300 Wheel Bearings
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9143
- Joined: 11 Nov 2008 04:22 pm
- Location: Newcastle Upon Toon
300 Wheel Bearings
OppLock needs some rear wheel bearings.
From my research it seems that the same part were used on 340s and 360s?
^can someone shoot holes in the above statement please?
Cheers all
From my research it seems that the same part were used on 340s and 360s?
^can someone shoot holes in the above statement please?
Cheers all
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
no holes shot in that statement from what i remember.
there are (i think) differences between the various years of the 300s though.
Ben
there are (i think) differences between the various years of the 300s though.
Ben
* Disclaimer
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.
Mors Principium Est
Now a proud member of YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club
One of the above statements may or may not be true - but probably not.
Mors Principium Est
Now a proud member of YCHJCYA2PDTHFH club
-
- Posts: 1921
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008 09:35 pm
- Location: Netherlands.
- Contact:
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
there are 3 different types:
1.4, 1.7, 1.6D chassisno <120999
2-litre versions chassisno <120999
all versions chassisno >121000
chassisno 121000 was roughly the start of modelyear 86, with the mk3 facelift, so; depending on the year they are interchangable for 340/360, the 3 different types above are not interchangable as all hubs/setups are different
1.4, 1.7, 1.6D chassisno <120999
2-litre versions chassisno <120999
all versions chassisno >121000
chassisno 121000 was roughly the start of modelyear 86, with the mk3 facelift, so; depending on the year they are interchangable for 340/360, the 3 different types above are not interchangable as all hubs/setups are different
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 9143
- Joined: 11 Nov 2008 04:22 pm
- Location: Newcastle Upon Toon
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
volvodspec wrote:there are 3 different types:
1.4, 1.7, 1.6D chassisno <120999
2-litre versions chassisno <120999
all versions chassisno >121000
chassisno 121000 was roughly the start of modelyear 86, with the mk3 facelift, so; depending on the year they are interchangable for 340/360, the 3 different types above are not interchangable as all hubs/setups are different
brilliant Anjo.
many thanks.
just saved me shipping useless parts to New Zealand.
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
Just been doing some refurb on mine was going to post a full series on it but havn't gotten around to full reassembly yet. Highlights;
Inner Shaft can be pushed out with puller, but takes part of the bearing with it.
Part bearing shell (inner) needs to be cut/ground carefully from the hub shaft, it will crack once thin enough. Take your time.
Bearing can be hammered (heavily-sledge hammer job) out of the alloy hub casing with suitably sized socket, probably hotter the better but I didn't try heating for removal (didn't want grease all over my oven).
For reassembly, put hub case in oven (+180C), and bearing in freezer (-19C), for about 30mins. Coat bearing surface in grease and drop straight in, ready with hammer if necessary. Allow to cool.
You'll need new circlips.
I think 360s have mostly been all the same, my 83 one was the same as my 87 one, generally indicated by the large lump on the outside of the hub for centering the wheel (ish). (edit to say , I think my 83 one must have had a axle replacement)
Inner Shaft can be pushed out with puller, but takes part of the bearing with it.
Part bearing shell (inner) needs to be cut/ground carefully from the hub shaft, it will crack once thin enough. Take your time.
Bearing can be hammered (heavily-sledge hammer job) out of the alloy hub casing with suitably sized socket, probably hotter the better but I didn't try heating for removal (didn't want grease all over my oven).
For reassembly, put hub case in oven (+180C), and bearing in freezer (-19C), for about 30mins. Coat bearing surface in grease and drop straight in, ready with hammer if necessary. Allow to cool.
You'll need new circlips.
I think 360s have mostly been all the same, my 83 one was the same as my 87 one, generally indicated by the large lump on the outside of the hub for centering the wheel (ish). (edit to say , I think my 83 one must have had a axle replacement)
Last edited by Ride_on on 16 Jul 2015 12:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
^Nice post.. I'll be needing to do that sometime soon and that helps
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
I've edited it to say 'shaft' can be pushed out with a puller, use the same job you used to pull off the CV flange but hook it onto the aluminium hub/bearing case (this may be easier if the hub is removed from the axle..more tricky bolts, need allen key or hex drive bit with spanner). It doesn't need a huge amount of force to break the bearing apart. Getting a puller to fit to remove the flange can be tricky, a well fitting one may not be strong enough, heat and tapping will help aswell.
Also worth noting is a technique for removing the CV joint bolts, they can be pretty tough. I use a crow bar hooked into the wheel studs to brace against the ground, then a 10mm hex socket (ie 6 sided) with a 3/8" drive. 1/4" is too weak, and 1/2" is too big to fit in around the rubber boot.
The crow bar in the wheel studs is also useful for removing the large 30mm nut that secures the CV flange. This is also a difference with old 340s, they use a 36mm nut I think, which can be hard to get a socket for unless you go to 3/4" drive.
Also worth noting is a technique for removing the CV joint bolts, they can be pretty tough. I use a crow bar hooked into the wheel studs to brace against the ground, then a 10mm hex socket (ie 6 sided) with a 3/8" drive. 1/4" is too weak, and 1/2" is too big to fit in around the rubber boot.
The crow bar in the wheel studs is also useful for removing the large 30mm nut that secures the CV flange. This is also a difference with old 340s, they use a 36mm nut I think, which can be hard to get a socket for unless you go to 3/4" drive.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
Hi ride_on
Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?
Cheers
Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?
Cheers
Volvo 360 GLT saloon - (RIP old mate)
Volvo 343 R-sport No. 5 - 1981 - Restored and back on the road
http://www.volvo300.dk (soon updated with restoration pics)
Volvo 343 R-sport No. 5 - 1981 - Restored and back on the road
http://www.volvo300.dk (soon updated with restoration pics)
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
Sorry, not sure what you mean. The bearing is held in place by friction and the circlip.volvo300 wrote:Hi ride_on
Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?
The CV joint flange+outer wheel stud shaft sort of plays a part in holding the bearing inner together, I guess you mean this. It is tricky but I used a 2 legged medium puller (from a set of 3), getting one that fits in the axle box section but is strong enough is the tricky bit. You may need to re-assemble the puller legs to minimise the width and get it close enough. The legs are reversible and have 2 length positions so you have 4 options.
I don't have the parts assembled at the moment, and its a one way trip to push the outer shaft into the bearing, but I have partly assembled them in a representative form for illustration.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
-
- *** V3M DONOR ***
- Posts: 4398
- Joined: 06 Jan 2007 02:38 pm
- Location: Bonn, Germany
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
Slight thread-jack here, but it seemed like a good place to post my question:
one of the studs snapped when I was fitting the winter tyres:
Are they easy to replace? I'm guessing: remove the drum and hammer the broken stud backwards off the hub.
Cheers
Tom
one of the studs snapped when I was fitting the winter tyres:
Are they easy to replace? I'm guessing: remove the drum and hammer the broken stud backwards off the hub.
Cheers
Tom
343 GL Touring B14.1E CVT (155) 98000kms 1980 (sold)
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
343 L Junior B14.3E MT4 (155) 229000kms 1981 (scrapped)
343 DLS B19A MT4 (155) 167900kms 1982
360 GL Injection B200F MT5 (231) 348598kms 1988 (scrapped)
360 GLT B200F MT5 (302) 230000kms 1988
-
- Posts: 1921
- Joined: 06 Dec 2008 09:35 pm
- Location: Netherlands.
- Contact:
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
you wish
hammering the broken one out might work, but there isn't enough space to get the new one in.
best way to get it out is to remove the hub shaft, that involves the setup on the pic above yours, including a torch...
hammering the broken one out might work, but there isn't enough space to get the new one in.
best way to get it out is to remove the hub shaft, that involves the setup on the pic above yours, including a torch...
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
Hi ride_on.
It's this collar I'm talking about.
How did you remove that?
BTW, Thanks for great pics
Cheers.
Peter
It's this collar I'm talking about.
How did you remove that?
BTW, Thanks for great pics
Cheers.
Peter
Ride_on wrote:Sorry, not sure what you mean. The bearing is held in place by friction and the circlip.volvo300 wrote:Hi ride_on
Do you have any pics of how you removed the bearing collar from the hub?
The one that I'm talking about is the collar which holds the bearing in place in the hub!
How did you remove this collar?
The CV joint flange+outer wheel stud shaft sort of plays a part in holding the bearing inner together, I guess you mean this. It is tricky but I used a 2 legged medium puller (from a set of 3), getting one that fits in the axle box section but is strong enough is the tricky bit. You may need to re-assemble the puller legs to minimise the width and get it close enough. The legs are reversible and have 2 length positions so you have 4 options.
I don't have the parts assembled at the moment, and its a one way trip to push the outer shaft into the bearing, but I have partly assembled them in a representative form for illustration.
Volvo 360 GLT saloon - (RIP old mate)
Volvo 343 R-sport No. 5 - 1981 - Restored and back on the road
http://www.volvo300.dk (soon updated with restoration pics)
Volvo 343 R-sport No. 5 - 1981 - Restored and back on the road
http://www.volvo300.dk (soon updated with restoration pics)
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
It doesn't look like a 360 bearing. Are you sure its a separate part, try cleaning it to see if its part of the aluminium bearing housing. It could be the spacer in the old 360 bearing, apparently you should drive that out with the bearing using a drift (after applying some heat). Do you have parts of the bearing still in the housing?
The 360 bearings are much simpler, just a sealed bearing and a circlip, the older cars have all sorts of separate seals. The Haynes manual says 360s pre 86 had the extra seals but, my 83 360 has the simple later arrangement with the labyrinth gland same as my 87 car so I think this is incorrect. It doesn't have any diagrams for 340s.
The 340 instructions just say to drive out the bearing from each side using a drift after heating the housing.
The 360 bearings are much simpler, just a sealed bearing and a circlip, the older cars have all sorts of separate seals. The Haynes manual says 360s pre 86 had the extra seals but, my 83 360 has the simple later arrangement with the labyrinth gland same as my 87 car so I think this is incorrect. It doesn't have any diagrams for 340s.
The 340 instructions just say to drive out the bearing from each side using a drift after heating the housing.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
In other words you may need to replace the bearing in order to fix the stud. The manual says something about using Volvo tool 5433 and 5434 to remove the 'bearing cup from the drive flange', but it has already stated how to remove the drive flange, I think it might mean the wheel flange, and so you might be able to remove the inner part of the bearing and not damage the bearing when disassembling using this, instead of my method above of grind cutting off the stuck on part and replacing the bearing. Study the diagrams above to confirm what I mean by the drive flange and wheel flange.volvodspec wrote:you wish
hammering the broken one out might work, but there isn't enough space to get the new one in.
best way to get it out is to remove the hub shaft, that involves the setup on the pic above yours, including a torch...
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7
Re: 300 Wheel Bearings
Hi ride_on.
The bearing housing comes of a 1981 Volvo 343 DLS (B19A).
I suspect it's similar to the one in my R-sport (343-GLS).
I'll see what I can do the that 'collar'... I think it's the one Haynes is calling 'spacer'.
Haynes just say "remove the spacer, but it has been there for almost 30 years, so it might not be willing to leave
On the other hand, I have a set of brand new bearing housings (1986 an onwards) with bearings and axles, but the axles are pressed into the bearings....
How do I get the axles out without breaking the new bearings installed in the housing?
Can I just tap the axles out???
BTW, thanks for great pics and quick reply
Cheers.
Peter
The bearing housing comes of a 1981 Volvo 343 DLS (B19A).
I suspect it's similar to the one in my R-sport (343-GLS).
I'll see what I can do the that 'collar'... I think it's the one Haynes is calling 'spacer'.
Haynes just say "remove the spacer, but it has been there for almost 30 years, so it might not be willing to leave
On the other hand, I have a set of brand new bearing housings (1986 an onwards) with bearings and axles, but the axles are pressed into the bearings....
How do I get the axles out without breaking the new bearings installed in the housing?
Can I just tap the axles out???
BTW, thanks for great pics and quick reply
Cheers.
Peter
Volvo 360 GLT saloon - (RIP old mate)
Volvo 343 R-sport No. 5 - 1981 - Restored and back on the road
http://www.volvo300.dk (soon updated with restoration pics)
Volvo 343 R-sport No. 5 - 1981 - Restored and back on the road
http://www.volvo300.dk (soon updated with restoration pics)