Firstly.. hello Just signed up here.. seemed the logical thing to do seeing as I bought a new toy.

I have "samueljons" old 340 , some of you might remember it (the one with a power drain and fuel pump issues). Well, it's still got a power drain and fuel pump issues lol.

Going to be a long term fixer upper this one, cos (no offence to previous owners) it's a bodgefest.
I've already removed 500kgs of cable ties so that increased the 0-60 time by about 1/100th sec. Also, the front wheels were hand tight and the balljoints weren't much better. Scary considering I drove it home from london 0.o
Need to get underneath it and work out whats going on with the exhaust. I think it's held up by an old clutch cable or something, so I'll get some hangers welded on soon.
Also, the handbrake is non existant.. perhaps the cable broke or it's just not connected.
Then there's the wiring.. it looks like someone emptied a box of wires in the engine bay. I'm sure it could be tidier. Also, I found a 1A (!?!!?) current drain with everything switched off. So I plan to get the volvo and renault wiring diagrams side by side and figure out a better way of fitting this lot. Also might solve the charging issue, which seems to be intermittant and it's way overcharging.. I got a reading of over 15 volts once.. smokey battery time lol.
And we move on to the fuel issue.. it was fine but recently I think somethings moved. Looking back on previuous threads I think there's just some kind of random pump thrown in? Perhaps it's easy to get at and I can come up with a better arrangement.

Help/advice/ suggestions is always appreciated. I'll get some pics up of the problem areas soon so you can see what I mean

ttfn

ok, photos...

Firstly, one of these 2 relays clicks when the battery is connected.. I would have expected it to be an ignition live thing?


The other end of what appears to be a custom loom (one of Adams?) .. all I have here is a red which is tacked into the starter live, a white that just goes to an empty spade connector and the screened lambda wiring.


The 2 arrowed wires both go to the alternator. They seem to attach to the standard volvo loom. One is blue/red, the other red. Could these be the wrong way round? Anyone tell me which is which?


The blue wire here seems to be for the fuel pump. Mine is on a switch, where I would have expected it to be controlled by a relay on the injection system somewhere?


Hmm, nice beer can.. but it looks tatty. The pipe next to it is like an overflow, so whats this one supposed to be? Surely it doesn't need 2? Can't I just blank it off?


I opened this and foung the fuel sender.. but no pump. Guessing it's just thrown in the tank? Very strange. My idea is to get a tank from a fuel injecxted 360.. would that work or am I making it harder?

Hi mate! Great to see the car has gone to a good home!

The beer can hose should actually go to the stat housing, and acts as like you said, an overflow, so the excess coolant goes from the engine/stat and back into the expansion tank.

I remember telling Sam (the lad who previously had it) about wiring stuff up, looks like half of it isn't there I can get shots of mine when it stops raining and tell you what goes where (I'm using Adam's loom). The alternator wires, when the car is running, is the dash battery light on or off? It should obviously be off, but if it isn't, it could be a duff alternator. I went through a few I say alternator because that's what charges the battery too, so it could be over-charging if your getting 15V +.

The white wire that's attached to nothing is either for the speed sensor or fuel pump. Though I'm not sure, I'll have to check.

As for the fuel pump, that's the standard sender unit, but I don't know how Sam is getting fuel to the engine pump wise. With it running, see if you can hear anything whirring, that'll be your pump. AFAIK the 360 tank is a different fitting to the 340 one, but I've never seen one off car before. Its a very different shape though. I use one of Adam's pump/sender units, and it's fantastic. Otherwise an out of tank in-line pump would do the trick, or an evo pump. I know a few lads on here use them.

Once i know more I'll give you a shout!

Hope that helps a little.

Elloos

Umm, stat housing? lol I bet thats bunged up, or maybe it has another beer can on it. I'll have to check

If you could explain the wiring, that would be a big help.. just so I can double check it all. Was gonna get the diagrams, but your way is quicker. When the engines running, the battery light is on most of the time. It occasionally goes off (thats probably when the 15v charge kicks in). Normally, I'd say alternator but it has only just been changed so thinking something else is afoot.

White wire? hmm, would make sense if it was for the fuel pump cos mines just on a switched ignition live. Saying that the idle is all over the place too, so it could be the speed sensor.

I can definitely hear a pump somewhere. For all I know it could be outside the tank. I need to get my head under the car and have a look.

Yo, nice car. Glad this one was given another chance

I'm a real noob at electronics but does this have a voltage reg? That could be causing overcharing.

it may have, I was thinking any regulator would either be built into the alternator or be part of the volvo loom? usually it's built in to alternators I think.

Ye good to see its getting a second chance. gd luck btw im shite with electronics

The voltage reg is in the alternator yeah. It could well be the alternator though. I don't mean to be annoying or anything, I had a problem with alternators too, where I got a brand new one, and the light still wouldn't go off, so I got a faulty new one, and the one after that. I went round with a volt meter for ages, to find it was that again. That's the only thing I can suggest, is go round with a volt meter. I was 3rd time lucky with my alternator.

The stat (sorry, thermostat, controls coolant flow through the engine) housing is at the back of the engine, next to the distributor. http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 13&t=11630 Have a look through that thread, scroll down and you'll find an image of the clio stat housing. You might have an R19 housing, but they are essentially the same, just the very large pipe goes the other way on the R19 one.

Of course you can hear a pump somewhere, the car wouldn't work otherwise But in all seriousness, it sounds like both the pump and speed sensor aren't connected right. Does the pump spin when the ignition is on (when the engine isn't starting) and then stop? It should do. If not (ie it just carries on spinning), its not connected properly.

I'll grab some pics tomorrow of my wiring set-up.

Just a quick point. You'll know the alternator wires are the wrong way round, as one spade connector is bigger than the other. They are on mine at least . . .

Re idle, how is the idle air control valve plumbed in? Mine wouldn't idle straight until the ICV was plumped into the same hose as fed the throttle body from the main air filter.

Don't ask me why, but it needs more restriction there than you'd imagine, I was lucky and my MOT man knew clios, he put his hand over the bodge I had before that and my idle went from 500-2500 random to 850rpm straight.

wow so many replies.. thank you everyone

i'll try and cover one at a time.

alternator.. yes maybe a good point, it could just be buggered. I'll grab a reading straight from the live pin on it and go from there. As for the spade connectors, guessing they could only be wrong if they have been installed wrong (i.e. the wrong wire joined to the wrong size spade).

So, if I find the thermostat housing, there should be a small take off somewhere that the overflow pipe should attach to? I'll go hunting for that when it stops raining

Fuel pump.. it's connected to a swtich thats on the ignition live. So totallt wrong. No speed sensor at all and just stays on for as long as the ignition and the switch are on.

Idle valve.. honestly I have doubts if I even have one. I'll have a look around , but giving the current level of cowboyness I think it's gonna be missing. Would explain the all over the place idle

Just to add.. I'm usually good with electrics, but have no wiring diags to work from yet. I found this pic fron andy, but it's missing the colour codes?
Amnyone know those to save me cracking open the ecu connector?

You could fit a 360 tank but you'd need to fit a 360 gearbox and torque tube too, way more work than it's worth. Plus the pump lives outside the tank on all standard 300s, injection models included.

Updates

I think the tank idea is dead now lol.. really no point in swapping that lot over.

I found the air control valve .. it's on a pipe that goes between the plenum and the base of the air filter


As for the overflow hose.. I found the stat housing, but there's nowhere to put it? (the green arrows just show 2 ends of the same pipe, for those that didn't know)
the black arrow seems to be a sensor thats not connected. Guessing it's not used?


Also, anyone know what this is? It's part of the volvo loom. My guess is an earth, but for what?


last Q .. is there an idle speed adjustment? cos mines slightly low now

T.J. wrote:As for the overflow hose.. I found the stat housing, but there's nowhere to put it? (the green arrows just show 2 ends of the same pipe, for those that didn't know)
the black arrow seems to be a sensor thats not connected. Guessing it's not used?

Sensor I can see there is water temp sender for the dashboard gauge. That yellow wire is part of the orig Volvo loom.

Photo 3- Earth, is the earth that goes to the small earth stud on the alternator. You can spot it as the orange wire is the renix ground wire (which should now be your clio coilpack ground)