Ok this isn't the first job I've done on this car, I did some body filler on the doors but did not take any pictures. SO officially this is my first job. Pretty simple, new dizzy cap and HT leads courtesy of classicswede

So first I put the new leads in and started the engine to check they worked:


Rotated the engine to cylinder 1 spark position (rotor arm points up). Removed and applied new rotor arm in same position.
Then put the new cap and rotor on:


It appears I *may* have an oil leak into my dizzy so I'll keep my eye on it for now. So far it runs sweeeeet and I've not got any of the starting problems that I had before. The real test comes tonight when I use it for work

Next up: K&N air filter (when I find one for a reasonable price)

Well, it's better but not fixed. It will still fail to start for quite a few rotations when semi-warm. It seems to go "put put put put put" a bit more now too which is probably ok because I've got no lapse in performance. So far so good considering I've never replaced a dizzy before

good work there dude.

Oil leak into dizzy is common on the 1.7 dude its the rear cam seal that needs replacing.
Adam

Yup, been there. Oil leaking all down the back of the engine - Just call it extra rust proofing

on a haynes "spanner" rating, how hard is it to replace the cam seals? I mean I'm pretty engine savvy but no expert and I don't have a lot of tools if I'm honest (only just buying a torque wrench this weekend after 2 years under bonnets).

Don't think Haynes mention the job specifically, but it doesn't sound too hard (I had my friendly mechanic do mine)

More info here > http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... f=9&t=4709

Thanks MJ. Jesus christ mine doesn't look that bad. I'm guessing my cam seal only has a small hole in it as the oil under there is a very thin layer.

Still enough to screw up the running It's really not a bad job, my bodgery level involved a self tapper to pull the old seal out, then push the new one roughly in, then used a socket to seat it.

Curses! The rear drivers side bolt of the air filter fell out yesterday rendering my roundabout fun useless. Funny though, upon checking the underside (where the bolt comes out underneath) the thread appears to be missing completely. Bodged it currently with a spare nut but it does no good really. What I need is to look at another example of the same engine, which I guess is where sunday comes in

I can't believe there was NOTHING wrong with it. Only advisory was a small exhaust leak! The sill welding didn't need doing officially but I requested it anyway, everything done for a tidy £110 in about 2 hours. Now I'm a very happy man

As opposed to epic failing on emmissions Have a look at the pics I took when you were on track buddy, you were spitting black smoke

Glad she's past, the car looks smart, congrats

Nice one....how did it drive after the carb adjustment? Did you get a printout of the emissions? What was the CO. Glad it passed, that's always a sigh of relief when the MOT man isn't ticking lots of bits of paper

no-one can take my emissions crown away from me though chris - what looked to be white smoke that was actually neat fuel out of the exhaust at idle, and easily maxed out the mot test rig on most values - though tbh I know better and should have sorted it long ago/should sort it properly sometime soon...

pettaw wrote:Nice one....how did it drive after the carb adjustment? Did you get a printout of the emissions? What was the CO. Glad it passed, that's always a sigh of relief when the MOT man isn't ticking lots of bits of paper

Very well if a little bit lean. Think it needs adjusting again though as it stalled twice whilst decelerating tonight

Haven't got the bit of paper on me right now but it was about 1.6% and 118 I think.