Lowering.

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kaos
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Lowering.

Post by kaos » 26 Jan 2009 10:29 pm

Hi guys. so im finaly on the lowering section of my 340.

Has anyone got any tips/tricks for undoing the drive shaft bolts? ive got the 6mm hex, and well sofar the only bolt ive idealy touched just spins out/rounds internally. now i dont want to push it too far and reck them all . but anyone got any ideas?

Its possible that these are still original drive shafts! so could be well siezed i guess


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340GLT
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Re: Lowering.

Post by 340GLT » 27 Jan 2009 12:16 am

They only round because you didnt drive the allen bit in far enough. Soak them in WD40 if they fail with allen bits. I know an Irwin easy out will remove them.
Adam
F559 LFE - 340R 2.0 16v
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kaos
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Re: Lowering.

Post by kaos » 27 Jan 2009 12:30 am

ah. so the old hammer. stick the bit in smack the crap out of it and work it?
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filthyjohn
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Re: Lowering.

Post by filthyjohn » 27 Jan 2009 02:16 am

Yeah some WD40/plusgas, a good scrape with a nail or similar, then put a GOOD QUALITY 6mm key in, it should only need a light tap to seat properly. I use a halfords pro 3/8"drive hex-socket dealy, seems to be a lot tougher than ordinary allen keys which can be soft enough to wimp out when the going gets torquey.
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'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
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kaos
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Re: Lowering.

Post by kaos » 27 Jan 2009 07:21 pm

ive got a set of clark ones, 3/8 in to a half inch drive bar,

i'll have a look when i got the car up on the 2 poster
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filthyjohn
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Re: Lowering.

Post by filthyjohn » 28 Jan 2009 12:05 pm

2 poster? You're spoilt :P
I have to remove a wheel and lean in. Actually, thinking about it, access to the outer CV is better that way than from the middle of the car underneath.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

kaos
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Re: Lowering.

Post by kaos » 28 Jan 2009 08:32 pm

my local garage, is run by a distantish cousin, so i ring up and just say " hi adrian, how bussy are you friday " "oh good well book me in for the day on the ramp and an mot!"

and voila i have full access.

heck when i had to cut the bolts on the engine i had, i was just given free range of the oxy acetlyne to cut them off!


still i'll be getting a ramp me self once the units are built unless i loose my jobs between now and then!
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filthyjohn
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Re: Lowering.

Post by filthyjohn » 29 Jan 2009 02:07 am

That's cool, I really want a lift, and am chasing a unit that supposedly has one already. But for lowering blocks you're probably better off on the deck.
'87 Nissan Sunny
'95 945 LPT
'90 340 3dr
'87 360 GLT
'87 765 TIC
'75 Manta A
'70 Rover P5 V8
'67 MGB GT
'62 amazon 2dr

kaos
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Joined: 09 Jul 2007 10:34 pm
Location: Somerset

Re: Lowering.

Post by kaos » 29 Jan 2009 08:00 pm

i dunno,

I noticed, when i had my two halves seperate that lifting the axle moved it out of place with one side still bolted. so with both at the same time should be loads better! but we'll find out i guess.

im waiting on a unit to be built, which i should be getting my own ramp, and possibly an emissions tester. maybe some other bits n pieces.
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WooDooUK
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Re: Lowering.

Post by WooDooUK » 30 Jan 2009 03:01 pm

I did exactly the same on one of my drive shaft bolts. I ended up putting a load of Weld on the bolt and smacking a socket on it and undid it with that,

Basicly as everyone else has said, quality hex bit, good clean with a wire brush, i also replaced my bolts with new ones just in case i have to get them off again to make it easier.

Oh and after your all done check the bolts and give them another quick tweak couple of weeks later as a couple of mine had come loose!

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Re: Lowering.

Post by classicswede » 31 Jan 2009 09:43 pm

You need to use an allen socket not the keys as they flex to much. You can also tap teh socket in to make sure it goes fully home.

The 360's have 10mm bolt heads rather than allen sockets
Dai

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