MCHUDD wrote:Hi mate.
I hope you gave him that case of cider for doing all that work
Cheers Mar.

The cider is his anyway, I'm sure allowing him to work on such a magnificent specimen of a Volvo is reward enough

You got one of those gauge panels too!!! I guess we're on even playing ground now... except I've 4 different sets of wheels and a full dohc motor...

Logan360 wrote:You got one of those gauge panels too!!! I guess we're on even playing ground now... except I've 4 different sets of wheels and a full dohc motor...

I have 5 sets of wheels, leather, air con, B230ET with the flywheel and loom oh and a hella grille Even ground I think not :p

Man that sounds so anoraky reading that list back

Well these last couple of months have been very distracting, two family bereavements, a baby on the way and college have been slowing me down but the last few days I had a good go at the 360 rust repairs, I will add photos in the next couple of days but the boot was even more rotten than I first thought... Not anymore though... Almost

The rear right drum brake was poorly adjusted, I couldn't spin the wheel by hand with the handbrake off. So I adjusted the drum brake and I adjusted the handbrake as it was way too tight.

I fitted new Delphi oil dampers to the back, the old ones were gas as one slightly returned still and the other was completely shot. The dampers were a pita to fit as the threaded section was 10mm shorter then the ones that came off and the new bushes were 5mm taller so in the end I had to cut about 5mm off the bushes to get them to fit.

I cut the rust out while my Dad fabricated a new panel to be welded in.







Sprayed weld through primer on it and drilled holes to plug weld the two panels together.



New panel welded in.



Fillered, sanded and primered.



Then repeat the other side.







Cut the back panel off, I have a NOS one so I wasn't worried about ruining this one in the process of taking it off.



I thought this part would come in handy at some point (didn't realise how quickly though) so weld through primered it after removing the rust and treating it.



I cut a big rotten section out which had a stiffening curve in it, we then realised that the bit of the numberplate panel we saved was the right length and shape and had a curve in it that would act as the stiffening section, so I hammered the curve on the opposite edge flat and there we had it, a very quick and hassle free repair panel which just needs welding in now.



You can see in this photo I spilt half the bottle of kurust on the floor!



Now I just need to deal with this


and this



New dampers and bushes



Then I dealt with spider rust on the rear of the car





It was the same on the other side but a bit worse so I have sanded it down and treated it, just needs painting and then underseal but no photos of this as it was when I knocked the kurust over so was a bit occupied with not painting myself

Verbal update only.

My Dad cut the rust out of the chassis... That's it

I have bought a set of B230FD pistons 9.8:1 compression ratio so a decent upgrade for the ET which has 9.1 compression.

I will do an engine rebuild of my B230ET and fit it as a N/A engine until I can afford the insurance on a turbo.

What power would people expect from a B230ET (531 head and A cam) running on the standard 360 management with 9.8:1 compression?

Hard to say, basically a 2.3 360, say 125 bhp. LPT is 135 with 4.5psi but lower mechanical compression.

Suspect it'll probably run like crap... LE Jet just simply isn't clever enough to fuel for the differences. I'm sure it'll run in a fashion but surely you won't want to be pulling out the engine twice to fit the LH flywheel the second time around? I'd just stick with the B200E 'til you can swap the lot out in one go.

I would expect the LE will be fine, I'd be surprised if it could not handle 125bhp. It only cares about air flow and will fuel accordingly.

The flywheel is for the ignition, that is another story. What compression are you comming from? You might need to invoke the retard pin (if available) or use a different renix if you get pinking or knocking. This why I kept standard B230FT keeping the original volvo tuning.

360beast wrote:

Logan360 wrote:You got one of those gauge panels too!!! I guess we're on even playing ground now... except I've 4 different sets of wheels and a full dohc motor...

I have 5 sets of wheels, leather, air con, B230ET with the flywheel and loom oh and a hella grille Even ground I think not :p

Man that sounds so anoraky reading that list back

Insert rude hand gesture here. I ditched the ac setup in the 360, that's what a sunroof is for lol. I've the 234, 2 supra turbos, full dohc loom, front to tail lights, and a flex plate to get a 360 wheel machined down to. So a lighter flywheel. But you get me on that Hella grill.

When I fit the turbo I will pull the engine anyway as I want to get the head fitted with bigger valves then, mmmm big valve 531 plus I am going to use Motronic not LH.

I was thinking along the same lies as you Ride-On surely the AFM will just open slightly more to compensate for the greater vacuum?

The current engine is an extremely healthy B200E with 10:1 compression so it won't be dropping that much only by 0.2:1

@Logan, I think I get you on the flywheel too, I want to get mine machined down too, I just don't need to get one made first haha. Also that's what sunroofs are for until the fragile plastic blocks break and then you have a rust trap

Insert rude hand gesture here, throw in some expletives for good measure.

Logan360 wrote:I ditched the ac setup in the 360, that's what a sunroof is for lol...

Oooh ... keeping some of the rarer bits I hope? The compressor bracket and dashboard switches?

Cheers

Tom

nice pics

Thanks JFB I haven't updated this for ages I have been too lazy. I have finished the rear and it is back together. The new drivers side sill is welded on and in primer, the drivers rear wheel arch is fixed and was almost finished in paint but the can ran out so it ended up being to silvery.