Negative camber issues - any ideas

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kelvingenders
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Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 04 Jul 2012 07:39 am

Hi guys, got a wheel alignment done today. Issues are with the left front...negative camber. Anyone experienced this before or fixed a negative camber. Normally happens on the left side. Picture is included. Apparently this will make the front left wear on the inside!!!
Attachments
volvo wheel allignment 2.JPG

Ride_on
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by Ride_on » 04 Jul 2012 10:04 pm

Good comprehensive data there, this is important.

Either the bottom is too far out or the top is too far in.

Problems I've seen
Bent lower swivel ball joint
Cracked and corroded top spring plate (inner bearing support bit) (stopped - full lock changes the steering feel pulls to one side, put the opposite lock and it resets back to normal)
Bent suspension cross member
Bent radius arm mount
Worn top bush

Maybe do a bit of geometry calculations to see how many mm one end needs to be out to get 2deg. I recon about 1.7mm over 50cm strut length. Someone check, havn't done sin 2=x/50 in a while :)

Strip her down and keep us updated!
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
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macplaxton
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by macplaxton » 04 Jul 2012 10:29 pm

SAI? Is that King Pin Inclination in English?

That should be 9 degrees 30 minutes, plus or minus 30 minutes. So between 9 and 10 degrees.

Check the data against that in the green book in case I've got that wrong...
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mac
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by mac » 04 Jul 2012 11:19 pm

SAI = Steering Axis Inclination

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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by macplaxton » 05 Jul 2012 12:35 am

mac wrote:SAI = Steering Axis Inclination
Cheers, I assumed it was, as kingpins went out with the Nelson's eye. :lol: (Mind you, KPI is what the Volvo call it in the book.)
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82 Volvo 343DL CVTImageImage 88 Volvo 340DL Diesel

kelvingenders
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 05 Jul 2012 05:43 am

I will be driving approximately 6km to work...4 miles. should i be worried ? or should I just rotate tyres more frequently

kelvingenders
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 05 Jul 2012 06:33 am

6km per day!!!

kelvingenders
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 05 Jul 2012 11:12 am

lowerssuspension arm.JPG
After speaking to the tyre technician Carlos, he tells me it's the lower suspension arm causing me the problem ( number 6 on the diagram) bit on the passenger side. He said that If I could machine the hole to be adjusted i.e. make it move 3 mm to the centre of the vehicle on the cross member, this would align the wheel correctly. As easy as that!!!!!

kelvingenders
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 05 Jul 2012 11:16 am

Dear Ride on...Every ball joint, bush (except top mounting) was replaced. I'm assuming it been involved in an accident with a kerb before. Still drives like a treat......the glory days in Burton-on-Trent circa 1990
What is the
"Cracked and corroded top spring plate (inner bearing support bit) (stopped - full lock changes the steering feel pulls to one side, put the opposite lock and it resets back to normal)"
Nedd to check this out

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Chris_C
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by Chris_C » 05 Jul 2012 12:39 pm

I think Ride On is on about the issue in this post

http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-uk/v ... 20#p149329
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 05 Jul 2012 01:55 pm

Top plates were all in reasonable condition. got them from wreckers and refitted

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volvodspec
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by volvodspec » 05 Jul 2012 08:01 pm

kelvingenders wrote: Image
After speaking to the tyre technician Carlos, he tells me it's the lower suspension arm causing me the problem ( number 6 on the diagram) bit on the passenger side. He said that If I could machine the hole to be adjusted i.e. make it move 3 mm to the centre of the vehicle on the cross member, this would align the wheel correctly. As easy as that!!!!!
i think that it's not "6" that's causing the problem but "10", those rear brackets have the nasty habit of corroding and rusting away. i can very much imagine that this will screw up the alignment.

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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by Ride_on » 05 Jul 2012 09:05 pm

Yes I was talking about the top plate as Chris's link shows.

Volvospec, 10 is the clutch cable but I guess you mean the radius arm mounting, either loose or its not sitting right. As the bolt tighten up it pulls the arm shoulder onto the plate. If its not tight metal-metal that will not help, or the mounting can be distorted. You could check by measuring the wheel-wheel centre on each side of the car. It would have to be alot further out to affect the camber, seems it should affect other measurements like the castor, so I'm thinking maybe its not that.

Are the ball joint mounting bolts accurate? Are the bolts the right size locating it correctly?

Try some comparative measurements from either side on the bottom arm length, say ball joint to crossmember.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

kelvingenders
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010 08:40 am

Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 05 Jul 2012 10:06 pm

Will be checking this out in the month to come. Depends on how bad the tyre wear is

kelvingenders
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Re: Negative camber issues - any ideas

Post by kelvingenders » 06 Jul 2012 08:53 am

Hardly any rust on brackets at 10. this is Queensland. It's sunny most days and they don't use salt on the roads.

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