I'm not 100% sure it's definitely blocking jets but that's what I'm thinking. It was running well, then started to run like crap and I noticed there are some bits caught in the inline filter - so I left the thing in annoyance I need to have a closer look to confirm for sure.

I did originally have a look at the fuel sender and cleaned the filter on the end once before (and replaced them cloth hoses) but it might be worthwhile having a further look, but I reckon there's rust in the tank and there isn't really much of a way to sort that without removing it!

Definitely get the green GLS MOT'd, would be good to see it out at the National Doesn't look like this GLS will make it but should hopefully be there in the GLT.

I remember hearing somehwere you can get a special petrol resistant paint or coating of some sort that you pour in to the tank and it sets rock hard so any crap in the bottom can no longer be sucked up.

I'm hoping to make it this year as I actually have a road legal car now. It's a 2003 skoda fabia vrs so how welcome I will be is another question I was hoping g to come along in my 84 GLE but that is sorned now and is next in the queue for restoration.

360beast wrote:I remember hearing somehwere you can get a special petrol resistant paint or coating of some sort that you pour in to the tank and it sets rock hard so any crap in the bottom can no longer be sucked up.

I'm hoping to make it this year as I actually have a road legal car now. It's a 2003 skoda fabia vrs so how welcome I will be is another question I was hoping g to come along in my 84 GLE but that is sorned now and is next in the queue for restoration.

You can use POR15 stuff, i would check it out or even the eastwood stuff

If you have access to such a device as a hoover that can deal with wet stuff (vax etc) then put a few gallons of fuel in the tank, agitate the tank violently and then stick the hoover nozzle in via the access/sender/pump/whatever hole and suck up all the liquid. Then use whatever proprietary sealing product you want to swill around the interior of the tank to seal it all.

Ahhh, I hear you moan in your best Brummie, whorrabout all that petrol I've wasted? Well, drain it from the hoover into a suitable container using a fine filter and you can then use it!

V6 Man wrote:If you have access to such a device as a hoover that can deal with wet stuff (vax etc) then put a few gallons of fuel in the tank, agitate the tank violently and then stick the hoover nozzle in via the access/sender/pump/whatever hole and suck up all the liquid. Then use whatever proprietary sealing product you want to swill around the interior of the tank to seal it all.

Initially I thought what an idea......but then hell no!!
All of the vapours will pass the sparks in the electric motor......

It is better to get some gravel, put that in the tank and start sloshing that to loosen the dirt inside.
Get all of the gravel out and either blow all of the other stuff out with compressed air or wash it out with a hose.
If you do it on a hot day, the moisture will evaporate before rust sets in so that it can be coated afterwards.

Hmm yeah, I'm not so sure on the wet vac idea - not that I have one anyway! I also don't think you'd be able to clean/coat the tank properly without being able to rotate it around freely, necessitating the removal of it from the car . I need to take another look at the fuel sender area as funnily enough when moving it the other day the fuel gauge has stopped working (it was fine before!), similar to Andy's 360's issues - so perhaps that suggests some debris has moved.

As said, I do have a spare non-gummed fuel tank from an '88 GLE which I believe will be the same so I should hopefully be able to just swap it over. It should be easier than faffing about with gunked up old fuel deposits and rust. Tempted to coat the inside with POR-15 though to prevent any future issues, I'll decide when I've had a good look at it's current condition internally.

It'll have to take a back seat for a couple of weeks as I'm away and need to change the diff gasket on my GLT before the V3M National

I used POR cleaner and rust treatment on my tank and several coats of POR chassis black on the outside. I considered using sealer inside until i spotted the swirl tank in the GLT tank and thought id better not


The hoover idea is just plain hilarious, thanks for making me chuckle

That's a good point regarding the GLT tank. My GLS tank wont have that swirl pot setup so should be ok, though I'm still a bit concerned whether it's possible to get a good coat because of the shape of the tank.

Do you have any details of the products you used on yours?

Right, with the weather getting marginally better and wanting this bloody thing on the road this year I better get the tank out!

Have a few questions to the experts

- Does anyone have VADIS and can confirm whether a carbed fuel tank is the same between a 1985 360 GLS fitted with the B200K and a 1988 360 GLE saloon fitted with the same engine. I'm guessing yes... the idea is to 'refurb' my spare tank and swap them over.
- Is it absolutely necessary to remove the gearbox? Can I swing the whole drivetrain down enough to remove the tank without disconnecting the gearbox from the torque tube.
- If trying the above method can the rear axle remain in place?

I'm not adverse to removing the gearbox from the torque tube but I suspect it'll be a complete pain in the ass to re-fit on my own.

Hi Steve,

SteveP wrote:- Does anyone have VADIS and can confirm whether a carbed fuel tank is the same between a 1985 360 GLS fitted with the B200K and a 1988 360 GLE saloon fitted with the same engine. I'm guessing yes... the idea is to 'refurb' my spare tank and swap them over.

I just checked the parts catalogue.

3280549-1 B19A CH -709999
3287671-6 B19A CH 710000- and B200K
3288243-3 B19E and B200E

So it does look like carb'd 360s have different tanks compared with the injected cars ...

Cheers

Tom

Thanks for the info Tom!

I knew carbed cars had different tanks to the injection cars (injection tanks have a swirl pot and different fuel pickup, I believe), but wasn't sure whether they differed across years even with the same engine. Looks as though the B19's are different again, not so much of a surprise there as the fuel sender is different also.

The good news is I can get the 'spare' tank cleaned internally, paint it all up and then swap it all at over in one 'hit'!

Hi Steve,

only the early B19s will be different, I guess it's probably not relevant for the UK market as CH 710000- is 1983 model year onwards ...

Look forward to seeing how you get on!

Cheers

Tom

For anyone still following my glacial progress on this....

I've removed the old tank and prepped a spare tank ready to go back in, just waiting on a couple of deliveries of fuel hoses and a diff gasket kit from Mac. Thought it prudent to replace the diff gasket, bolts, oil and gearbox oil while the box is out.

Pics to follow of the state of the original tank, its worse than I thought now I've been able to tip it up

Wicked work - keep it up ;-0

It's finally all back together and driven it briefly on a small private road, having issues with the Renix unit (no spark, something internal as the Mac guide ruled out the rest), so was testing it with one removed from my old GLT. Managed to source a replacement '406' unit thanks to Pete Farrell. Turns out it's quite rare being 1985 specific B200K with changeup light.

Ought to be able to go for an MOT shortly, only concern will be if the carb is set up right and if the exhaust will pass, it's original and pinholed in a couple of places. Have bodged it for now hoping it will be enough to get through so I can get a stainless middle and rear section made up.