The clutch should slide onto the splines quite easily and i'm 99% sure the 360 has its own clutch spline count differing from ALL other volvo redblocks. But pressure plates of the same diameter are interchangeable. Check that the end of the shaft in the car isnt burred over or anything? It doesnt take much to stop it sliding on.
Adam

lets just check somthing -
does the spigot bearing in the back of the engine neeed to be swapped with the one out of the original engine? ie the one behind the circlip and swap it with the one in from the 940 engine?

whats annoying me is the fact ive had the engine in already!

Ben

Just checked according to vadis its the same bearing providing there is one there. If you can compare the inner diameter, so long as its the same its fine.
Adam

well judging by my little pinky they are teh same size. and an 11mm socket is a perfect fit in both of them.
(not said that in a while )

new clutch, new alignment tool, its best swing in first time!

Ben

well it didnt swing in anywhere near first time. but got round to attempting a start today.

first compression, well impressed, engine runs perfectly smooth, idles perfectly at about 300 rpm!

just all the annoying faffing bits now, tidying up wiring up the fuel pump safely.

the fuel pump is a bit high pressure i think (6-9 psi) ive run it into the pressure reg, but im not sure if it will deal with the pressure difference.
any ideas on that?

Ben

well the fuckwit i bought the fuel pump off has sold me a fecked one, just pissed fuel everywhere. so now waiting for him to send out another one

gona try a scrap yard tomrrow see if i can get an easily accessible one off an astra or the rangies they have in there...

Ben

pyro wrote:well the fuckwit i bought the fuel pump off has sold me a fecked one, just pissed fuel everywhere. so now waiting for him to send out another one

gona try a scrap yard tomrrow see if i can get an easily accessible one off an astra or the rangies they have in there...

Ben

There are general fuel pumps for carb cars still available (electric powered), I think mine was under 30, so there probably under 15, just need to choose if it needs to suck or blow, if in engine bay then it needs to suck.

Ahem, not suck badly or blow up

well i got one of ebay for 20
andrew pages wanted 130 quid for one.
fitted it today and it worked after i took it appart twice

problems
it seems pretty unbalanced at idle, its shaking about all over the place...
revs pick up fine, seems good on power, but definatly needs the carb tweaking for the best out of it..

Ben

So engine in, ive covered about 120 miles with it, lovely and smooth, a few flat spots but i think its because it has a different cam.

One issue today, the only one im concerned about
oil pressure warning light comes on under 1500 rpm. kinda disconserting it just did it on the overrun to a roundabout. ideas?

Ben

Likely need new bearings,possible grind.

The joys of 2nd hand.

I'd avoid driving it until you find that issue. Any chance it's something to do with a ground? I take it you did check oil and bang a new filter on when the swap was done? Idiot questions but some people are almost as stupid as people like me

aye new oil, new filter, was perfect till on the overrun last night.

there is a steady spurt of oil when i take the cap off at about 1200 rmp, but under that theres nothing, except for a little spray off the cam lobes.

Ben

Pickup pipe/pump installed correctly?

i bloody well hope so, havnt time or space to pull the sump off again!

its strange as it goes of at higher rpm, and it only started on a downhill slope on the overrun.
what could have gone wrong after 150 miles all of a sudden?

when i get it home ill try swapping the pressure switch off the orginal block.

im going to have to drive it, as ive no way of getting it home otherwise, im at uni at the moment.

Ben

Hi guys, not updated this in a while, but figured it may be of some use to people re: swapping track rod ends...

took me 10 mins a piece, easy peasy!

find a spanner that fits the lock nut, i found 1/2" whitworth fits well, try to move by hand and fail. so stick a jack under teh spanner and procede to lift it.

now jack the car up and remove wheel, put on axel stands (remember flat people dont go driving 300's!)

split the ball joint from the steering arm

now the track rod end should just unscrew from the steering rod, if it doesnt then procede to swear repeatedly.

screw the new one on to the same place (it will need to be tracked at some point, but i find this a suitable guide for the time being)

tighten the lock nut up to the ball joint, and insert taper into the steering arm and tighten up.

job done.

easy

except for putting the wheel back on and removing axel stands etc!

probably a good idea to check the state of the spring cups while your under there, along with anything else!

Ben