It seems I can do simple things hard way
Off I did go to test if leak is gone, while cleaning all oil remains from yesterday I did notice that black plastic thing that is between carb and manifold had something which did look like a crack, hard to see, so I take off the carb, clean that plastic part and examine it closer, no crack.
As I had taken carb away, it was then good time to check how badly warped this high mileage carb was.
It was indeed quite bad, amazing how well engine was running with that, so I decided to get other carb and check how things were with it and almost perfectly straight. Of course that other one had no idle at all last summer, but still decided to install that which is car's original carb. Just in case did blow every hole of carb with compressed air, then took jets, emulsion tubes, heater, idle cut off solenoid and idle jet cover, spring + gasket from high mileage carb, to be just sure that only thing I change is carb body with throttle flaps, I took even top plate from high mileage carb. Also I did install new o-ring for idle solenoid and took one o-ring from high mileage carb as original carb was missing one, it was small one that is near emulsion tubes.
Quite lot of cleaning, also put instant gasket between carb and 1st gasket as did use old gaskets to put all back together, will install service kit when I get book that ordered so that nothing will go wrong, kit was so madly expensive
Could not remember base settings of idle mixture and idle rpm screws so turned both open 6 turns from the bottom, should be possible to start it as it does need choke anyway to be started at this cold.
Starts fine, runs shit
After motor had warmed up, turned idle rpm screw 2 to 3 turns in, idle mixture screw is bit hard to tell, but maybe 1.5-2.5 turns more open, this took some time to find where it wanted to idle best, idle rpm might still be bit high, don't know how much it really is as can't remember how much error there was in rpm gauge, I think there was some, even not very much. Anyway it idles now better, might be still bit lean as it shakes a bit and does not run perfectly smooth, need meter to adjust it to final setting, 1.5 maybe even 2, somewhere there it should work best.
Then adjusted choke vacuum thingy (I did settle to 2.8mm even 2.7mm would be correct setting, might tune it more later) and also choke rpm (1mm gap):
Good thing was that I could not see leaks this time, at least not from cam area, other places are harder to see but at least not very wet there either. Made quck ramps with two bricks and planks of wood, drove it to those as thought oil change being good idea, oil has seen maybe 4000km, but it is from 2005
There under the car it hits me that I never got around to get square key for oil sump plug, also it seems to be that my other tools have different size of square pieces, there is nothing compatible, house's window opener had wrong size too. I guess it is time to invest some tool, also would be good idea to get few washers for oil sump plug.
Then while under the car did notice some rust problem and it remainded me what my mechanic told, it was indeed some structural box near front fender that is quite ugly state, must get it done by proffesional welder, so it would last and go trough a MOT without any problems. Might cost few hundred to get fixed, annoying and expensive, but there is no much choice if I'm going to drive 360 some day.
Found also good box for bolts, so they don't get lost, it is not very new, it is candy box from Soviet Union
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