Turbo 360: More potential shell ruining lol

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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by volvosneverdie » 17 Feb 2012 10:46 am

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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by macplaxton » 17 Feb 2012 11:03 am

Postman Plod, he's a miserable sod.

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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by L14MNP » 17 Feb 2012 01:55 pm

it's a template of a 4 pot caliper for me to size up. Second class stamp, but on a larger envelope. Apparently this needs to be sent first class only. :?
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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by volvosneverdie » 17 Feb 2012 05:38 pm

L14MNP wrote:it's a template of a 4 pot caliper for me to size up. Second class stamp, but on a larger envelope. Apparently this needs to be sent first class only. :?
Wey at least its not the balifs confirming your address man. Ive fallen for that one before. :lol:
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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by L14MNP » 18 Feb 2012 12:43 am

volvosneverdie wrote:balifs
:|

Not an update on the car as such, but will lead to more work being done on it.
I opened an Argoshield account at BOC, so now I can weld (I have no doubt it will make me better, and I need the practice!) with the proper stuff. Before I was using the big pub bottle of C02, without a regulator. Far from ideal!

Not much point in keeping this now, but I will lol.
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Much better.
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As I was tidying the garage after last night, I couldn't resist a little mock up now I know how to mount the column, thanks to Hell Drivers pic (damn thing bolts to the pedal box too lol). Shouldn't be too bad to move the column over and down, but I should probably wait until my quick rack stuff arrives to see if when connected to the rack it will foul the bulkhead.

I need to whack the gear lever in too, where I want the hydro seems like it's going to be a PITA...

Can centre the column, but can't do anything about the angle. Or can I, anyone know? Would love it to be arrow straight - and horizontal. :lol:
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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by macplaxton » 18 Feb 2012 02:37 am

You should be welding like a demon now. Argoshield (and whatever the triple mix Air Products does) is the dogs. I've never liked welding with CO2, always ends up looking like pidgeon poo when I try. There are some outfits that will do a certified bottle (cert is good for 5 years IIRC) for something like 70-odd quid and you just pay for the refills. Rental bottles can be a arse as one month you do shed loads of welding and then the next nowt, but you're still paying. Rental prices are such that there is not much in it between sizes and you get so much more in the next size up (a bit like buckets of Coke at the cinema :roll:). In the past I've had W and S size cylinders from BOC. Going to get a big one in shortly as I've quite a bit of rust elimination to do on the Dizzler and BB.

Keep the updates coming and let's see some of the Argoshield welds. sm40
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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by L14MNP » 18 Feb 2012 02:54 am

Cheers Rich. I will see how I get on, and post some stuff up. Pigeon shit is exactly how it was looking with C02, even worse without knowing what is coming out of the reg lol. Can't wait to start using this.

Sounds like an inbewteen deal to what you have described, £100 p/a bottle rental, and £60 or something for the bottle. Pricey, but as you will agree, worthwhile. i went for the next bottle size up from what FJ has, because like you say, price wise there isn't a great deal in it, but the amount of gas you get differs greatly.

Whack some pics up of your upcoming weldathon! At least you know the diesels fuel tank will be fine! :lol:
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Re: Turbo 360: Door & scuttle repairs

Post by L14MNP » 21 Feb 2012 10:04 pm

Been practicing tonight. Got the welder set up nicely for the material I was messing about with (an offcut of a V 300 A pillar/scuttle section) as confirmed by my dad who welds for a living. I have been running beads, puddling, repairing holes etc and all is welll. Using the correct regulated gas has improved results immeasurably. i am very pleased with that. The acqusition of a BOC account and bottle rental was a wise one.

Then we come to my age old problem. I cannot see!

When welding (thin stuff) I can't see the joint, I see the arc, the weld pool, the surrounding area etc but never the joint. As a result I will stray from it, or more often than not, miss it all together. To say this is infuriating is an understatement.

My garage has more than enough bright white halogen light, I have tried using French chalk on the joint, an additional halogen lamp, various auto-darkening helmets, and the results are always the same.

Tonight I wore my glasses, I am short sighted, but I don't feel I need them, hence barely ever wearing them. They made no difference.

The helmet I am currently using is a cool touch button Speedglas one where you can adjust sensitivity, reaction, something else, and of course shade - I have been using this between 9 and 10. 9 being the lowest setting, and still things remain basically the same.

It's my eyes at fault, I know this, but what can I do about it? I can weld, I have the technique, just not the requried vision!

My dad raised a good point just before. Maybe I should try darkening the shade, as he thinks it sounds like I am blinding myself. It is true that the arc is very bright. I have never thought of doing this, as my instinct when I cannot see is to make it ligther. That and the other two helmets only switch between 10-11, not 9-10-11-12 like this new one.

I will try this tomorrow (and he's going to have a look with me, see if we can work out what is going wrong.)


What do we think? I like welding, and I can do it. Just this 'small' problem stopping me!
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by volvosneverdie » 21 Feb 2012 10:15 pm

I do not recommend braille-welding.

What about kicking down the ambient light a bit.

If theres the flash, plus very bright ambient light, your eye could be too full of light.

Empty some light out of your eyes.
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by macplaxton » 21 Feb 2012 10:18 pm

I'd use a dark shade when having to view an electric arc. Your dad is probably right. Light up the work piece well, even with a hand-held lamp, so there is less contrast.

Alternatively maybe you could learn to follow a joint from one end to another just by remember where it was? :?

Maybe the guys over at the mig-welding.co.uk forum can advise?
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by Ride_on » 21 Feb 2012 10:27 pm

I've noticed problems with high light level behind you, it reflects of the inside of the screen. A close work light beside you is good, but open bulbs get killed by lumps of molten metal.

I normally use the auto-shield fairly light aswell, it varies from just being able to see the arc only to enough light to give you a headache, so the image is controllable enough.

Another problem is weld damage to the protection cover, which need changed every few weeks. You don't really notice it, but when you change it or look at the front you can see the damage and the image gets alot better.

You should be able to use the glowing tip to light the work area for a second or so when you pause or pulse weld.
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by macplaxton » 21 Feb 2012 10:49 pm

"...if thine eye offend thee, pluck it out, and cast it from thee..." Matthew 18:9

Personally, I don't think this is very helpful advice. 8)
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by Speedy88 » 21 Feb 2012 11:37 pm

As above it'd be worth getting a bright light to shine on the work surface. Alternatively learn to weld blind, it takes a bit of practice but once you've got it, you'll never forget
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by Chris_C » 21 Feb 2012 11:40 pm

I never understood all the stuff about "being able to see the pool, pulling the pool, following the joint" (ok, the last one I understand.. :lol: ) Just couldn't see them. Then a mate borrowed my helmet one day and agreed, it wasn't me, you really can't see through it. So we put a new (sheild? the protecty plastic thing) in, turned out that in all the mucking about I'd done before I got *any* skill, I'd just nuked the hell out of it, made it unseethroughable.
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Re: Turbo 360: WTD - welding advice

Post by L14MNP » 22 Feb 2012 12:39 am

volvosneverdie wrote:I do not recommend braille-welding.

What about kicking down the ambient light a bit.

If theres the flash, plus very bright ambient light, your eye could be too full of light.

Empty some light out of your eyes.
Could do with a dimmer mate!
macplaxton wrote:I'd use a dark shade when having to view an electric arc. Your dad is probably right. Light up the work piece well, even with a hand-held lamp, so there is less contrast.

Alternatively maybe you could learn to follow a joint from one end to another just by remember where it was? :?

Maybe the guys over at the mig-welding.co.uk forum can advise?
Will definitley be trying the dark shade tomorrow. Fingers fucking crossed it helps me out!

As for remembering, I don't like to (can't?) even when steadying my torch hand. I need to be able to see what's happening tbh.
When Googling, the mig-welding forum came up a lot, and most of the answers suggested a lighter shade. I plan to do some more searching on there shortly.
Ride_on wrote:I've noticed problems with high light level behind you, it reflects of the inside of the screen. A close work light beside you is good, but open bulbs get killed by lumps of molten metal.

I normally use the auto-shield fairly light aswell, it varies from just being able to see the arc only to enough light to give you a headache, so the image is controllable enough.

Another problem is weld damage to the protection cover, which need changed every few weeks. You don't really notice it, but when you change it or look at the front you can see the damage and the image gets alot better.

You should be able to use the glowing tip to light the work area for a second or so when you pause or pulse weld.
Hmmm, maybe I have too much light. I put up six four foot tubes and one square fitting with four two foot tubes in as I was tired of casting a shadow when working in certain areas. Seems you can't win!

I am going to play around with this Speedglas helmet as it is the business for adjustability. Like I say, I can see the arc fine - too well it would seem. I have plenty of covers too, so again not a problem. I know they get hammered though. Especially if you have your face close.

The problem with the pause to light the work area is when I just want to, say stitch weld, I am not staying in the same area for long enough to do that.
macplaxton wrote:"...if thine eye offend thee, pluck it out, and cast it from thee..." Matthew 18:9

Personally, I don't think this is very helpful advice. 8)
Disagree Rich. Sounds like Speedys advice below. :lol:
Speedy88 wrote:As above it'd be worth getting a bright light to shine on the work surface. Alternatively learn to weld blind, it takes a bit of practice but once you've got it, you'll never forget
Tried the light mate, does anybody read what you type? :lol: Welding blind you say? I find this practice no issue once the weld pool is visible and you can use it to light the area/follow the joint. Don't know how you would do it for short bursts when on thin stuff though??
Chris_C wrote:I never understood all the stuff about "being able to see the pool, pulling the pool, following the joint" (ok, the last one I understand.. :lol: ) Just couldn't see them. Then a mate borrowed my helmet one day and agreed, it wasn't me, you really can't see through it. So we put a new (sheild? the protecty plastic thing) in, turned out that in all the mucking about I'd done before I got *any* skill, I'd just nuked the hell out of it, made it unseethroughable.
Wish that was all that's wrong with my situation Chris! I have an old Esab auto-darkening helmet that was like, I had burned the shit out of the lense by not having a protector on it. Bet you were well pleased once yours were sorted!

Thanks all.
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