How to lower a 360?

Post by **NasoNex** » 10 Dec 2005 09:09 pm

Hi,

I just wondered, how do you lower the rear of the 300?

Are there different ways to do it? And what is the best solution?

Thanks.

Post by **340GLT** » 10 Dec 2005 09:20 pm

Easiest way is to fit lowering blocks between springs and axle.
Cheers Adam

Post by MJ » 10 Dec 2005 11:29 pm

I'm sure it's been put somewhere, but could someone explain exactly how these blocks work. Do they put any extra strain on the springs?

Post by **Ali** » 11 Dec 2005 12:11 am

Nope your effectively just moving the mounting point between the leaf spring and the axel so no extra strain on the spring, I don't think you can go any/much more than 1" though due to something at the back, can't remember what it was though, glt leafs are also lower and stiffer

cheers
Ali

Post by **classicswede** » 11 Dec 2005 01:26 am

This is how to do it

classicswede wrote:While the forum has been off the development of my lowering blocks has finnished with pleasing results.

First off you will need some tools:
Jack, axle stand, wheel brace, 6mm hex key, 17mm spanner, a good half inch drive ratchet with a 17mm flat sided socket (left hand side of pic)

Fist off losen the wheel the jack one side at the rear up and then reve the wheel. Place an axle stand under the car incase of any problems.

Once you have done that the drive shaft needs to be removed from the hub(the diff end does not need to be disturbed).

Now you can get to the spring retaining bolts. Use the 17mm spanner and the 17mm socket to remove the nuts and bolts.

You can now slide the lowering blocks in and reasemble. Make sure you refix the shimes as they are there to reduce rubbing.

Well I must say even though I have loads of weight in the back and with the lowering blocks the front is sitting lower. It looks nice as it is now and I'm sure you guys will love it.

Dai

Post by **huskyracer** » 11 Dec 2005 11:08 am

Nice fitting guide Dai, Just to let you know, you can *just* get the retaining bolts out without taking the driveshaft out. 3 come out easily, the other one can be tapped out past the driveshaft by carefully aligning it to go between the bolts retaining the shaft and drifting it out with a small punch. Its fiddly and a bit crude, but much quicker. Only to be attempted by people with a bit of Knowledge in these matters, as it would be very easy to reck the driveshaft gaiter. If in doubt, do it Dais way!

Post by **NasoNex** » 11 Dec 2005 04:16 pm

Ohh, awesome

Thanks a lot

Post by **haak** » 14 Dec 2005 01:24 am

Du kan bruke 4 kantprofilrør hvis du vil få ned den ufjæra vekta. Readhead på 300power har gjort dette

Nå forstår folka mye...hehe

Post by **NasoNex** » 25 Mar 2006 05:45 pm

Hehe..

I ordered lowering springs for the front today..

Does anyone know if any special tools is needed in order to change them?

Post by **Ali** » 25 Mar 2006 05:55 pm

You'll need spring compressors but other than that I think you just need some sockets and other spanners. Best to follow the Haynes manual. One thing I would suggest, the Haynes says to loosen the radius arm nut so that it gives more flex but I would say remove it where it joins the suspension arm (two bolts on a bar). Otherwise its really hard to get the strut to come outside the front wing,
cheers
Ali

Post by **NasoNex** » 25 Mar 2006 06:06 pm

Hmm. Ok. Then it should be ok.

Hopefully I'll get em in a week or so.

Thanks.

Post by **classicswede** » 26 Mar 2006 01:24 pm

If you do not have compressers then you can cut the springs to release the tension.

Post by **Wanna GLT** » 10 Apr 2006 09:28 pm

On the other hand you can do it the way it always used to be done in the old days; lowering blocks are just a cop-out from doing the job properly.

Simply remove the leaf springs, take them along to your local blacksmith (plenty around these days with the upsurge in horse-riding), and have him retemper them.

My dad had it done with the old Morris Traveller, and when building a Fairthorpe many moons ago.

Post by **340GLT** » 10 Apr 2006 09:46 pm

I think this is what Nev did to his and it weakened the springs and they snapped? I my be wrong though.
Adam

Post by **Wanna GLT** » 10 Apr 2006 10:14 pm

340GLT wrote:I think this is what Nev did to his and it weakened the springs and they snapped? I my be wrong though.
Adam

Perhaps he didn't have them done professionally, or the guy doing the job was inexperienced?

It's a proper forge job; I remember being taken along to see it done when I was a little kid - it takes a long time and is fascinating when you're young; when you're older I think you just admire the skill involved and the pride in doing a job properly.

Anyhow, my dad never had a problem with his cars, and if I get myself a 360 soon, I'm sure I'll go that route.