Nimminz' LSD GLT Daily - Part1

[Nimminz]

Not really fixed the gearlinkages yet but it's getting there, just need to swap my crap box section mounts for the OEM rubber ones that bolt to the torque tube.

Got some new additions :

Not wired in yet but still look cool as owt. Been replacing all the rusty screws for nice stainless ones

I've got some spherical bearings on the way to make some topmounts as the volvo ones are very long and CBA getting the top spring cup machined, and i can't afford camber plates for a BMW or S13. Getting the coilies welded by a place that does turbo's after talking to the bloke while i picked up a recon unit for our pajero. Think i've worked out how to work out what size springs to get, we shall see.

Got the CB mounted under the glovebox now. changed the rev limit to 5500rpm doesn't pop flames now with the standard exhaust though :/

Release bearing is making some horrible noises but it drives well and when you can find the gears it all seems to be working spot on. Have found it takes a bit to warm the gearbox up with having 10w40 in it.

Cheers,
Matt

[Nimminz]

Little update,
Getting the threaded sleeve welded on and am picking them up this afternoon Also found that i'll either have to get the top spring cup machined to fit a top mount bearing in or get some thinner topmounts. I chose the second option and bought some spherical bearings and holders that will be welded to a plate with the top mount PCD drilled in it. Overall it will be half the height of the standard topmount, leaving me plenty of room on the damper. A question for those running spherical bearing topmounts like the s13 camber plates, Do you need to use a standard topmount bearing aswell or does the sperical one sort that? I'm guessing i will but not gonna spend what i don't need to







Still really don't know what length spring to get, know i want 250 lb/in. What i'm after is so the car can sit at it's current ride height with plenty of room to go down further and a bit to go up. I'm having the 100mm threaded sleeve welded 25mm down from the top of the strut. Thinking I may have to use helper springs too.

Got some 'brake dust sheilds' which need bits cutting out and holes drilling but I'll wait til i have the brakes mounted.



pic of where the CB radio's mounted



My grandad decided to take it upon himself to rat look my car slightly using his Pajero :/



temp fix



Need a new ambient temp sensor too, the guage rises say 10 degrees for maybe a second then slowly falls back down when you turn the ignition on. Can't think it would be anything else.

Thanks for looking, any help on spring length's would be greatly appreciated
Matt

[macplaxton]

My grandad decided to take it upon himself to rat look my car slightly using his Pajero :/

Your granddad needs to decide to take it upon himself to hand his licence back in the not too distant future if he carries out driving manoeuvres like a dozy thingummyjig

[Chris_C]

Need a new ambient temp sensor too, the guage rises say 10 degrees for maybe a second then slowly falls back down when you turn the ignition on. Can't think it would be anything else.

Thats an earth problem, not the sensor. Work out from the green books how the electric flow changes when you turn the key to give you some ideas, but I'd suggest you have what I had that killed a couple of dashboards and the engine bay earthing through the instrument flexi (lots of 300s I've seen scrapped have the burnt track on the instrument panel)

[340GLT]

Matt, before you have the spring seats welded on, check that the spring will clear the tyre when fitted. I have to run spacers on mine, but that is with 8J wheels and the tube pulled through the hub to give me more travel.
I need to speak to you about these caliper brackets anyway, the leg and caliper will need to have thread inserts fitted for them to work.
Adam

[jon-ovlov]

Matt, I chatted to Gaz when I had my coilovers done, and they said I didn't need a second bearing, the spherical one in the s13 plates would suffice. I've been running them for a while now with no problems.

[MCHUDD]

Hi Matt.
CB radios, now that brings back a few memories
Back in the early eighties while working in a Hotel, we had a live in flat.
We would get plastered after work and slag of the republican scumbags
over in west Belfast on the CB radio
Brilliant fun
Cheers Mark.

[Nimminz]

Chris,
Hmm yes could be. I presumed that because the sensor will just be a variable resistor that it would be that as both wires were connected. I'll have a good look at the diagrams and a look under the dash and the back of the clocks. Recently the oil pressure and brake fluid lights that usually come on when you turn the ignition on and go out when it's running have dissapeared, thought i'd knocked the sensor when doing the exhaust but probably will be the same thing

Adam,
I checked and found the tyre wouldn't clear the bottom spring seat by maybe 2mm BUT that's only on the lowest part of the collar. I'm aiming to have it set to about where the standard spring seat is to get the current ride height which leaves me 1" to wind them down before i need spacers. I'm putting subaru studs in the new hubs anyway so won't matter. I thought the bolts looked small in the photo's on your thread. Hmm, dunno how I'd feel welding calipers or the cast part of the strut, or do you mean the one's that screw in to a tapped thread? either way sounds like I might get someone to do it for me, i can tap threads but those calipers were expensive. Give me a PM bout those brackets and what needs to be done to fit them

Jon,
Cheers, I'll see how these ones work. Once I have them made they'll probably be fitted to my current struts to test em out before the coilovers.

Mark,
I haven't had it in the car for a while and I'd forgotten how much fun can be had! Quite a lot of people on there round me seem to be hardcore radio enthusiasts who take things way too seriously haha, still, It's a laugh and you get some dead canny people on it from time to time

[Chris_C]

I presumed that because the sensor will just be a variable resistor that it would be that as both wires were connected. I'll have a good look at the diagrams and a look under the dash and the back of the clocks. Recently the oil pressure and brake fluid lights that usually come on when you turn the ignition on and go out when it's running have dissapeared, thought i'd knocked the sensor when doing the exhaust but probably will be the same thing

Yes, take the dash out

I found an old text document I was working on a few years back when I was doing my spring calcs this morning, it's what I *roughly* calc'd the spring rates of each model to be when I was looking into it (as green books only give coil dia and wire dia and length). I'll upload it for you later, take it with a pinch of salt and add it to your research.

[Chris_C]

Early 1.4 14997 N/m
Late 1.4 16947 N/m
1.7 19092 N/m
2.0 24021 N/m

All calced from green book (or for GLS/late GLT/1.7, Russek) wire dia, coil dia etc using

http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm

Thats what I found I'd written down

Seems like I didn't note the lengths, they are given in the green book. Rough conversion from N/M to lb/in is something like multiply by 0.00563817, which gives the 2.0 as 135lb. Doesn't look like I wrote down much about the differences between 2.0's either. I went with the valver is about the same weight as an 8valve redblock and then added some for my use compared to the family comfort use the car was designed for.

[Nimminz]

Cheers mate! not had chance to have a look at the earth yet, is it a fire hazard? i've been using the car daily and i paid a fortune for the flocked dash haha. Found there's a bullet connector on the end of a black wire that appears to have come off the alternator and also there's a yellow wire with a female spade connector near the CPS that comes out AFAIK the LE-loom and that's not connected to anything.

Not got my coilies back yet ... gonna have a pop up tomorrow. Then the plan is to get 5th gear back, reckon i must have put the linkage on the wrong way round and that's why its wedged between the handbrake cable bracket and torque tube, stopping me get 5th gear without pushing so hard on the lever that the torque tube moves sidways. This takes SOME force and can't be done while driving, thus why the 4k rpm rev limit just HAD to be moved lol.

[Nimminz]

So, got the coilover's back today ... I'll let the photos do the talking.





those are the worst bits, funnily enough most of the welds on the bottom of the threaded sleeve look ok. I'm thinking i should take them back and ask for at least a partial refund. I did pay for them as they didn't look too bad when i picked them up, it wan't expensive mind. I could just try sort them out myself. Had i known how they were going to turn out I'd just have done them myself on the gassless, as I'm sure it would be stronger

Going to get some plates lazer cut for the top mounts, then weld them myself.

Cheers,
Matt

[jon-ovlov]

Stuff trying to re do them gasless, especially on something so structural! Id take them back for a full refund, or get them to do it properly. There is NO penetration on those welds. They seem like theyd just fall off.

[classicswede]

The welds on the top are just sitting there doing nothing. You don't actualy need the top to be welded but the bottom part needs to be solid. TIG would have been the best way to weld them to avoid and lumps etc.

[miniswift]

Hi Matt,

What you need to do is to take it to them and tell them to fuse crap weld by using TIG.
If you are stuck, bring it over and I will TIG it for you.

Cheers
Atchi