gave me the diff casing and bearing carriers. The diff fitted lovely on the 3.82:1 pinion in said casing. I used the bearing carriers but didn't know which shim went on which side or if they were different at all. At the moment I'm getting a leak out of the o/s bearing carrier which i thought was down to a dodgy o-ring, could it be something else? more shims needed? I have no torque meter etc to work it out.

Also The wheel in question did come loose at one point due to missing stud and lack of tightenyness of teh wheel nuts, could this have chewed the wheel up a bit meaning it doesnt sit properly? the centre bore is a 'bit' big for the volvo centering ring and i have't gotten round to getting spigot rings. Just out of daftness today i dipped the clutch, stuck it neutral, just to make sure it was smething at the back. It was still making its thumpy noise so it's something between the pinion shaft and the tyres.

Problem now is the first chance i get to work on it is not till the 21st :/ If it's the stub axle not fully pulled through, will it need a new bearing again by then? I have to use the car daily.

Anyway,
In happier news, I got myself a NOS astrali steering wheel boss made for 300's that has the holes to stick the volvo horn ring in Now not 100% the mountney wheel will fit but i have an old astrali wheel somewhere or holes can be re-drilled

Also i replaced the boot struts last night, only problem is they dont quite retract enough when the boots shut to turn the light out :/ Will sort it with some tube at some point.

Any help very welcome!!
Matt

[classicswede]

By the sound of it you have not set the crown wheel and pinion up. There is a correct way of doing with feelers etc. However it should have been making a noise by day one unless you have now chipped a tooth. Not convinced that is the issue. Would be good to get it up in the air so you have a propper feel and listen to evrything.

[Nimminz]

it may have always made a noise, just always thought it was the wheel bearing. It has got worse recently however. I'm going to swap the wheels round tomorrow if i get time to rule out that, then i'll swap a driveshaft, if i'ts still no better then it will have to wait till i have more than a few hours in the day so i can swap the gearbox (which needs doing) and take the diff apart. I'm contemplating buying another gearbox and diff, then just use that crown wheel on the LSD. If the diffs are the same physical size which i would hope they are, and i swap the bearings, then it should work perfect.

It's been ages and ages since i could actually drive it without worrying something is going to brake, snap or grind it's way away

Got me gaskets from volvo with 10% off for 'VOC membership' whatever that is lol. Also picked up an amp for the 5x7's i bought.

Some photos from this year so far lol

Stub axle (yes i pulled that stud in)


Bearing housing with new bearing



'drive flange'




Where i have to work


On a more cheerful note, took some pretty ones today









Thanks for looking,
Matt

[trabitom99]

Some photos from this year so far lol

Cool photos Matt, you've definitely got talent for "putting a car in scene" (as they say in Germany ...)

Cheers

Tom

[Nimminz]

Cheers Tom!

Asked Atchi, The crown wheel is the Original volvo made one for the pinion. So the only parts changed is the diff it's self and one bearing which i presume was new

New looking bearing crown wheel side, supplied by Atchi with diff. and the other is off the '83 3.64:1 diff. Could fitting the bearings from the 3.82:1 diff who's c/w/p i'm using with the LSD, cure the problem if it is this? Or get 2 brand spankers (if available from anywhere) and fit them and find a way of re-shiming, accurately (if shims are available)

Anyway, will try tightening up the stub axle again tomorrow, forgot I'd loctited the splines as it said to do in the haynes (coudn't find the green book how-to).
Might split the '88 glt diff and box too, give things a clean while I'm at it.

Also how different can auxiliary air valves (B200E) be between different cars? i.e. a BMW one that looks identical but with a different bosch number? Only difference might be a degree or two in the opening / closing temps? or speed at which it opens? Must be better than a stuck one like mine?

LH2.4 will progress tomorrow as i'm puling the cat off the corsa, and pillaging the engine bay for connectors and have a look at the lambda, Air mass meter, knock sensors etc. etc. see if owt can be used. might even have a bosch ecu i can pull the connector off.

[Chris_C]

Matt, look up the green book for fitting a diff to the casing.

I ca'nt remember 300 specifics and have never done it, but it's something I would pay a man for on most cars, especially with the cost of that LSD above you when it cocks up. Just make it a good man.

[Evoman]

The AAV will probs work, they seem so inaccurate anyway, have you tried cleaning and adjusting yours yet?

[Nimminz]

I did chris, if you're simply removing and re-fitting, as I was, All that needs to be checked AFAIK is the 'preload' measured using a torque meter. Put a certain shim on both sides, check torque. Check this value against green book and add shims accordingly. Problem is, i have no torque meter, and shims are NLA according to my volvo dealer :/ but it is pretty straight forwards if your not changing the pinion

As the crown wheel is a volvo part I can swap the LSD into any diff so by my reckoning only lack of oil would harm the LSD, which i am making 100% sure won't happen. I'm thinking the noise i have is the wheel bearing like. Anyone know if the diff bearings are available? then i could find somewhere to make / get shims and do it properly with a torque meter. or failing that, use the bearing carriers, bearings and shims from my GLT diff on this one, i don't think it should make a difference? unless the different ratio's sit at different levels from left to right, if you get me.

I'm hoping it will, have tried all sorts with mine, it just seems to like sticking nearly shut I was gonna make a manual one using some sort of plumbing tap, some springs, a cable and a ratcheted lever inside the car lol

[Nimminz]

Well, Fitted the aux air valve yesterday and It seems to be really good, still a tad spluttery on startup for maybe 2 seconds then purrs lovely at 1000 rpm, raising to 1100 rpm a few seconds later. Set off down the road and after its warmed up a bit ... 900rpm Fitted the genuine NOS Astrali steering wheel boss today. Horn ring clipped on, wires soldered not twist-'n'-tape like usual and the mountney wheel fitted. Punched into the boss is 1979 all works lovely, have a horn and self-cancelling indicators had to go test the horn out driving round the 'studenty' parts of durham haha. Soldered some wires onto the 5x7's and decided i CBA taking teh c-pillar trim off and they're going in the parcel shelf but I'll make them look nice. Got some speakers the same size as the door ones and i'll put them in too. The 5x7's are being amp-ed onto the rear line out output of the stereo and the thing on the amp set to just low frequencies to get the bass. then the door-ones-sized ones are being put as rear speakers through the ISO plug to get the treble

Not attacked the noise at the back yet :/

Photos






It did have a plastic shroud that clipped on but it looked pretty tacky to tell the truth, I've got some flocked effect sticky back plastic i might try and see if can get it nice enough to stick in the car.