Rear spring shackle bushes

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wolfpack
Posts: 41
Joined: 16 Dec 2011 02:07 pm

Rear spring shackle bushes

Post by wolfpack » 05 Feb 2013 10:42 pm

http://www.classicswede.co.uk/Rear_spri ... 14059.aspx

how the hell do i do it with out spending all day crying cos it look fucking hard to do ?

Ride_on
Posts: 2262
Joined: 26 May 2009 05:34 pm
Location: Belfast, N. Ireland

Re: Rear spring shackle bushes

Post by Ride_on » 05 Feb 2013 11:43 pm

Long threaded bar, a few nuts and thick washers and a socket wider than the bush. Pull it through from one side until one of them can be pulled out by hand or gripped and twisted out by mole grips, then pull the other through the other side.
1980 345 DL_______1987 360 GLE (project car restored to GLT spec and B230FT'd)
1984 360 GLT______1987 360 GLT
1983 360 GLS______1989 360 GLE
1985 340 GL_______1986 340 1.4
1985 360 GLS______1995 940 SE 2.3 Turbo Estate (daily)
1987 340 GL 1.7

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Alvo360
Posts: 6
Joined: 25 Feb 2018 02:48 am

Re: Rear spring shackle bushes

Post by Alvo360 » 30 Apr 2018 10:44 am

I just want to post my experience with removing the rear shackle bushes, just in case it will assist someone in the future.

I am in Australia and have a RHD volvo 360.

The right hand side requires the black plug from the spare wheel well to be removed, and the left hand side on will be easier if you either remove the rear exhaust section or just disconnect the rubber exhaust hangers and flex it out of the way...carefully.

I actually got a razor blade and cut the inner bushing ends off (the one closes to the spare wheel well). this will expose the metal insert running through the bushing. I then used my vice-grips to twist the metal inset/bushing left and right (clockwise/anti-clockwise) to break its seal and then used the vice grips to twist and lever at the same time. It took about 30 seconds before they came out. I used some silicone spray to help guide it out, but any spray lubricant will be fine. once one end is removed, I used a bit of long steel rod to tap the other one out the other side.

Obviously the bushing you cut cannot be re-used.

To fit new ones, as suggested above, You get some large washes and threaded rod and nuts to suit. I bought 12mm threaded rod which fit in the centre of the bush when I checked for clearance, but when its being pressed into its mounting, the centre of the bushing will compress, restrict the hole size and clamping the rod. I found 10mm threaded rod to be suitable.

I also did the control arm bushes and I used a friends 8 tonne press to push those b@$tards out and in. The bushes compress in the middle and distort like nothing else. You have to lever with a screw driver, or something of the likes, as you press it in. not an exciting job :360:

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