Front disc upgrade

Front axle, springs, shock absorbers, wheels, bearings, calipers, drums...
Tuning: suspension, discs, alloys upgrade...
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filthyjohn
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Re: Front disc upgrade

Post by filthyjohn » 03 Nov 2010 07:02 am

I'm afraid you can't fit a vented disc to the standard caliper unless you're happy to grind off about half of the friction material from each pad. Drilling, grooves and dimples make no difference to the width of the disc, but venting will add at least 8-10mm. That picture on the black diamond box above will be a stock generic photo, not necessarily a 300 disc.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

Ride_on
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Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: Front disc upgrade

Post by Ride_on » 03 Nov 2010 12:33 pm

samueljon wrote:360 rear drums are better then??

and those discs on ebay are they straight fit on 340 calipers?
also is there a brake pad upgrade??

Yes, they are bigger and have a stronger mechanism, just make sure the bearing housing fits the axle (some early ones are small), and later ones cannot be disassembled (wheel flange/axle shaft cannot be removed) without changing the bearing. Although I have posted a method for changing the bearing. ie take the full bearing housing+axleshaft+brake assembly, removing only the drive flange and bearing housing nuts (and cables+pipes). Handbrake cable connection might be different.

Yes, all 300 front brakes are the same after 1979.

Yes, there seems to be a few options for front pads, Mintex, EBC are ones I've come across. I've seen colour coded ones for different race levels, not sure if that was EBC or another one.

But to be honest a good stage 0 brake tune should be adequate for hard driving, even on a 360, but only just. If you have cheap/old/worn parts you will suffer fade.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

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Chris_C
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Re: Front disc upgrade

Post by Chris_C » 03 Nov 2010 03:16 pm

Ride_on wrote:
samueljon wrote:360 rear drums are better then??

and those discs on ebay are they straight fit on 340 calipers?
also is there a brake pad upgrade??

Yes, they are bigger and have a stronger mechanism, just make sure the bearing housing fits the axle (some early ones are small), and later ones cannot be disassembled (wheel flange/axle shaft cannot be removed) without changing the bearing. Although I have posted a method for changing the bearing. ie take the full bearing housing+axleshaft+brake assembly, removing only the drive flange and bearing housing nuts (and cables+pipes). Handbrake cable connection might be different.
I just changed the entire axle, and bolt the driveshafts up to the 360 hubs. Handbrake cable is different, you need to move the back handbrake cable bracket by something like 3/4 inches. For cables use a 1.7 front cable and 360 rear cables (on a 360 they are slightly different lengths, on the 340 it doesn't matter if you have 2 lefts, 2 rights or 1 of each). I'd reccomend changing the "don't lock up my rear brakes please" valve on the inner wing too, though I'm not sure if they are calibrated differently in a 340/60.
Ride_on wrote: Yes, all 300 front brakes are the same after 1979.

Yes, there seems to be a few options for front pads, Mintex, EBC are ones I've come across. I've seen colour coded ones for different race levels, not sure if that was EBC or another one.

But to be honest a good stage 0 brake tune should be adequate for hard driving, even on a 360, but only just. If you have cheap/old/worn parts you will suffer fade.
I've only had one set of EBC's, and wont be having another. I rally mine with either partco's finest (which are variable, whichever friction material was in the machine last sort of thing) or the cheaper Ferrodo's (which are £22 from my local brake specialist). I find fresh fluid to have made the biggest difference to me, I can do a 4 hour rally at pace with no fade on the stock setup and I run wide Eagle F1's so can stop in a scarily short distance. New dot 4 every 6months seems to be the key.
'89(G) 340 GLE B172k
'03 S60 D5 SE, '91 (J) MX5, 1954 Cyclemaster
Ex:
'89(F) 340 GL F7R (ex B172k) - Fake -> SBKV 300 Runner Up 08, 12; '91(H) 340 GL B14.4E - Kar; '88(F) 360 GLT B200E - Jet -> BKV 300 Runner Up 09; '89(G) 360 GLT B200E - Beast

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