So radiator leak fixed with a far superior T-Bolt Hoseclamp!

Topped up with yet more fresh fuel but still getting the same symptoms. Upon application of the throttle I get a massive flatspot, which can be avoided if gradually applying the power... it's as if the accelerator pump isn't working but I've operated this manually and get a decent jet of fuel out of the pump nozzle now that the diaphragm is working correctly.

I guess it still could be a case of crap old fuel in the lines but I wondered if anyone could give any suggestions? I took a quick video to demonstrate, always hard to tell from these things - it sounds more pronounced in person but you get the idea.... car is cold and choke is on. Never know... it might be obvious to someone who has a clue about carbs, FWIW it did the same with the airbox and pre-heater hose connected also

https://youtu.be/kMve-XLGIFQ

Could the carb not be adjusted right so it is lean? Maybe try putting a bit of choke on and see if it helps the situation.

You have probably replaced all of the ignition components already but a weak spark could be another problem.

Could well be adjusted incorrectly.... choke was on in the video and it does obviously improve things as I don't think it will quite idle once warm without choke, so I think it is a lean situation. I noticed the cap/plug covering the mixture screw on the carb base is missing - is this a massive deal!?

Plugs and leads are new, dizzy cap and rotor arm aren't but are free from corrosion.

Strangely this hesitation has all but gone today?! Perhaps it was actually crap fuel and the fresh fuel I've put in is now in circulation. I'm having trouble getting it to idle when hot though.... any tips? I believe this is an earlier version of the Solex Cisac 34/34 with the additional idle speed screw below the idle solenoid.

When you say troubless getting it to idle what does it do? I will ask my dad what he thinks it might be, he is a wizard with webers and su carbs so he might have an idea.

I was going to say ignition, so still suspect that, dizzy and and rotor are service parts and the coil may need cleaned or there could be bad contacts on the renix-coil spring contacts. A set of 4 plug lights is cheap and good for diag.

Have you placed a spark plugs to the block and cranked it to see what colour spark it is?

You may be right on the ignition front... I thought I'd check the condition of the spark plugs (they were new...) but I noticed the leads don't feel very positive when 'clicking' into the top of the spark plug... I have a suspicion that number 4 wasn't in place correctly. Seems too much of a coincidence that it's been ok since!

Got some good instructions from mac with some base settings to set the carb up so will give that a go this weekend, now I can get it hot without coolant falling out of the top hose. Them T-Bolt Hose clamps are excellent.

Thanks to advice from Mac I finally got the GLS idling correctly when hot and driven it up and down the private access road behind our house a few times... seems to be working pretty well so far. It's really hard to gauge without bringing the speed up and putting the car under load but I guess I'll have to book an MOT for that! Gave the GLS and GLT a wash...

Theye look so good, would be good to come and have another nosy sometime. Glad you got it all sorted and hopefully the MOT presents no troubles.

Bad news... think I need to drop the fuel tank!

Despite having an inline fuel filter dirt is still somehow getting through and blocking jets in the carb (again!). Any tips appreciated and recommendations of tools, I believe I'll need a 6 sided 10mm socket for the driveshaft bolts, is there room for 1/2" drive sockets or 3/8" only? Also does anyone know the allen head size for the torque tube link piece.

I'm figuring... exhaust off (is this necessary or will it make things awkward if I don't??), handbrake cables detached, driveshafts undone, unhook gear linkage from the box, undo side mounts on the diff, undo t/t link piece and t/t bolts? I take it the tank is just held up with the tank straps mounted to the chassis somewhere?

I bought a spare fuel tank and sender from an '88 GLE which HASN'T been sat around for years, so upon careful inspection of that I hope to just swap them over.

Hi,

I'm not shure for 360, but in 340 models you find in the trunk under the carpet an opening to get access to the fuel gauge.
I opened it, and removed the gauge. Then I could access the tank through the hole (for draining etc.).

Have you tried to drain the fuel tank and clean it this way ?

Regards
Ralf

On the 360 the opening for the fuel sender is under the rear seat and it actually doesn't look too bad under here, I have already previously drained the tank from the link pipe which is the lowest point and again there wasn't any obvious debris but seems as though there's a noticeable amount being pulled through even past the inline fuel filter I have fitted.

Unfortunately unlike the 340 tank the 360 tank is an odd shape and I wouldn't be sure of the effectiveness of cleaning it via the fuel sender hole.

I think the only realistic solution is to drop the tank

Is it definitely the jets getting blocked? I never actually was sure what caused my problem with the green GLS, the filter on the tank inlet was certainly badly messed up with gunk which was also preventing the fuel sender from working. Although by the time I changed it, the car never did the fuel starvation thing again after the first couple of times. I think a flake of crap must have sucked against the inlet pipe and later broken up. I must get it M.O.T.d ready for the meet!

I recently discovered there is no swirl pot in the carb tank, so you can drain it effectively via the link pipe but 'sand' won't come out easily. The filter on the sender should stop it, its easy enough checked via the back seat. Hammer and chisel to open the sender.

You might have some rust in the tank or need a new filter on the pick up. I have a spare one here but havn't checked it yet.