Ride_on wrote: up to around 250bhp.

When the car is finished, I might be exceeding that a wee bit...

Ride_on wrote:Interesting clamp, have you got a price and supplier? Very interested to hear how it holds up.

At the moment it's a one-off. And actually it is the third he made for me, the first two got scrapped because he was not satisfied with them. I did ask him whether he would do more if there was a demand. He basically said yes, but only if he gets to make at least 20 of them, because its a pain in the ass . Pricewise it was not cheap, I coughed up 270 €. But cheaper than heaving that part failing...
If there is enough interest, I'd be happy to get a group buy organized. Hoewever, first of all I have to know how much trouble the assembly will be, and then I will stress-test it using a bit of torque. Given my current rate of progress, that might take some time.

Ride_on wrote: I did think that normal steel was stronger than stainless, stainless is brittle, but the oversize may compensate, and the bigger bolts less critical on torque.

I don't worry about that, I forgot the exact specification but he used steel that is used for high performance drive shafts. Something 1400 something strength. He builds quite a lot of parts for the drag racing nutters here in Germany...

Tiny Update: after two years of resting (other f***ing projects reqruiring all my spare time) I have managed to get her back on the road, and to participate in one GLP on the Nordschleife - in the dry - Yeehaw! Lots of fun, even if i had to use my "wet-Options" uniroyal Rain Sport in 175/70/13 in the dry (don't ask... seriously woobly sidewalls..turn in, and wait.... oh, is something happening? Every corner required stragical planning)

On the upside... apparently there's a LSD on my 360. I had never bothered to check before, because they are so rare and the car has always been a pensioner's first choice, being despoilered, debadged and de-decaled... but the rear wheels only turn into the same direction, and there is a sticker on the gearbox that I have ignored before (see below...) So apparently its a clutch-type Hör Diff
And a clutch-type LSD does explain her peculiar behaviour - seriously tail happy in the wet, and a tendency to suddenly snap into turn-in in the dry, when the clutch-type LSD abruptly opens and she increases turn in. What a bag of surprises this "343-500" has been

I am still waiting for confirmation from Hör, but apparently there's nobody left who would know anything about their 80' products...

That's amazing news, what a surprise find! HÖR LSDs are extremely rare. AFAIK only the Swiss "RSX-2"s had them as standard. Did your car originally come from Switzerland?

Cheers

Tom

I think the car has first been sold by Auto Gerb in southern Bavaria. Fahrzeugschein and Fahrzeugbrief are as I would expect for any german Erstauslieferung, but I am not too sure what the signs would be (other than lots of zeros for reimports). Do you know any give away?

The car has been built in 1986, is MY 1987 and has first been registered in 07/1987. So far I am guessing that Auto Gerb specced the car (for some reason including the LSD, maybe so that it's really sporty and appealing to young hotshots) and then had it sitting in the showroom for ages. Then Mr. 100 years old lurches into the showroom, says: I like that car, but all that bling is not appropriate. Far too revolutionary, especially that spoiler! While you're at it, drop the decals, and those wheels are far too sporty for my wife!
Since the car had not shifted in a year, Auto Gerb was only too happy to oblige. But that's just guesswork

Very good, but what is LSD and why is it legal in Switzerland ;-?

@bogbasic

AFAIK, limited slip diffs are ordered quite a lot in alpine areas too. So if it originally came from southern Bavaria, that could be a clue.

Good find, anyway!

Cheers

Tom

bogbasic wrote:Very good, but what is LSD and why is it legal in Switzerland ;-?

As Trabitom said, they prefer LSD because of their problems with all that snow

Time for a bit of action: Pics from the GLP on 06.08. Brilliant weather - a dry, sunny Nordschleife is just so much fun.

Great pics! Looks like fun

Finally got around to painting the remaining front spoiler white and did a Nordschleife track day. Brilliant wheather, parly damp track.

Karussell - need different springs. Right front wheel touching the upper part of the inner wheel arch. Continuously.

Group 1 parked on the Doettinger Höhe between stints. Spot the ugly duckling
Quite smooth lap, trying to preserve brakes
And with a very nearly totally stock engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJqaQW8xQ5I


Still undecided what to do about the brakes - but that will be the most important mod for next season.

And in case you were wondering - Skandix sponsors our Volvo Trophy. Of course, I would be happy to accept sponsorship from Dai and RJ

I take you are running standard brakes and not allowed to increase size? I'm interested to know what the limits are with improving the standard ones.

I see you have ducts from the fog lights and running alloys. I also presume you are running new fluid each race, and race pads. After that you could add a recirc valve. Painting the inside of the wheel matt black might have a little benefit too (although probably already dirty). Maybe more open wheels.

Brake recirc valves are not well spoken of, possibly due to the risk of valve failure, but another thing I came across was water spray.

Braided hose might also help a little. Maybe some heat sinks/fins to better remove the heat from pads or caliper.

You can also fit a brake cooling wheel covers that go on the wheel, sort of a turbine that as it spins forces air over the brakes.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brake ... e&ie=UTF-8

Brakes, I am now facing the same problem for the next track day. My local track is very hard on brakes, 2 straights braking from 110-40 and a few 80-40 corners. The problem was not fade as such, its more lifetime and perhaps failure risk. The pads look burnt and seems to last maybe 2 x 15 min stints, also disks very scored, and edges of the pads have chunks out. I had to back off and drop the boost to last out after seeing the amount of wear in the first stint.

Running
Standard calipers and disk (new Brembo disks, and refurbed calipers)
New fluid, Ferodo DS2500 pads
B230FT, 11psi
5 spoke open alloy wheels, 6.5x15"
Standard back plates (modified MGB versions) to 300 shape with the 2 slots.
Standard GLT ride height

I would say I was braking as hard as possible etc

The DS2500 worked fine on the previous track (Mondello Park, short version) which had 330C calipers in the padock, but not running over boost.

2 things I am considering are
-Further pads upgrades, maybe EBC orange or Blue, Blue is better in theory but not recommended for small disks for some reason. Orange might be an upgrade on the Ferodo 2500 and still road legal.
-More air cooling, maybe a solid duct around the wheel inner to get fresh air from beside the wheel.

Of that cooling is probably the more important.

Ride_on wrote:Brakes, I am now facing the same problem for the next track day. My local track is very hard on brakes, 2 straights braking from 110-40 and a few 80-40 corners. The problem was not fade as such, its more lifetime and perhaps failure risk. The pads look burnt and seems to last maybe 2 x 15 min stints, also disks very scored, and edges of the pads have chunks out. I had to back off and drop the boost to last out after seeing the amount of wear in the first stint.

Running
Standard calipers and disk (new Brembo disks, and refurbed calipers)
New fluid, Ferodo DS2500 pads
B230FT, 11psi
5 spoke open alloy wheels, 6.5x15"
Standard back plates (modified MGB versions) to 300 shape with the 2 slots.
Standard GLT ride height

I would say I was braking as hard as possible etc

The DS2500 worked fine on the previous track (Mondello Park, short version) which had 330C calipers in the padock, but not running over boost.

2 things I am considering are
-Further pads upgrades, maybe EBC orange or Blue, Blue is better in theory but not recommended for small disks for some reason. Orange might be an upgrade on the Ferodo 2500 and still road legal.
-More air cooling, maybe a solid duct around the wheel inner to get fresh air from beside the wheel.

Of that cooling is probably the more important.

Why not ventillated disks? apart from it requires new calipers...